Ok. A few little problems...

Hi guys,

I have a couple problems with my 2000 plate 4.6 P38, and thought I would try to combine them in one thread rather than spamming the forum with multiple threads, but I can do that if you think it will help better, or keep things neater.

Anyway, I am not particularly mechanically minded, but can do stuff with proper instruction, preferably if that instruction comes with pictures to show where I am meant to be looking. I have no idea where the vacuum hose is, or what it looks like, or what it is meant to do for example (for fixing cruise, see later).

I do have RAVE, and have searched it, but cannot find what I'm looking for. I have searched on here too, but generally either my google-foo fails me, or most problems are solved on the first attempt, where mine doesn't, and I need further investigation (Fuse 17 and windows not set, see later).

Thanks.

Anyway, here is the list.

Problem 1:

Fuse 17 keeps on blowing.

Now this has been an issue for a while. I had previously asked about it in this thread:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/fuse-17-keeps-blowing-218743.html

And I changed out the brake switch sensor thingy just the other day, replaced the fuse, drove a few hundred metres, and the fuse blew again. So I guess it wasn't that. So where do I look next? The connection with the switch looked okay, but any other method of checking the wiring?

Problem 2:

Drivers window not set.

Now this one is quite annoying. And again, has been present for a wee while. I tried the procedure where you open the window fully and keep pressing the button for 4 seconds, then closing it fully, keeping the button pressed for 4 seconds again, but to no avail. It is just not setting. It makes an awful noise when fully up, like there is a cog just worn away and slipping on something when you keep it pressed. And the window doesn't fully shut as I get a helluva noise when I go over 55 mph.

So what would be the next port of call here?

Problem 3:

Rear Passenger Bulb Blown.

Except it's not. But generally after about 3 flashes, this message shows up, the indicator clicks double time, and the brake light apparently goes with it. While the dash shows this message, along with the light for the trailer (I think) flashing too.

Any ideas?

Problem 4:

Cruise aint working.

Not really too worried about this, although I would use it a lot if it were working, but are there any simple checks I could do? Please bear in mind I really don't know what individual hoses etc... are, or where they are located. I can check stuff if I am given a guide, but would ideally want pictures showing where I am meant to be looking.

Problem 5:

Drivers heated seat not working.

Again, not really too bothered about this, and don't particularly need to be spending money trying to fix it, but if there are a few simple checks I could do to find the problem, I could at least decide if it's worth it or not to fix.

Thats about it for now. There are other issues, but I think they will require proper mechanics / painters to fix. These are the ones I would like to have a bash at before I decide to just put it in somewhere to fix them.

Thanks for hanging in there and bearing with me. And any help would be much appreciated.

Drivers window not set.

Now this one is quite annoying. And again, has been present for a wee while. I tried the procedure where you open the window fully and keep pressing the button for 4 seconds, then closing it fully, keeping the button pressed for 4 seconds again, but to no avail. It is just not setting. It makes an awful noise when fully up, like there is a cog just worn away and slipping on something when you keep it pressed. And the window doesn't fully shut as I get a helluva noise when I go over 55 mph.

So what would be the next port of call here?

New window regulator needed

Ok. Thanks for that. Will get on it.

xs2man said:

Drivers window not set.

Now this one is quite annoying. And again, has been present for a wee while. I tried the procedure where you open the window fully and keep pressing the button for 4 seconds, then closing it fully, keeping the button pressed for 4 seconds again, but to no avail. It is just not setting. It makes an awful noise when fully up, like there is a cog just worn away and slipping on something when you keep it pressed. And the window doesn't fully shut as I get a helluva noise when I go over 55 mph.

You've answered your own question. When the window gets to the end of it's travel the motor keeps going but can't keep winding so starts to draw more power. The extra power draw is detected and the motor is cut off. If the mechanism isn't stopping then the motor isn't drawing extra power. You need a new mechanism, known as a regulator. It's fiddly but not difficult to fit.

Rear Passenger Bulb Blown.

Except it's not. But generally after about 3 flashes, this message shows up, the indicator clicks double time, and the brake light apparently goes with it. While the dash shows this message, along with the light for the trailer (I think) flashing too.

Any ideas?

There is something that is causing a bad connection. It could be the bulb, is it the correct bulb? I've known the wrong bulb to be forced in. It could be a loose connector in the bulb holder or a bit of corrosion somewhere close by.

Drivers heated seat not working.

Again, not really too bothered about this, and don't particularly need to be spending money trying to fix it, but if there are a few simple checks I could do to find the problem, I could at least decide if it's worth it or not to fix.

This is usually caused by the heater wires breaking inside the seat. Simply repaired but it means taking the seat apart and wielding a soldering iron.

Click to expand...

I've left your fuse and cruise issues for a petrol head to pick up.

Cruise............. may be worth checking the rubber pipe at the rear of EAS Box a simple check there may reveal a split pipe.

Heated seat......... most likely a break in the wire in seat base again a common fault and from what others have said in previous posts not worth the bother to fix. To confirm you will find the heated seat connectors under the seat and get the meter on it to check for continuity

Problem 3:

Rear Passenger Bulb Blown.

Except it's not. But generally after about 3 flashes, this message shows up, the indicator clicks double time, and the brake light apparently goes with it. While the dash shows this message, along with the light for the trailer (I think) flashing too.

Sounds like a bad earth wire on the rear light cluster.
I.D. the earth wire and attach a piece of wire to it and then the chassis, see if that cures it.

your window problem will be the window regulator. as for the electrical stuff, no idea! the regulator is the aluminuim frame the glass sits on. they wear and bend so its not adjusing. new one is about 25quid.

oh and the heated seats are a common failiure. its the elerment in the seat. you want heated seats get a hot water bottle lol

Excellent guys. Thanks a lot. I'm near the local Land Rover dealer tomorrow so will get a quote on the regulator for them to save hunting about if it's not too expensive.

Will check the earth on the indicator too. Hopefully that'll fix that.

The Fuse 17 issue is a right pain though, anybody got any ideas on that?

It feels like I'm driving a French / Italian car with all these electrical gremlins.

I fixed my cruise and put some pics up here. Super easy and the parts cost about £2.

Where did you get the parts? And do you have part numbers?

I went to LR dealer today and they were pretty clueless about what hoses I needed. But they were also pretty darned expensive at around £25+vat each. Certainly not a couple quid, lol.

Also, the regulator is expensive from LR. £180 + vat. Think that'll be an ebay special.

Are Emmots any good then? If they are well trusted, I might just use them, even if they are a few quid dearer.

No part numbers, I bought 1 metre of this hose (6mm hose) from ebay and cut the two bits I needed with a Stanley Knife. If you check the pipes on yours you should be able to see easily if they're cracked. They hoses just pull off so no special tools required. Oh, I have about 0.8 metres of hose left over.

xs2man said:

Where did you get the parts? And do you have part numbers?

I went to LR dealer today and they were pretty clueless about what hoses I needed. But they were also pretty darned expensive at around £25+vat each. Certainly not a couple quid, lol.

Also, the regulator is expensive from LR. £180 + vat. Think that'll be an ebay special.

Are Emmots any good then? If they are well trusted, I might just use them, even if they are a few quid dearer.

Click to expand...

For the window regulator try Island 4 x 4 or Ebay. Vacuum pipe for the cruise is available on Ebay
Heated seats are a waste of time, fix them and they will just fail again.

Cheers.

Regulator and piping ordered.

Also forgot in my original list. The fuel flap is no longer closing. The little pin is stuck in the open position. Is this likely a solenoid or something? Would this be an easy fix?

xs2man said:

Cheers.

Regulator and piping ordered.

Also forgot in my original list. The fuel flap is no longer closing. The little pin is stuck in the open position. Is this likely a solenoid or something? Would this be an easy fix?

Click to expand...

Take the trim off in the boot and have a look. Probably just needs lubrication.

Get your regulator from ebay lr will be horendous
The blub sounds like an earth problem

Cheers guys. All this help is much appreciated, and will try to get it all done asap.

Now the main thing that annoys me is the Fuse 17 blowing constantly though. As every time I start the car, it beeps like an 90's Techno Rave at me.

As I said, changed the brake switch, then the fuse, that didn't help. Anybody have any ideas? Or will I have to take it to a specialist.

F17 Powers the ABS ECU, HEVAC and the EAS ECU up to 99MY
Using a process of Elimination - unplug one of the above and try again...if it blows plug it back in and try the next one until you find which one or combination thereof that blows the fuse and which don't...


On 99 onwards it only powers the ABS ECU....so time to look there !

EDIT:

Noticed yours is 2000 so ABS Ecu only....there is a Resistor in line to earth from F17...if this resistor is duff and shorted out to earth, that will blow the Fuse!

Cheers. Any idea where this resistor is located?

Cheers for the link Speedyyellow, pipe came today, and cruise is now working.

Bought a wee Polo for more economic daily duties, so been busy working on that last few days. So will order the regulator next week.

Wicked, glad it worked for you too.