oil consumption

She's back up and running. Little rough to start with some light knocking but i took her for a spin and she settled down.

Saturday we went for a 220km drive and she still consumed 1l of oil but she does run quieter than before and manages hills a little better so things have improved. I think my injection pully is a tooth out, compensated for by the pump being rotated to its maximum away from the engine so I'm going to re-adjust that very shortly. It's a little rough starting from cold at the moment and now wont easily pass 70mph so I'm thinking the tweaking of the fuel is needed. Used Flat's thread as a guide http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f54/help-tuning-2-5na-i-dont-mean-power-tuning-230139.html

I've also noticed I still get the odd dribble on the rocker cover from the filler cap so I'm going to replace a kinked breather pipe and I'll take the vortex thing off and give it a clean. I'm hoping it isn't piston rings but if all this other stuff plus servicing the injectors doesn't solve the oil consumption I'll plan for an engine re-build next year....

Did you paint it, looks well clean!!!

Yeah, whilst it was off and clean thru being covered in paraffin I gave it a fresh coat of duck egg blue enamel. I've done a rough job painting it so its come out well considering. Only problem was the fan cowling needed a fresh coat of paint to match so its going back on shortly.

Much better after this weekend. Moved the injection pully round a tooth and re tightened timing belt. Got it all back together and loosened the three bolts and bracket off the pump, started with it turned round towards the engine 4mm. Fired up much easier but smoked black, so kept nudging it round and driving it toll it felt right. It now runs even quieter but I haven't had chance to try it at top speed yet for the 70mph test.

I've noticed even less white - bluish smoke than before, is it possible bad injector timing could cause oil consumption / rocker pressure?

Have just bought a new cyclone bit for the breather system as that's my next move, just in case its not working right causing oil vapour to be burnt in combustion. Luckily found a new old stock one on ebay for 14 quid which is the correct military part.

cool, mine recently has started to not hit 70 easy, it seems to take about a mile or 3 to get up to 70. sits at 55 no sweat then really slows down. it will get to 70 but soon as a slight inlcine arises it really slows down a lot.

I might fiddle with the pump timing more

Sounds alot like mine. 50 is fine, progresses up to 60 but then anything more takes a while to build up unless going down-hill.

Might leave it alone then! If it ain't broke and all that!

I'll let you know on Friday as I'm going to take mine for a run up the A1 and see how fast it'll go. It used to do 75 on a flat or downhill, I'll be happy with 70.

I saw your posts about adjusting the fueling screw on the side of the pump but I think its a step too far for me. If/When I end up going down the engine re-build route I'll send the pump away for a service of some sorts.

Huddy84 said:

I'll let you know on Friday as I'm going to take mine for a run up the A1 and see how fast it'll go. It used to do 75 on a flat or downhill, I'll be happy with 70.

I saw your posts about adjusting the fueling screw on the side of the pump but I think its a step too far for me. If/When I end up going down the engine re-build route I'll send the pump away for a service of some sorts.

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yeah i nearly ####ed that up. i measured how far out the screw was with a caliper before adjusting it and wrote it on a piece of paper in the garage which then subsequently got lost. When i realised i stopped fiddling and put it back to where i _thought_ it was originally but i have no way to check. I decided to stop fiddling before i broke it. I may get the pump settings etc properly set up at a diesel specialist next MOT time

Ed

flat said:

cool, mine recently has started to not hit 70 easy, it seems to take about a mile or 3 to get up to 70. sits at 55 no sweat then really slows down. it will get to 70 but soon as a slight inlcine arises it really slows down a lot.

I might fiddle with the pump timing more

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Would be worth checking your tappet clearances. Mine were quite a way out at one point and setting them correctly made a big difference to top speed and acceleration.

sp00k said:

Would be worth checking your tappet clearances. Mine were quite a way out at one point and setting them correctly made a big difference to top speed and acceleration.

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Good idea I haven't done them in a year or so

Well she manages 70. Not quite as fast as before but I must be pretty close with pump timing so I may tweak it or I may just leave it. Much less smoke than before and possibly stopped the small dribble of oil from filler cap.

new cyclone to fit next time I get chance and new hose to inlet to be ordered.

MOT passed today with flying colours. Pre-empted the A frame ball joint and front diff pinion seal needing doing. I also asked for a compression test but when I got it back they hadn't bothered and said definitely needs piston rings.

I now just need to decide whether to do just rings or go all out and see about having the whole engine re-done. Rest of the landy is very solid all be it lightly battered so the latter is prob worthwhile.

200tdi upgrade?

Rings and shells and she'll be good for another 250k miles!

Trust me, I've done it!!

Is it something an intermediate home mechanic could do or better putting it in the garage? If diy I presume its manageable with engine insitu.

Also I thought the bores looked ok but its the first time I've seen an engine apart. I could only feel the slightest of step when the head was off.

I don't fancy a 200tdi. Just love the simplicity of the engine and I'd really like to see it running 100%.

Huddy84 said:

Is it something an intermediate home mechanic could do or better putting it in the garage? If diy I presume its manageable with engine insitu.

Also I thought the bores looked ok but its the first time I've seen an engine apart. I could only feel the slightest of step when the head was off.

I don't fancy a 200tdi. Just love the simplicity of the engine and I'd really like to see it running 100%.

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any step means engines worn, you can get rebore for £120 plus £100 for pistons

Re-bore is engine out isn't it? As much as I'm tempted to do it myself I'm going go ask around and see if there's an engineering company who could do it for me for a non extortionate price. £220 + other bits and bobs sounds nice and cheap tho, just the risk of me messin it up and having to buy tools etc.

Cambridge Rebores
1 Broads Rd, Burwell, Cambridgeshire CB25 0BT
01638 743797

These people are good.

Cheers. Does anybody have experiences of costs? I'll ping the above company an email for a quote.