Not started for two months.

I've been away from my p38 for nearly 10 weeks,before I left I disconnected the battery. I have the EKA code but was wondering because it's been left for so long is there anything else I need to do before jumping In and hopefully starting it.

rabbits foot

head gasket,air bags valve block and wake up the butler

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed and my AA breakdown number handy. As soon as it starts it straight into a long drive from scotland to aylesbury.

good luck been told DAY'S rentals have good rates at mo lol

shakey said:

I've been away from my p38 for nearly 10 weeks,before I left I disconnected the battery. I have the EKA code but was wondering because it's been left for so long is there anything else I need to do before jumping In and hopefully starting it.

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Mine was in a shipping container from SA to the UK,just over 7 weeks with the battery connected and it started with no issues.

Suggest you charge battery connect it up and see what you get. Only worry if you need to, and it does not start.

My old diesel spares dog lives without a battery for months at a time, always starts with no drama or EKA codes when I put a battery on it. Not anymore though, started dismantling it for the gearbox.

Hi Keith

was going to comment not going to start now i have the turbo houses etc, how's the gearbox job comming on, looking forward to seeing you again soon.

On the other battery point i left mine off for two weeks and it started first turn of the key and as it'smy weekend and get away car I always have the battery negative turned off during the week and have stopped worrying about the battery now.

Hope she fires up for you do let us know how you get on.

Tony

It started straight away, now to get it home and get a few things sorted on it. Might have to invest in a faultmate.blend motors need sorting, new amp needed and lpg needs a good looking at, that should keep me busy for a few weekends.

Thanks for your help and advice yet again.

Its all gone wrong. Starter motor left me stuck on top deck of a ferry, then a grinding noise started from rear left wheel. Just taken the left hand rear caliper off and found the bottom slider stuck solid and the inside pad had broken up and was down the metal!!!!

The slider would not come out for anything,tried heat, hammer and more hammer, penetrating spray but it would not move. In the end it was put in a vice and smacked with the biggest hammer i could find and it still only moved a fraction but it moved. plenty more whacking and it was out.

Whent to check the other side but some bright spark has rounded off the locking wheel nut so as soon as you put any weight on the bar it just slides off any ideas on how i can get the nut off. I cant move the car as im trying to find guide pins,calipers and caliper brackets.

Im begging can someone please help me with the wheel nut problem.

Trying to find guide pins on a saturday afternoon was like looking for the holy grail.

if its soild round bar with cut outs for locking nut key ,get a large chisel and knock it round ,otherwise weld nut on

Ive tried the chisel option but it wont budge. Im going to try and get a socket over ot tomorrow and see what happens. I dont have the weld choice either as i dont have that sort of kit and i cant move it as ive got no rear breaks. I was tempted to use Kwik Fit to do the whole job but thought i would give it a go Im sure ill get it off somehow.

Thanks for the info

If you are trying with the wheel wrench supplied the leverage angle will make it slide off. try with a socket on a breaker bar which will give you leverage at right angles to the nut and hopefully you will be able to shift the nut.if you do get it off you will probably need a sledge hammer to remove the wheel from the hub.

they will allways come off if proper chisel and hammer used ,i do stuff like that day in,there isnt a nut that cant be done that way ,and as above the wrench supplied isnt good for locking wheel nuts

must disagree james,you carnt use your chisel method on a xjr jag,i know to my cost.ats erk used air gun on mine,they are two stage locking nuts and he only engaged the first stage.when he pulled the trigger and pushed,he wore away the second stage----f#cked.as they are deeply recessed into the wheel,i had to grind off locknut down to stud, then drill stud out.Shakey,when you get the nut off,replace them all,if ones worn the the rest have probably had some use,and as already posted get a socket and cracker bar

Cheers for the tips, I've gone down with man flu so as soon I can move I'll give all ideas ago and get back to you.

Sorted.
Put a socket over the locking nut gave it a tap and it was on. Now have a socket with a wheel nut stuck in it but now have breaks all broken down and ready for change.