New Prop or Uj?

Afternoon all just looking for some help as Betsy is off the road at the mo-started making the horrible "death rattle" when lifting off the throttle which i realise is the uj on its way out.

Iv searched the posts on fitting a fresh uj but im stuck without a vice that Buster uses in his job so im just wondering am i just best off fitting a full new prop with ujs already on? Seen some on fleabay that should fit.(Betsys a k plate 200tdi)

Shes had a 2 inch lift which i realise has probably put added stress on props so am i likely gonna need to fit a wide angle prop both front and back?! Didnt even specify i wanted a lift on her local garage just ordered them in and fitted um.

Basically my local garage is the other side of town i have to book in ages in advance to get them to look at it and im f***ed off with her sat in the road not bein able to drive her.

Any advice appreciated

if youve got no way then buy new,wide angle props will only help if yokes are catching you need doudle cardan or cv to make rotation smoother,save old prop and fit uj later date for your own use or sale .best of both worlds then

Ummmm welllll it is pos to fit new uj without a vice. In the bush we use a bottle jack on a big stone on to the tow bar to push out and then hammer the bugger until ist out. Its a bit tricky though. 2'' lift should not cause too mutch trouble though. The cost diff here is major between a new prop and just a uj or two. Id fix it, woult take 2hrs to do both uj's.

jamesmartin said:

if youve got no way then buy new,wide angle props will only help if yokes are catching you need doudle cardan or cv to make rotation smoother,save old prop and fit uj later date for your own use or sale .best of both worlds then

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Exactly what I did with my 200tdi. Mine's got a 2" lift too but I fitted a standard prop, took about 45 mins to do. Make sure you get one with grease nipples on (most do) and keep it greased regularly. I fitted mine on a flat surface so that I could just rotate the prop to get the bolts in the right position to remove and re-fit (new ones) and just moved the Landy by pushing the tyre with my foot slightly to spin the prop.

joints and a vice will probably cost less than a propshaft. the workshop and bench to bolt the vice to are only optional extras

ricc said:

joints and a vice will probably cost less than a propshaft. the workshop and bench to bolt the vice to are only optional extras

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Costs less by about £40 ... depends on your cashflow against your time available really. Do the UJ's put it back on and then the sliding joint fails (as mine did) and you do it again with a new prop.

Ive heard UJs are like less than £20 each so there is £80 for all four, then a vice compared to £200+ for a new wide angle prop !!!!!

dave18 said:

Ive heard UJs are like less than £20 each so there is £80 for all four, then a vice compared to £200+ for a new wide angle prop !!!!!

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A new prop is £80 approx ... you don't need a wide angle one!

Gents cheers for all your replies and help im gonna get a full prop set and try that.Took Betsy along to couple of garages nearby who wont touch Defenders they said and the only one that will want £200 for supplying and fitting not including VAT-im thinking thats pretty steep so will have a go meself.

Cheers again Pete

crikey - i will do it for £100

You can easily do it with a G-clamp!

No offence, but it really sounds like you just wanted encouragement to buy the news props you've had your eye on. It really doesn't make sense financially otherwise.

A good vice is about 30 to 40 quid, and quite frankly is the most important tool in the garage I'd say. You'd never be sorry you bought it.

Ujs are between 4 quid and 15 for the good hardy spicer jobbies.

On top of that, the special socket for the prop bolts is just under 20 quid. Which you'd need in either case, whether you change the ujs or the prop. (assuming you don't pay hay garage that extortionate rate).

You also need circlip pliers, a 9/16 spanner and a grease gun and grease. A hammer and an old socket.

Buying all of this and following busters guide put you quids in over your prop
set. It's about half the price, and you get to keep the tools you bought. Its a no brainer.

Unless of course you really want the new props, in which case stop hesitating and buy them.

mundungus said:

On top of that, the special socket for the prop bolts is just under 20 quid. Which you'd need in either case, whether you change the ujs or the prop.

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Or just use 2 spanners

Grimmer said:

Or just use 2 spanners

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That's a much better idea. Do that if you can get to them.

I only needed the special tool because a couple of the nuts and bolts were ground down too much to use a spanner.

mundungus said:

That's a much better idea. Do that if you can get to them.

I only needed the special tool because a couple of the nuts and bolts were ground down too much to use a spanner.

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Changed both my props without need for a 'special' tool.

mundungus said:

I only needed the special tool because a couple of the nuts and bolts were ground down too much to use a spanner.

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Grinder, and new nuts and bolts it is then,





I suppose the "special tool" does make things a little bit quicker though, i simply meant it is by no means essential for the job.

dont think youll be able to get in with a grinder.... might be easier to drill a couple of smallish holes in the side of the nackered nut to weaken it then split it with a cold chisel

ricc said:

dont think youll be able to get in with a grinder.... might be easier to drill a couple of smallish holes in the side of the nackered nut to weaken it then split it with a cold chisel

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I managed with my front prop with 4 1/2 inch grinder, just had to be careful and took my time

Could use a proper nut splitter or one of them dandy saws which use a 12" blade but has half of it sticking out

The Mad Hat Man said:

crikey - i will do it for £100

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Oi!!!! fookin stand in line will ya! I got an 11 year old who needs some pocket money and would do this one in his freakin sleep!