Sport New Owner. Many Questions

kermit_rr said:

thats why i said left ie the one opposite to right
for me, its the passengers door wot has the key hole innit

its RHD

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Rhd, that makes it right - hole-drive

Mark Piercy said:

Rhd, that makes it right - hole-drive

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fort it was Rancid Diesel Drive

kermit_rr said:

fort it was Rancid Diesel Drive

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Rong-hole-dive!!

It locks and unlocks all doors from the button in the centre console.

Mad McNiff said:

It locks and unlocks all doors from the button in the centre console.

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So that kind of points to the FOB

Where would I go to get a new fob of how can I check it?
As an aside I tested the voltage at the battery while the car was running and it was measuring 18.2V.
I thought this was very high.
What happens to the car if this is true.
What could be the reason for the lack of interior lights at the back the lights in the bottom of the doors and the drivers side electric wing mirror movement?

Cars with smart alternators can charge very high when the battery is failing, in an attempt to keep things going, i understand the can push out 18v, especially just after starting. I don't know if you're car has this.
No lights could be a broken wire in the door somewhere

Ill take a reading on the battery in the morning and this may give me the answer.

Mad McNiff said:

Hi All
I have finally scratched the itch of buying a Range Rover again after selling my last one ( a burgundy 1989 classic) in 2001.
I have just purchased a 2005 L320 Sport in Stornaway Grey with full service history.
Of course there are faults and I could do with a bit of advice on them
The doors lock with the fob but will not unlock with it. The tailgate opens using the Landrover button and this allowed me to get in and open the doors. The alarm went off but I managed to stop it by pressing the Landrover button a few times and then putting the key in the ignition. I daren't lock it again in case I can't get back in. What could be the problem?
The drivers side mirror does not work but the passenger one does.
The rear cabin lights don't come on when the doors are open or when the main button is pressed but come on if switched on. Again pointers to the problem would be welcome.

I read on here about the master reset so I tried that and it didn't work.

I know there are a lot of questions here but all the detractors are telling me the RR it is on its way out.

All advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks

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hi

Plus 1 what others have said with regards to the alternator / battery , plse recheck with the engine off then with it running to double check the Vdc , if it goes over 17 Vdc it can take out both the alternator and battery , if a new alternator is fitted plse ensure it’s a genuine denso

With a multimeter set it to VAC, with the engine running go across both battery terminals , plse let us know what the reading are

regarding the key fob issue there are green/ white wires down by the passenger side sill, there’s 3 x wires crimped together which need to be cut off and resoldered, , there’s a large loom that runs in that sill and u might find water in the sill

as u have diagnostics u can buy a key off eBay , plse ensure it’s a new one with 433mhz as that’s what’s the frequency is for Uk cars

other things to make sure of are oil pump and timing belt to when they were last replaced , very important as some older oil pumps had a weak casings where the tensioner can and does break off

boot lights may just be broken bulbs , the rear boot side ones by the handles don’t come on automatically, u have to turn them on manually , only the rear middle one and other centre lights will come on opening the boot/ doors

hope that helps

Key fob on eBay , haven’t used this company before but not a bad price , just need the blank cut and program the key with ur diagnostics, at least then ur have 2 x keys

they are charged via ur ignition lock as they are inductive , u can actually charge a key placing it onto an electric toothbrush charging base

hope that helps

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-LAND...f-ec3b-43d0-8f4d-0a5cb37c8389&redirect=mobile

Assume urs are similar of how the lights should come on, if the rear door overhead light cluster doesn’t come on when doors are opened first checking using a multimeter to ensure it’s not just the bulbs or no Vdc there it will be a failed light cluster itself

oh and the drivers side mirror , motor might have failed or where the loom goes through the door it may be a bad connection, easy t8 chexk with a multimeter to ensure u have voltage there , if the window works it normally then points to the mirror itself

some of the electrical issues might be a higher than normal output from ur alternator popping bulbs, light clusters etc so indeed would start there

hope that’s all useful to u

This is what ur looking for under the passenger side sill panel

marjon said:

Which is the drivers door, or are you looking from the front which makes it the drivers door.

But does it operate the CDL? for all doors or just open that door. I have never tried mine. I will let you go first.

J

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hi

indeed mine only has a key lock under the cover on the passenger side , plus one press just opens the drivers door, 2nd press opens all doors , then on locking one press super locks all doors, 2nd lock press keeps all the doors locked but turns off the interior alarm

can change the unlock sequence with diagnostics to open all the doors with one press if so desired

assume the RRS/ D3 are the same with regards to the lock / unlock sequence

gstuart said:

hi

Plus 1 what others have said with regards to the alternator / battery , plse recheck with the engine off then with it running to double check the Vdc , if it goes over 17 Vdc it can take out both the alternator and battery , if a new alternator is fitted plse ensure it’s a genuine denso

With a multimeter set it to VAC, with the engine off go across both battery terminals , plse let us know what the reading are

regarding the key fob issue there are green/ white wires down by the passenger side sill, there’s 3 x wires crimped together which need to be cut off and resoldered, , there’s a large loom that runs in that sill and u might find water in the sill

as u have diagnostics u can buy a key off eBay , plse ensure it’s a new one with 433mhz as that’s what’s the frequency is for Uk cars

other things to make sure of are oil pump and timing belt to when they were last replaced , very important as some older oil pumps had a weak casings where the tensioner can and does break off

boot lights may just be broken bulbs , the rear boot side ones by the handles don’t come on automatically, u have to turn them on manually , only the rear middle one and other centre lights will come on opening the boot/ doors

hope that helps

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There will be no voltage reading with the meter set to VAC as that is Volts AC

Mad McNiff said:

Where would I go to get a new fob of how can I check it?
As an aside I tested the voltage at the battery while the car was running and it was measuring 18.2V.
I thought this was very high.
What happens to the car if this is true.
What could be the reason for the lack of interior lights at the back the lights in the bottom of the doors and the drivers side electric wing mirror movement?

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High voltage readings can be caused by failure of the engine to chassis earth strap.

Datatek said:

There will be no voltage reading with the meter set to VAC as that is Volts AC

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there will be very low AC ripple,(in the 2-300mv range) much more than this indicates a problem

kermit_rr said:

there will be very low AC ripple,(in the 2-300mv range) much more than this indicates a problem

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True, but none of my DVM's will actually show it.

I did a test on the battery after leaving it overnight and the reading was 13.1V
I think I need to try a second multimeter to to see if they are the same and its not the meter thats faulty.

I will have a look in the sill at the weekend to look at the condition of the wiring.

It does have a bit of rust in the chassis so the earth strap could be a possabilty.

Mad McNiff said:

I did a test on the battery after leaving it overnight and the reading was 13.1V
I think I need to try a second multimeter to to see if they are the same and its not the meter thats faulty.

I will have a look in the sill at the weekend to look at the condition of the wiring.

It does have a bit of rust in the chassis so the earth strap could be a possabilty.

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sounds wrong to me, would suspect the meter initially

Yes thats what I thought.
Ill try a second meter and see what comes out.