new clutch in td4 now bite is on the floor

Hi all
just had a new clutch and bearing fitted as my old bearing was completely screwed.
Now the bite is on the floor and it Will barely go in gear .
Its been bled a few times but still the same.
Any ideas as its gonna cost a bomb to take it all out again.
Thanks as always

Apparently this can "just get better after a couple of weeks". Others have reported this.

Mine was fine after it was replaced a few years ago, but I had all the hydraulics replaced as well. Perhaps that was significant. Did you have the master cylinder replaced as well? Your slave would have been done with the release bearing as it's the same unit.

No i didn't change the master cylinder.i only did the clutch because the box was out to have the bearing replaced

Well, the slave is on the bearing, as stated, which only leaves the master. Unless there's something fundamentally wrong with the clutch plates.

Thinking about it (as this was a few years ago now) mine had the master replaced before the rest of it (when the slave started leaking), and the original replacement master was faulty. The garage had a pig of a job to bleed it out. It seemed to be free from air, but the biting point was right on the floor. Another master cylinder later all was well. Maybe you should consider changing this bit, unless, as others say, it does right itself after a couple of weeks.

It will be fine but it takes about 300 miles - had mine done recently - same thing. It's superb now. It gets better just standing overnight - bleeding and changing the fluid seems to do this.

Is that for def ? Just don't want to screw the clutch seeing as its new in case its a faulty past

Well nothing is for defo but if you are happy the garage are competent in bleeding clutches then it's probably correct.

I bleed out all my fluid once and the same thing happened on filing and bleeding - the clutch release went a while later all renewed by a good mechanic - clutch was almost on the floor getting it back - he told me what I have said and true to his word a couple of days later all was well.

It might be worthwhile popping it back for them to re bleed but see how it goes in a day.

Remember you have mated a new clutch onto an old flywheel - it will take a few miles for the high spots to wear flat and give max contact and therefore pressure.

Can you change gears and pull away from a start with it?

Just about get it into gear .reverse is a struggle

As others have said you need to give it a few hundred miles, i had mine done 5 months ago and the bite point was in the carpet so i asked the mechanic if this is ok and he replied "give it a week" and he was correct after a week the bite point began to rise up the pedal travel and has remained so .

k folks.Ill give it a go.Thanks very much.I was panicing there thinking it was all gone wrong

Like you James, I'd never heard of this and I would've been panicking too.

I read in Haynes that they suggest a 'power-bleeding' kit be used. This would lead me to suspect that there is some issue with bleeding the clutch, and you cannot expect it to be correct right away.

I've never heard of, or seen any type of power thing used at all. I've used 'eezi-bleed' or some such kit in the past - but that was simple and 'low-tech'.

So give it a week and please report back how you get on.

Hope all goes well.

I've seen a pressure pumped bleed kit, like a garden sprayer which screws to the reservior cap. I assume this is what they must mean by "Power Bleeding". Years ago we used to back fill the disc brakes on bikes with a hypodermic.....

Hope I don't need a clutch in the FL in the near future as it sounds a right pain

ya i asked the guy who fitted it and he used a pressure bleed kit yesterday and was still the same so i told him rather than whipping it all out again and costing another shed load id give it a week and see.He thought it might be the dual flywheel that needed to be changed ?

I'd fit a new master cylinder since everything else has been replaced. I can't imagine a garage or mechanic worth his salt returning a car to the customer telling them to wait a few hundred miles for it to right itself.

thing is if everything was fine before the bearing went shoudlnt it all be ok now too?

No not necessarily, It will depend on its age/use, if the master cylinder is past its best then I wouldn't be surprised if the introduction of air and the subsequent bleeding process was enough to finish it off.

Right got it back and have done 80 miles.im gettin a load grinding noise now as if tryin to put into gear without a clutch.did ye have that too or am i screwed

OOh ya its pretty continuous in or out of gear unless accelerating

That doesn't sound right. After 80 miles the pedal should be firming up and it going into gear easier - it sounds to me like you have air getting in.

Can you take it back to the mechanic? Otherwise try reverse bleeding by taking the bleed nipple right out and wrapping the threads in ptfe tape (plumbers white tape) and then put it back. Fill a syringe ( large one) with fluid attach to nipple with a tight fitting rubber tube - open nipple a little and also the rubber cap on the reservoir. Note you should have used the syringe and tube to suck as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir beforehand.

Squirt fluid into nipple and watch it rise in the reservoir - when it is just over half full continue squirting while closing the nipple. Lock off and then top up the reservoir. Put sealing lid back on and see what pedal is doing.

When I do this on bikes I find it helpful to flip the clutch a few times through the process to dislodge any trapped air - ok do to do all this you probably need 4 hands so help needed I suspect.

Hope this helps.

Did you get to check the dual mass flywheel while it was all down? I changed mine - at 90k miles it was pretty knackered but worked ok.

Was told there was a little bit of play on it.so time to worry then.fly wheels are crazy price aren't they