New chassis questions

Is it easy to transfer 1987 ninety wiring loom to new galv. chassis?

Any tips?

Well worth taking pics and writing down where the wires go as you dismantle the old one. It may seem simple as you take it apart, it wont be when you put it back together. I think if I was going to the expense and trouble I would use a new loom as well.

Label EVERTHING! You will not remember where everything connects..........assess the condition of the loom before fitting and if tired or severely modified, replace, you wont want to do it twice!

Paul

Turboman said:

Well worth taking pics and writing down where the wires go as you dismantle the old one. It may seem simple as you take it apart, it wont be when you put it back together. I think if I was going to the expense and trouble I would use a new loom as well.

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I totally agree I'd look at putting a new loom in it.

I remember changing the chassis on my 90 a few years ago and found most of the loom wires were still quite flexible while in other parts wiring was quite stiff and brittle there was quite A lot of frayed and worn out covering on some of the wires as well which was covered with the original insulation

Definitely label as many connections as possible!

I made a few changes to my loom during the galv chassis swap:
- change all light connections for the later econoseal connections and 300tdi lights
- add in a couple of extra lives to the dash for use later on
- consider changing the fuse box to the later blade type
- a couple of additional earths won't go amiss either.

I didn't want the hassle of threading the loom back through the the chassis leg and was worried that sharp bits of galvanising inside would damage the loom. Instead it was wrapped in conduit and P-clipped along the top of the chassis rail.

I would replace the bulkhead to rear light area loom
if your on a budget make your own with 7 core (or 12/13 if you need more) trailer wire and P clip to chassis much better than single wires wrapped with tape

Personally i would run a brand new loom, It's like changing a clutch for a 2nd hand one, ya don't do it lol
For the rear lights& all the wiring going to the back as said I would run it ontop of the chassis rail or inside the cab and tuck it out the way. Land rover running the loom trough the chassis has to be one of their worst mistakes. I'm fed up of pulling new lengths of cable through my chassis to the rear crossmember as they rub through,
Just my own opinion!

Thanks for the advice

Boris113 said:

Definitely label as many connections as possible!

I didn't want the hassle of threading the loom back through the the chassis leg and was worried that sharp bits of galvanising inside would damage the loom. Instead it was wrapped in conduit and P-clipped along the top of the chassis rail.

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That's how I have my wiring anyway, mine is run inside 22mm plastic water pipe clipped to the top of the chassis. I didn't like the idea of the wires swimming in a bath of dinitrol, and its easier to inspect the wires, and to do chassis welding if needed.