New air bags, vavle block and compressor still now air eas

Oh yes I forgot to add that it is now not showing any faults when I run the software so very confused!!

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

Oh yes I forgot to add that it is now not showing any faults when I run the software so very confused!!

Steve

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Did you do the valve block. You have not by any chance done the same a Irishrover did, put the solenoids back in the wrong place by any chance have you? Although if you have i would not expect it to stay up as long as it did.

That is what is bothering me, did I get it all the right way around when I put it back together? But as much as possible I took one piece to pieces, cleaned it then refitted before moving to the next piece, but how critical is the orientation of the solenoids? I'm 99% sure all is back as it was but when things don't work there is always a nagging doubt, perhaps I should go back in there and strip it all again, I'm guessing valve block is the biggest suspect with this as the bags and lines to them are pretty proven after sitting so long?

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

That is what is bothering me, did I get it all the right way around when I put it back together? But as much as possible I took one piece to pieces, cleaned it then refitted before moving to the next piece, but how critical is the orientation of the solenoids? I'm 99% sure all is back as it was but when things don't work there is always a nagging doubt, perhaps I should go back in there and strip it all again, I'm guessing valve block is the biggest suspect with this as the bags and lines to them are pretty proven after sitting so long?

Steve

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The actual orientation does not matter, as long as you put the four corner valves, the ones with the strong springs, back in the correct place. But the inlet and exhaust ones whilst simular looking have a different part number and much smaller springs because they are held open. Look at Irishrovers last thread for more info. Your valve block maybe full of residue from the air drier causing the seals to leak. Slight moisture in the desicant residue makes it set like concrete forming a crust on the rubber seals causing leaks.

Speaking from recent experience, I would, for how long it takes + peace of mind, remove the Valve Block and double check the orientation of the solenoid valve bases as there are basically two types...4 the same for the air springs and 2 for the Inlet and exhaust, the diaphragm solenoid valve is smaller and will only go in one place. With regard to the solenoid coils, in my case, the wiring loom lengths made the location obvious.
I have posted pic's during the past day or so showing the different valve block components. There is also a link to the valve block rebuild in my recent post "One for EAS Guru's" that has step by step photo's and valve positions.
I feel the frustration you must be feeling as I have recently been in the same position.
One way or another I have every confidence that with help from the knowledgeable people on here, you will get sorted.
Good Luck

Wammers / Irish, I think you are right, the only way to be sure is re strip the valve block and check, this was my suspision and you have backed it up!

I have just read through your thread Irish along with the link to the thread you followed for rebuild, all looks like it will be very useful, I think the link is the one I followed (but obviously not carefuly enough!!) when I did the original rebuild, it was back in October but untested until now so memory has been pickled a bit since then with xmas and new year!! I hope it is my mistake causing the problem as it will be an easy fix!!

The valve block was all very clean inside and out before I started, I have also replaced the drier so hopefully there is no powder in there.

I will let you know how I get on........

Steve

Hmmm.....

Gutted now, was really hoping that I had done something wrong when rebuilding the valve block, I've just re stripped it again and can't see anything wrong, all the solenoids are right, the diaphragm is in the right way around, all the 'o' rings seem properly seated, what else to check??

Then if I put it back in the car to find the problem is still there what to look at next???

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

Hmmm.....

Gutted now, was really hoping that I had done something wrong when rebuilding the valve block, I've just re stripped it again and can't see anything wrong, all the solenoids are right, the diaphragm is in the right way around, all the 'o' rings seem properly seated, what else to check??

Then if I put it back in the car to find the problem is still there what to look at next???

Steve

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Cross that bridge when you get to it. Cross your fingers, spin round three times with your tongue stuck out. That should be enough.

wammers said:

Cross that bridge when you get to it. Cross your fingers, spin round three times with your tongue stuck out. That should be enough.

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Ha Ha Ha!! well we will see in a minute, I've just put it back on and left it running with the door open to build some pressure, come in to make a coffee, it's F****n freezing out there!!

Fingers are crossed, spun around with tongue out so just off back out to see..........

Watch this space!!

gulfbluersr said:

Ha Ha Ha!! well we will see in a minute, I've just put it back on and left it running with the door open to build some pressure, come in to make a coffee, it's F****n freezing out there!!

Fingers are crossed, spun around with tongue out so just off back out to see..........

Watch this space!!

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Well I must have spun around the wrong way or something!! When I went back out earlier closed the door up it came, took it for a quick spin to settle it all in just to see if that helped, parked it up switched it of then set up the laptop to check for faults, no faults are showing.
So came in for some beer, just popped my head out the door to see if it has worked and nope!!!!! rear end down and front on it's way

Tomorrow I shall refit the tyre valves and pump just the bags up with my garage compressor just to prove to myself that it is not the rear bags, I don't think it is but want to eliminate them again.
Any other suggestions please?

Steve

So then, what next? Any ideas?

I've run it for the last few days with the tyre valves straight on the end lines from the valve block, no problems air bags stay up fine.

I'm not sure what to try next, I was thinking of getting some 't' pieces to put in the air lines and then pumping the bags up to see if the valve block will hold the air with the relay below the seat removed to disable the rest of the system.

Does this sound like a worthwhile idea to eliminate the valve block? As I've mentioned in previous posts I've rebuilt the block and also re striped it and checked it but can't see anything wrong with it but what else could cause it to loose it's air as soon as it is switched off?

Thanks for any help.

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

So then, what next? Any ideas?

I've run it for the last few days with the tyre valves straight on the end lines from the valve block, no problems air bags stay up fine.

I'm not sure what to try next, I was thinking of getting some 't' pieces to put in the air lines and then pumping the bags up to see if the valve block will hold the air with the relay below the seat removed to disable the rest of the system.

Does this sound like a worthwhile idea to eliminate the valve block? As I've mentioned in previous posts I've rebuilt the block and also re striped it and checked it but can't see anything wrong with it but what else could cause it to loose it's air as soon as it is switched off?

Thanks for any help.

Steve

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Sometimes when you do the valve block it takes it a while to settle down. You could try connecting it back up and cycling it a few times don't blow the compressor up doing it though.

Thanks Wammers I'll try again tomorrow, trouble is I also have a wheel bearing rumbling away quite well to add to the troubles!!

Not sure which one yet, sometimes I think maybe front sometimes rear but is getting worse so I will have to sort it I have access to a HUGE press so just gotta get bearings and decide which end to try 1st!! Am I right in thinking the front and rear bearings are all the same? From what I have read they are not hard to change so long as you have a press so should be no big deal as long as I've not left it too long and trashed the hubs!!!

Steve

Make absolutely sure that the airlines are not leaking at the collets connecting them to the valve block.

Then try exercising the system as Wammers suggests.

If problem still exists try the inflating manually via the tee connections as you suggest and then leave with the EAS relay removed and see what happens.

I am afraid it not always possible to visually see where the leaks are in the valve block by inspecting.Sometimes we even stare at the obvious without seeing it.

gulfbluersr said:

Thanks Wammers I'll try again tomorrow, trouble is I also have a wheel bearing rumbling away quite well to add to the troubles!!

Not sure which one yet, sometimes I think maybe front sometimes rear but is getting worse so I will have to sort it I have access to a HUGE press so just gotta get bearings and decide which end to try 1st!! Am I right in thinking the front and rear bearings are all the same? From what I have read they are not hard to change so long as you have a press so should be no big deal as long as I've not left it too long and trashed the hubs!!!

Steve

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Same bearings front and rear. The hubs will be fine.

Just to update this thread a bit, I found and won on Ebay a nice cheap working valve block, decided that it was worth a try just to put my mind at rest as for the block that I had resealed in case I had given myself any new problems......

1st I put the ebay block in and car went up, but then settled to high on the passenger side and low on the drivers, I sent to the top, bottom and middle, drove around and full cycle again always the same, confused!! so I rechecked everything, tested the lines into the block for leaks, 2 were leaking and also found that I had the 2 rear lines the wrong way around!! I trimmed the ends, swapped the rears around and re inflated..success!!

Yesterday I took it out for about 150miles with no issues!

When I get a bit of time over the next couple of weeks I will swap back to the rebuilt block to see if I had the lines wrong then maybe that was all that was wrong along with perhaps a small leak to the lines that I had missed?

Thanks for all the help, I will update when I've done the block swap again, I'm sure that I did it all ok when I rebuilt but maybe not!!

Steve