New air bags, vavle block and compressor still now air eas

Decided to start a new thread for this update to my old thread..........

Data , Wammers and any other EAS experts please help!!!

Right then here goes, the original fault was/is all the lights on at the dash switch, compressor was running constant and full height lift.

Then compressor stopped working, but works when you jump relay 20. I pumped it up this way while I was waiting for my new springs and oring kit, then it went hard fault, dropped to the stops and won't lift.

Now I have fitted new springs, rebuilt valve block including diagphram, new drier and new seal in compressor.

I fitted manual valves to inflate the air bags, they go up, however, they still go hard fault and drop

I have cleared the faults, but it still will not rise or run the compressor
Still saying 35mph max on dash, will the rsw software not clear this?

If I jump relay 20 the compressor still runs but will not lift

Where do I look next? Height sensors? I can't even get the compressor to run with the software! Only thing is that I can see with the rsw the green light for 'system idle' does not sit solid, it flashes between green and red no matter how much I adjust the sliders up and down, is this right? it must be in some kind of sync as I do manage to clear and get new codes.

Here are the current codes........
0 : Engine speed fault
1 : Vehicle speed fault
0 : Cannot lower FL
1 : FR valve stuck open

Please help!!

Steve

I dont think you can run the compressor with the software if its showing a fault on dash.Is the plug socket(pass. side foot well) clean and free from corrosion? Check both sides of plug. regards

try and find out why that valve is stuck open, you may need the lead off ebay to plug into your laptop and sort it that way,the lead also comes with a disc as well.
or you may find someone near you that can sort it out.

I will go get some elec contact cleaner tomorrow and check/clean the socket just incase it is dirty/rusty.

I have the lead, bought from Datatech new so being new will be nice and shiney clean.

The valve fault I assume is one of the solenoids on top of the valve block? are they usually a suspect? when I stripped the valve block I was surgically clean with everything and cleaned it all pretty well...... well I thought so, wifey was not over impressed with me spreading it all out on paper on the dinning table Sunday night!!!

The Valve block was all pretty clean inside anyway, the only sign of any white residue was a very, and I mean very small amount on the diagphram, to be honest when I was doing the block I thought it all looked pretty good before I started.

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

I will go get some elec contact cleaner tomorrow and check/clean the socket just incase it is dirty/rusty.

I have the lead, bought from Datatech new so being new will be nice and shiney clean.

The valve fault I assume is one of the solenoids on top of the valve block? are they usually a suspect? when I stripped the valve block I was surgically clean with everything and cleaned it all pretty well...... well I thought so, wifey was not over impressed with me spreading it all out on paper on the dinning table Sunday night!!!

The Valve block was all pretty clean inside anyway, the only sign of any white residue was a very, and I mean very small amount on the diagphram, to be honest when I was doing the block I thought it all looked pretty good before I started.

Steve

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Thermal trip has gone on the compressor that's why it will not run. Forget the valve stuck open, it's because there is no pressure. You can only clear a fault once you have fixed the problem. Jumping the relay bypasses the thermal trip so proves nothing, you should be able to activate the compressor from the EAS software. I suspect also that your compressor is shot and making no pressure even when it did run, that's why it has overheated and blown the trip.

To test thermal trip check for continuity from orange wire to black wire. Do not under any circumstances apply power to orange wire. If there is continuity thermal cut out is ok. If not it is duff. Did you service the compressor inlet and exhaust valves when you did the seal. If with compressor running you get suction on inlet with a finger over it and no air being blown back through it then valves are ok. With pump running put your finger over outlet. You should not be able to seal it air should be forced past your finger. That takes care of compressor. You say you fitted a new diaphragm but that does not mean a lot if diaphragm solenoid valve is not working. Solenoid valve supplies air pressure to lower side of diaphragm to seal exhaust port when compressor is running. Check by removing exhaust filter and with compressor running and finger over exhaust, no air should be coming out. When you serviced valve block are you sure you replaced every solenoid back where it came from? Doing this is important. Also when you use EASunlock are you shutting it down properly. If not done correctly EAS won't work. Eas takes a speed reading from wheel sensors and engine to operate various functions. These faults
could be a dirty pins on ECU check that. EAS won't work if engine is not running so if it's not gettting and engine speed reading that is your problem. Only time it works without engine is for 20 seconds after doors are shut with engine off to level and every six hours or so from then on to level. This is controlled by EAS delay relay, you might like to check that for function also. Because when it operates it does so without engine running, cutting out the need for a speed signal. So that could also be your problem. If you can manual inflate and car still drops you have a leak somewhere or the delay relay is faulty and over active. Difficult to diagnose from here but a few things to be looking at. Good luck.

PS. Jumping compressor alone without engine running will not fill tank as diaphragm solenoid will not be activated and air will be lost through exhaust. It will also not fill tank if EAS is not functioning for same reason.

Here we go, this what I have done following all your advice........
Checked thermal switch conti ...orange black and orange green both good

Inlet and exhaust valves I must be honest I did forget these, I take it you mean the steel flaps in the head of the comp? It was getting late and wife was nagging so put it back together and forgot!!! I guess I should open it up and check them? finger gets sucked on when over the inlet and no air from exhaust or sucking so guess this is ok?

I can almost stop the outlet of the compressor but not quite does this sound right? I was very careful with the teflon seal but guess I may have damaged it, don't think so though, the bore also looked very clean.



Yes I'm confidant all solenoids went back as they came off.

Software I think I am shutting down right, I always press stop etc as the video shows.

I have been running the engine whilst using the software, with all doors closed however bonnet up, will try with bonnet closed, should this matter?
How do I test the eas delay relay please........ be basic remember I'm a wood butcher!!!!

Tonight I will put the valves back on the air lines, inflate all bags manually with tyre comp, leave a door open and check heights and again in the morning for leaks.

All help appreciated keep it coming!!!

Am I right that if remove the delay relay, when I pump up the bags with my external valves and compressor then the hard fault will not send it to the floor again? or should I remove fuse 4 for this to disable the whole system?

Thanks again

Steve

oh yeah, checked the pins to the ecu all clean, even found a £2 coin under the seat.....result!!!!!

Also checked the pressure switch in the valve block following rsw video and that checked out ok after running comp manually for 10 mins.......and yes with pump cool again over heat switch still checks good

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

oh yeah, checked the pins to the ecu all clean, even found a £2 coin under the seat.....result!!!!!

Also checked the pressure switch in the valve block following rsw video and that checked out ok after running comp manually for 10 mins.......and yes with pump cool again over heat switch still checks good

Steve

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Is the pump giving good air. Will the system rise when commanded by EAS unlock to do so?

That is the strange thing, I'm not convinced the eas unlock is syncing correctly, but having never seen another one I may be wrong!!

I can't make the software run the compressor or do anything really other than come up with the codes.

Should the system idle box go green and stay green or do they normally flash about between green and red? I seem to be getting the FF in the right hand column as the video shows but every now and again it will get a number like Storey says is wrong, but just the odd flash not full time........ If that makes sense!! It has done this same thing every time I plug it is so assume it is working right? I have messed with the sliders all over the place like he says but always the same, I have found the top 2 sliders over to the high numbers and the bottom to the lower number seems to work best........ sorry can't remember the slider names!!

When I tried to pump the bags up earlier with my garage compressor and valves on the pipes it was very strange, could not get the bags to raise front seemed to go a bit but rear would not...very odd! I'm wondering if the airline has come out of one or both of the rear bags which is why it dropped back down the other night, I gave up tonight as dark and I was ****ed off with it!! Will have another look tomorrow!!

Steve

gulfbluersr said:

That is the strange thing, I'm not convinced the eas unlock is syncing correctly, but having never seen another one I may be wrong!!

I can't make the software run the compressor or do anything really other than come up with the codes.

Should the system idle box go green and stay green or do they normally flash about between green and red? I seem to be getting the FF in the right hand column as the video shows but every now and again it will get a number like Storey says is wrong, but just the odd flash not full time........ If that makes sense!! It has done this same thing every time I plug it is so assume it is working right? I have messed with the sliders all over the place like he says but always the same, I have found the top 2 sliders over to the high numbers and the bottom to the lower number seems to work best........ sorry can't remember the slider names!!

When I tried to pump the bags up earlier with my garage compressor and valves on the pipes it was very strange, could not get the bags to raise front seemed to go a bit but rear would not...very odd! I'm wondering if the airline has come out of one or both of the rear bags which is why it dropped back down the other night, I gave up tonight as dark and I was ****ed off with it!! Will have another look tomorrow!!

Steve

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EASunlock should be green all the time once it has synced. If you are running it through a usb connector that maybe your problem. I have never been able to get my ACER to run it. But old steam driven Dell runs it perfectly from a serial port. Think you had better check everything again leak wise. Then work on getting the EASunlock working properly otherwise you are ****ing against the wind. Even the codes it is giving maybe incorrect if it is not syncing properly. Download and read the instructions from Storeys site if you have not got them already, read through them several times.

wammers said:

EASunlock should be green all the time once it has synced. If you are running it through a usb connector that maybe your problem. I have never been able to get my ACER to run it. But old steam driven Dell runs it perfectly from a serial port. Think you had better check everything again leak wise. Then work on getting the EASunlock working properly otherwise you are ****ing against the wind. Even the codes it is giving maybe incorrect if it is not syncing properly. Download and read the instructions from Storeys site if you have not got them already, read through them several times.

Click to expand...

I'm using an ACER laptop with USB so that will be the 1st thing to sort now I know that it should stay solid green!! I did try and steam up my old IBM but think the steam boiler has sprung a leak could not get it to fire up just kept giving me fault codes ....... story of my life at the moment!!!

I will borrow a laptop with serial port rather than usb then.

I have viewed Storey's videos loads in the past and again now, but will spend some more time on them tonight. I'll be checking the whole system over again later for leaks, last night I just thought **** it I've had enough, left everything outside and came in for a beer!! After the episode with the valves and garage compressor I'm sure something has gone wrong like the pipes blown out of a bag or 2, could not hear anything but must be something. I will report back my findings, just hope something simple.

Thanks again for the help!!

Steve

gulfbluersr - if you are using Windows 7 the USB driver does not work properly. I have had problems with this and received a new driver for Win 7 from Logilink support that fixes the issues (NOTE: this is not the one you can download from their website but a special driver). Please PM me if you need it & I can send it to you.

gulfbluersr said:

I'm using an ACER laptop with USB so that will be the 1st thing to sort now I know that it should stay solid green!! I did try and steam up my old IBM but think the steam boiler has sprung a leak could not get it to fire up just kept giving me fault codes ....... story of my life at the moment!!!

I will borrow a laptop with serial port rather than usb then.

I have viewed Storey's videos loads in the past and again now, but will spend some more time on them tonight. I'll be checking the whole system over again later for leaks, last night I just thought **** it I've had enough, left everything outside and came in for a beer!! After the episode with the valves and garage compressor I'm sure something has gone wrong like the pipes blown out of a bag or 2, could not hear anything but must be something. I will report back my findings, just hope something simple.

Thanks again for the help!!

Steve

Click to expand...

You can download and print a set of written instructions with step by step sections. Best to have those with you in case you forget something.

nisbeam said:

gulfbluersr - if you are using Windows 7 the USB driver does not work properly. I have had problems with this and received a new driver for Win 7 from Logilink support that fixes the issues (NOTE: this is not the one you can download from their website but a special driver). Please PM me if you need it & I can send it to you.

Click to expand...

Thanks Nisbeam, I'm using xp on the laptop but not sure what will be on the laptop I am borrowing with a serial port, I will pm you if I need the driver. Thanks

Steve

wammers said:

You can download and print a set of written instructions with step by step sections. Best to have those with you in case you forget something.

Click to expand...

Thanks Wammers, just done some more poking around on the RSW site and found the written instructions on the download software, not noticed them before or forgotten about them! have read through them and will print them out to have in the car while testing, like you say will help to check it all as I do it.

Steve

The "Good Idle" button should be green, but if you watch very closely, it blinks red for a fraction of a second when executing a command.

Well I think I may of found the leak and the reason why the rear passenger bag would not inflate the other night..........



Looks like the new bag decided to let go of the top cup!! managed to squeeze it back on and blow it up to get it to reseat properly with my garage compressor, leaving it with alll bags blown up and a door open all day now to see what happens......

Hopefully borrowing a laptop with serial port later then see if I can clear the faults properly then maybe all will be well...... Wish me luck!!

Steve

One good thing about the Arnott's is that the bag is crimped to the end caps. Good luck with getting it back together.

Right then better do an update!!Just a quick memory refresher to save reading the whole thread to catch up again, basically the dash lights all came on for the height settings, car went into ease hard fault max 35mph. I have put on 4 new air bags, new seal in the compressor and replaced the seals in the valve block, I got the lead and disk from Datatek, thank you!!

After replacing the airbags and all I tried to get the pc to talk to the eas through a usb adapter but failed to get it to sync, time was short as was my patience by now and the old laptop with serial port was telling me I needed to have a microsoft add on or something so I gave up and put some tyre valves on the end of the outlet pipes from the valve block to the individual air bags, manually blew them up and used it like that till the end of October when the tax ran out. It has sat since then unmoved. The front stayed up and the rear sagged but neither were on the bump stops even after sitting through November, December until late last night so I'm happy I have no major leak problems from the bags or lines to them.

So I sorted the laptop so it now syncs and operates the Eas functions, I cleared the faults but sadly never made a note of them, left a door open, ran the car and compressor, shut the door and up she goes......... But! when I switch the ignition off it settles down on the rear after a few minutes, then after a while the front follows, if I leave it running but not moving the back end will drop, nearside 1st then drivers but the front seems to stay up. Then when I drive off again up they come to level!!

So is it a sensor fault? The driver pack? Or have I got something wrong when I did the valve block? I was very careful when doing the valve block but I suppose I may have made a mistake!! Even if I leave it up with the door open it still drops down so something is letting it go but what? ..........Help please!

Steve