Need advice on buying first Range Rover

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Poker wolf

New Member
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2
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London
Hi, i'm looking to buy my first RR within the next 6 weeks which is the car i've been wanting since I was 10 years old. I'm now 21 and whilst financially comfortable, still a bit apprehensive from the 'horror stories' i've heard.

So i'm looking at the first 2005-2012 gen of Range Rover Sport, because I love the look of them and do not need the full size Rover. I have done very extensive research into what I am getting myself into with Land Rover ownership but before I pull the trigger, I was wondering if I have missed or overlooked anything.

I'm financially ok so the expensive repairs & maintenance costs don't bother me too much however I am self employed and depend on my car to earn income. I know that owning a luxury 4x4 means things will go wrong, suspension etc, however once these are repaired how long can I expect to go without having to repair the same thing again? My main concern is constantly having to spend money at fixing the same parts that keep breaking over and over again. If I have to spend a lot of money to repair something, that's ok but I need the peace of mind that I can put that specific problem behind me afterwards.

Secondly, I'm not sure on which model year I should go for. From what i've researched, the earlier 2.7 diesel engines of the Sport were a bit rubbish and underpowered. The 2010 model is absolutely gorgeous inside however where the technology has been greatly improved I fear that this would bring more electrical problems. How frequent are electrical problems on these vehicles & how much do they generally cost to repair?

I've made a list of things I need to look for in the service history/car upon inspection before purchasing the car. Please let me know if i've missed anything or if there's anything further regarding any of the points that I need to know:

- Timing chain belt must be replaced on high mileage vehicles
- Test the air suspension, adjustment should be smooth and reasonably quick
- Front differentials problem on BMW models pre-2006 only?
- Front brake pads as these wear out quickly
- Tyres, same as above
- Check electrics work
- Has the fuel/water pump been replaced. How would one check these are in good condition?
- Engine coolant leak?
- 6 speed gearbox may be a good idea to have this serviced
- Potential rust underneath wheel arches
- Ticking noise when going over bumps indicates control arms going bad

Please let me know if i've missed anything out. I'm going to be getting warranty on the car however I'd like to pick one up that has been taken care of rather than fixing one that hasn't (even if its covered under warranty).

My main concern is whether the 2010 model is worth getting or will it just have more problems than the older ones.

All help is greatly appreciated.
 
Big piece of advice here.. no matter how financially well off you are, you *will* need to learn to diagnose and spanner yourself. using local independents will eat your face with a RR. Forget about Main dealers.

Next..

budget for 400-700 for dedicated Range Rover diagnostics. a simple ODB scanner wont be much use at all it wont get into the ECUs

Next..

if you depend on it for daily transport for your self employed work, get a spare car. there *will* be times when its off the road, or you are awaiting parts, if you pre-order before starting work you will find wrong parts, change over year differences, delayed shipments and stuff you didn't count on when starting work. Bear in mind you will need somewhere to do work on it possibly for a few days at a time, how will you get about if the air suspension needs work ? do you have somewhere to store the tools you will have?

Owning a RR is not for the feint of heart, it is an enthusiasts only vehicle. spare car, tooling, diagnostics and the time to learn about it, how to diagnose and not be under pressure to have it ready for Monday morning are imperative
 
ukadamwest said:
Big piece of advice here.. no matter how financially well off you are, you *will* need to learn to diagnose and spanner yourself. using local independents will eat your face with a RR. Forget about Main dealers.

Next..

budget for 400-700 for dedicated Range Rover diagnostics. a simple ODB scanner wont be much use at all it wont get into the ECUs

Next..

if you depend on it for daily transport for your self employed work, get a spare car. there *will* be times when its off the road, or you are awaiting parts, if you pre-order before starting work you will find wrong parts, change over year differences, delayed shipments and stuff you didn't count on when starting work. Bear in mind you will need somewhere to do work on it possibly for a few days at a time, how will you get about if the air suspension needs work ? do you have somewhere to store the tools you will have?

Owning a RR is not for the feint of heart, it is an enthusiasts only vehicle. spare car, tooling, diagnostics and the time to learn about it, how to diagnose and not be under pressure to have it ready for Monday morning are imperative
Click to expand...
Without being confrontational, I really do have to say something here. This is at least the second time you have said that people will have to learn to diagnose and spanner themselves. I have to disagree. I do not do spanner work and I do not have diagnostics. I do pay a specialist indy to do the work.
And
I am still here and still have my Range Rover.



So for potential owners, it is not cheap, it is not easy and it can be frustrating but one does not need tools, somewhere to store them, diagnostics, nor to do the work oneself. In fact I have seen some tales, on here where it would have taken less time, and most likely worked out cheaper in the long run, had the work been done by an indy.
It's horses for courses, if you can, and want to, work on it yourself that's an option. If you cannot, or do not want to, work on it yourself, that is also an option.
 
gold rover said:
Without being confrontational, I really do have to say something here. This is at least the second time you have said that people will have to learn to diagnose and spanner themselves. I have to disagree. I do not do spanner work and I do not have diagnostics. I do pay a specialist indy to do the work.
And
I am still here and still have my Range Rover.



So for potential owners, it is not cheap, it is not easy and it can be frustrating but one does not need tools, somewhere to store them, diagnostics, nor to do the work oneself. In fact I have seen some tales, on here where it would have taken less time, and most likely worked out cheaper in the long run, had the work been done by an indy.
It's horses for courses, if you can, and want to, work on it yourself that's an option. If you cannot, or do not want to, work on it yourself, that is also an option.
Click to expand...
Not everyone is as well off as you and lucky enough to find an independent that knows anything about any Range Rover.
 
Poker wolf said:
Hi, i'm looking to buy my first RR within the next 6 weeks which is the car i've been wanting since I was 10 years old. I'm now 21 and whilst financially comfortable, still a bit apprehensive from the 'horror stories' i've heard.

So i'm looking at the first 2005-2012 gen of Range Rover Sport, because I love the look of them and do not need the full size Rover. I have done very extensive research into what I am getting myself into with Land Rover ownership but before I pull the trigger, I was wondering if I have missed or overlooked anything.

I'm financially ok so the expensive repairs & maintenance costs don't bother me too much however I am self employed and depend on my car to earn income. I know that owning a luxury 4x4 means things will go wrong, suspension etc, however once these are repaired how long can I expect to go without having to repair the same thing again? My main concern is constantly having to spend money at fixing the same parts that keep breaking over and over again. If I have to spend a lot of money to repair something, that's ok but I need the peace of mind that I can put that specific problem behind me afterwards.

Secondly, I'm not sure on which model year I should go for. From what i've researched, the earlier 2.7 diesel engines of the Sport were a bit rubbish and underpowered. The 2010 model is absolutely gorgeous inside however where the technology has been greatly improved I fear that this would bring more electrical problems. How frequent are electrical problems on these vehicles & how much do they generally cost to repair?

I've made a list of things I need to look for in the service history/car upon inspection before purchasing the car. Please let me know if i've missed anything or if there's anything further regarding any of the points that I need to know:

- Timing chain belt must be replaced on high mileage vehicles
- Test the air suspension, adjustment should be smooth and reasonably quick
- Front differentials problem on BMW models pre-2006 only?
- Front brake pads as these wear out quickly
- Tyres, same as above
- Check electrics work
- Has the fuel/water pump been replaced. How would one check these are in good condition?
- Engine coolant leak?
- 6 speed gearbox may be a good idea to have this serviced
- Potential rust underneath wheel arches
- Ticking noise when going over bumps indicates control arms going bad

Please let me know if i've missed anything out. I'm going to be getting warranty on the car however I'd like to pick one up that has been taken care of rather than fixing one that hasn't (even if its covered under warranty).

My main concern is whether the 2010 model is worth getting or will it just have more problems than the older ones.

All help is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
2007 RR sport V8 Diesel every time, heaps of grunt, decent fuel consumption.
 
gold rover said:
Without being confrontational, I really do have to say something here. This is at least the second time you have said that people will have to learn to diagnose and spanner themselves. I have to disagree. I do not do spanner work and I do not have diagnostics. I do pay a specialist indy to do the work.
And
I am still here and still have my Range Rover.
Click to expand...

No confrontation taken !

It depends on how much use the vehicle gets, how it has been not just maintained but treated in the past and also luck.

SV8 has an encylopedic knowledge and skills to match, despite him self spannering, it ate his face. BTD has done a huge amount of work on both his L322 and P38, going to an Indy would have made the vehicle unviable. I earn a pretty good salary and couldnt afford to run one, let alone two, going to mechanics.

The OP is going to use it as a daily driver and his work is dependent on it. It would be rose coloured glasses to say it could be run and used daily and no diagnostics or self spannering is required.

Maybe you got lucky with one that doesn't need much, maybe it will hit at a point that gremlins start showing. Maybe it won't. Etc etc.

The thing is these are enthusiast cars, you yourself are on an enthusiast website for them where help and support is provided. Anyone contemplating a RR needs to be aware of the reality. it's not just a big, comfortable impressive car. Too many people buy for the prestige of owning one, like with my other passion, Porsches and don't appreciate that it can't be run on Fiesta money and Toyota reliability. They get behind very quickly work starts stacking up and big, huge bills follow then it gets passed on and gets the reputation of being unreliable.

Not being confrontational either, but I will say it a 3rd and 4th time.

Peace out!
 
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ukadamwest said:
No confrontation taken !

It depends on how much use the vehicle gets, how it has not just maintained but treated in the past and also luck.

SV8 has an encylopedic knowledge and skills to match despite him self spannering it ate his face. BTD has done a huge amount of work on both his L322 and P38 going to an Indy would have made the vehicle unviable. I earn a pretty good salary and couldnt afford to run one let alone two going to mechanics.

The OP is going to use it as a daily driver and his work is dependent on it. It would be rose coloured glasses to say it could be run and used daily and no diagnostics or self spannering is required.

Maybe you got lucky with one that doesn't need much, maybe it will hit at point that gremlins start showing. Maybe it won't. Etc etc.

The thing is these are enthusiast cars, you are on an enthusiast website for them where help and support is provided. anyone contemplating a RR needs to be aware of the reality. it's not just a big comfortable impressive car. too many people buy for the prestige of owning one, like with my other passion, Porsches and don't appreciate that it can be run on Fiesta money and Toyota reliability. They get behind very quickly work starts stacking up and big, huge bills follow then it gets passed on and gets te reputation of being unreliable.

Not being confrontational either, but I will say it a 3rd and 4th time

Peace out!
Click to expand...
Well said sir.
 
ukadamwest said:
No confrontation taken !

It depends on how much use the vehicle gets, how it has been not just maintained but treated in the past and also luck.

SV8 has an encylopedic knowledge and skills to match, despite him self spannering, it ate his face. BTD has done a huge amount of work on both his L322 and P38, going to an Indy would have made the vehicle unviable. I earn a pretty good salary and couldnt afford to run one, let alone two, going to mechanics.

The OP is going to use it as a daily driver and his work is dependent on it. It would be rose coloured glasses to say it could be run and used daily and no diagnostics or self spannering is required.

Maybe you got lucky with one that doesn't need much, maybe it will hit at a point that gremlins start showing. Maybe it won't. Etc etc.

The thing is these are enthusiast cars, you yourself are on an enthusiast website for them where help and support is provided. Anyone contemplating a RR needs to be aware of the reality. it's not just a big, comfortable impressive car. Too many people buy for the prestige of owning one, like with my other passion, Porsches and don't appreciate that it can't be run on Fiesta money and Toyota reliability. They get behind very quickly work starts stacking up and big, huge bills follow then it gets passed on and gets the reputation of being unreliable.

Not being confrontational either, but I will say it a 3rd and 4th time.

Peace out!
Click to expand...

That has got to be in the running for one of the funniest comments ever, on this site, possibly any Range Rover site. rolling-on-the-floor-laughing.png

As for the other parts, I will agree to disagree with you and repeat, you do not have to do spannering yourself. I've managed to keep mine for almost 9 years now. I have done one job myself, I changed the headlamp lens. Which I think was about 8 years ago. Just because I am an enthusiast doesn't automatically mean I'm climbing over, under and through her , when problems crop up.
So each time you say owners must do their own spannering, have somewhere to work/store tools and must have diagnostics, I'm sure you'll understand when I pipe up with , there is no must about it.
I can't be the only owner who, with the exception of a little sealer a couple of weeks ago, doesn't work on their vehicle.
 
gold rover said:
That has got to be in the running for one of the funniest comments ever, on this site, possibly any Range Rover site. View attachment 169628

As for the other parts, I will agree to disagree with you and repeat, you do not have to do spannering yourself. I've managed to keep mine for almost 9 years now. I have done one job myself, I changed the headlamp lens. Which I think was about 8 years ago. Just because I am an enthusiast doesn't automatically mean I'm climbing over, under and through her , when problems crop up.
So each time you say owners must do their own spannering, have somewhere to work/store tools and must have diagnostics, I'm sure you'll understand when I pipe up with , there is no must about it.
I can't be the only owner who, with the exception of a little sealer a couple of weeks ago, doesn't work on their vehicle.
Click to expand...
How much use does your car get? If you have had no expensive problems you are one of the lucky few. Most on here couldn't afford to use garages for all the problems that normally occur even if they could find one that is competent. Just one example, the ignition barrel has failed on one of my P38's, dealer says steering column has to be replaced at great expense. It's not true, the barrel can easily be removed in about half an hour. I will be fitting a second hand barrel and changing the barrel in the door handle to match for peanuts plus my time.
 
I have clients who ask about buying landrover's.... I always tell them that you have to really love the marque to put up with glitches, repairs, particular tricks and expenses, if not then you'll hate them with a passion.
I adore mine, even though the radiator split right in front of me and could of blinded me... Although a cheap radiator I'll add judging from the bill in 2013.. £129.. not an expensive radiator. Most of the time if you put the three digits "4x4" Infront of most marques things get expensive really quickly. So.....
Make sure you find one with tons of history that points out regular maintenance and if possibly owned by one person since new (rare find)....or a minimal amount of owners.
Good luck and patience will help to find "your" perfect bus!!:cool:;)
 
gold rover said:
That has got to be in the running for one of the funniest comments ever, on this site, possibly any Range Rover site. View attachment 169628


As for the other parts, I will agree to disagree with you and repeat, you do not have to do spannering yourself. I've managed to keep mine for almost 9 years now. I have done one job myself, I changed the headlamp lens. Which I think was about 8 years ago. Just because I am an enthusiast doesn't automatically mean I'm climbing over, under and through her , when problems crop up.
So each time you say owners must do their own spannering, have somewhere to work/store tools and must have diagnostics, I'm sure you'll understand when I pipe up with , there is no must about it.
I can't be the only owner who, with the exception of a little sealer a couple of weeks ago, doesn't work on their vehicle.
Click to expand...

I most humbly bow to your greater knowledge of all things Range Rover.

The forum can now close as it's not needed!

If only I had known years back. I could have taken the P38 to a specialist for the EAS and got a new set of air bags, a compressor and valve block rather than the few quid I spent on the Datatek cable and fix the problem for a few quid.

Or I could have been told to put it on coils. Silly me.

If only I had known. i could have spent many hundreds instead twenty odd quid and an hour of time. silly me.

Maybe I'll take the L322 into a garage to have them fix the reverse camera for £500 + Labour plus VAT rather than the £15 and an hour to do it myself. silly me.

Oh and a pity I didn't take the P38 to a garage to get the HGs done for more than the value of the car rather than £200 in parts and 10 hours of time. silly me.

Like i say. i bow to your greater knowledge.
 
Last edited:
I got my P38a 6 years ago from a bloke who was quoted funny money to get 2 rear air suspension bags fitted. I replaced all 4 for not a lot. I enjoy tinkering with the rangie, though sometimes I am pulling my hair out or scratching my head because I can't get to the bottom of a fault. That's where this forum and its members come up trumps. The advice and knowledge I have received in the past has been excellent and has saved me lots of money. Owning a range rover sure is a learning curve.
 
Horses for corses I’m no mechanic as warmmers will confirm I try to do some repairs but if you can afford to get the job that needs doing done bye a professional because you haven’t either got the tools or the knowledge then in my book better to get it repaired properly but as someone already said get a spare car because these aren’t reliable enough for a daily driver
 
ukadamwest said:
I most humbly bow to your greater knowledge of all things Range Rover.

The forum can now close as it's not needed!

If only I had known years back. I could have taken the P38 to a specialist for the EAS and got a new set of air bags, a compressor and valve block rather than the few quid I spent on the Datatek cable and fix the problem for a few quid.

Or I could have been told to put it on coils. Silly me.

If only I had known. i could have spent many hundreds instead twenty odd quid and an hour of time. silly me.

Maybe I'll take the L322 into a garage to have them fix the reverse camera for £500 + Labour plus VAT rather than the £15 and an hour to do it myself. silly me.

Oh and a pity I didn't take the P38 to a garage to get the HGs done for more than the value of the car rather than £200 in parts and 10 hours of time. silly me.

Like i say. i bow to your greater knowledge.
Click to expand...
Is this yours?
dummy-1024x1024.jpg

It was found floating past the International Space Station, where you spat it so hard.
All that because I agreed to disagree. Hell what would you have done if I had just disagreed. rolling-on-the-floor-laughing.png
 
pete12345 said:
Horses for corses I’m no mechanic as warmmers will confirm I try to do some repairs but if you can afford to get the job that needs doing done bye a professional because you haven’t either got the tools or the knowledge then in my book better to get it repaired properly but as someone already said get a spare car because these aren’t reliable enough for a daily driver
Click to expand...
Sometimes it's not about not having the tools, or not having the expertise. There are other factors that can come in to play , which mean that someone pays to get the work done. Personally, I've done my fair share of working on my cars over the years. I now cannot, so I don't. :)
 
Well, that escalated quite quickly. didn't it?
As someone with a foot in both camps can I offer my perspective without incurring wrath?
I love the P38, always have. I invested in a Nanocom and have fixed some of the annoying set-up issues that were not to my liking and determined which of the ABS sensors were throwing a fault and replaced it (all by myself (big bloody deal), I have also replaced my drivers door latch-set and fitted the RF filter that prevents the battery from going flat in 2 days.
But! If a more taxing issue were to develop I would probably do an initial diagnosis with Nanocom and the "brains-trust" of this forum and then decide whether the required work is within my skill-set and my physical capabilities and the tools I own.
I might choose to take a task on, OR, I might think I'd rather get my local Indie to do it. THE CHOICE IS MINE. I am not forced to spanner. I might choose to, if the Indie quote made my hair stand on end.
There are no rules I think.
 
Some people are thrill seekers with RR's :D

I myself am a Agony seeker with any car!! I like to go on the roller coaster of

It runs but it won't drive :confused:

It's fixed but it's not fast. :confused:

Now it's fast and then it broke ;) :confused:

:D

Diagnostics and mechanic's depends on skill tool availability and the want to do it..

If it has to work every day 100% then most don't have the time to DIY.

When it's ****ing down outside and freezing, ya know the want to fix anything can wain.

Again 50/50.
 
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