Need a bit of advice...

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Cherrytree Jed

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Cambridgeshire
I've recently acquired a 'Barn find' 94(?) Defender 110, I have yet to start it, it hasn't been run since 09, is there anything I need to check/do before I attach the jump leads? It's the 5 speed Diesel TDI
Secondly, there is a large rust hole in the front bulkhead, from the bottom of the windscreen down the drivers side to the top door hinge and running underneath the block that secures the windscreen panel, I'll try to post pics, but I'm wondering if I could just fill it? Or cut and shape some aluminium to cover the hole and rivet to the decent bodywork?
Be grateful for any input, cheers, Jed
 
Cherrytree Jed said:
I've recently acquired a 'Barn find' 94(?) Defender 110, I have yet to start it, it hasn't been run since 09, is there anything I need to check/do before I attach the jump leads? It's the 5 speed Diesel TDI
Secondly, there is a large rust hole in the front bulkhead, from the bottom of the windscreen down the drivers side to the top door hinge and running underneath the block that secures the windscreen panel, I'll try to post pics, but I'm wondering if I could just fill it? Or cut and shape some aluminium to cover the hole and rivet to the decent bodywork?
Be grateful for any input, cheers, Jed
Click to expand...
Drain all fuel from tank, change fuel filters, blow out fuel lines, check air filter for mice nests, check radiator, change oil and filter. Vehicle sitting in barns get condensation in the fluids. Turn engine over to build up oil pressure before you let it fire up
 
And no you can't just fill or pop rivet over bulkhead rot. It's structural and needs seam welding.

You can get repair sections but if it's that bad it'll need replacing which is a pita
 
Like BB says^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^, bulkhead should be repaired with steel! And have a good look over the tyres and rubber components if it has been sat for ages.
You may have an interesting time trying to free the clutch and brakes too!
 
image.jpg
Here's a photo of the damage
 
Cherrytree Jed said:
Here's a photo of the damage
Click to expand...

What is visible at the moment is repairable. You can get a door pillar kit to weld in, and then plate it to the good meatal and finish.

Bad news is, you need to take a small hammer, or pointed object, and tap all around that to reveal the true extent of the damage!
By the time you have done that, it will have opened up a lot more hole than that! ;) :D
 
Looks like you have an interesting project there. On there there are quite a number of threads of people welding patches on corroded bulkheads that you might want to look at for inspiration, and with the corrosion you've shown there, it looks like it would be repairable. The opposite corner ma\y well have gone too, so worth a check. The footwells, and much of the A post can rust in a similar way. Have a good scrape through the old paint, filler and loose rust and you'll get a clearer idea of what needs doing.
 
Ha ha, I'll post more pics, luckily it's had new floor pans at some point, I took out the carpets ;) there does seem to be a leak on the drive shaft and the rubber seal around the windscreen has rotted, I did go around the rest of the bodywork with a small hammer, anything that looked 'bubbled' and found they were mostly stone chips, all in all looks like a fun project!
 
Cherrytree Jed said:
Ha ha, I'll post more pics, luckily it's had new floor pans at some point, I took out the carpets ;) there does seem to be a leak on the drive shaft and the rubber seal around the windscreen has rotted, I did go around the rest of the bodywork with a small hammer, anything that looked 'bubbled' and found they were mostly stone chips, all in all looks like a fun project!
Click to expand...

The rest of the bodywork is ally and isn't going to rust away anytime soon :)

It's the chassis you need to be concerned with other than the bulkhead.

Get underneath with the hammer
 
Thor1950 said:
White rust, bottom of doors;)
Click to expand...

No such thing as white rust.

What yu might see is Aluminium Hydroxide corrosion, which can be cleaned by treating superficially corroded areas with a 10 percent solution of chromic acid and sulfuric acid. Apply the solution by swab or brush. Scrub the corroded area with the brush while it is still damp. While chromic acid is a good inhibitor for aluminum alloys, even when corrosion products have not been completely removed; it is important that the solution penetrate to the bottom of all pits and underneath any corrosion that may be present. Thorough brushing with a stiff brush should loosen or remove most existing corrosion and assure complete penetration of the inhibitor into crevices and pits. Allow the chromic acid to remain in place for at least 5 minutes, then remove the excess by flushing with water or wiping with a wet cloth.
 
Last edited:
The Mad Hat Man said:
No such thing as white rust.

What yu might see is Aluminium Hydroxide corrosion, which can be cleaned by treating superficially corroded areas with a 10 percent solution of chromic acid and sulfuric acid. Apply the solution by swab or brush. Scrub the corroded area with the brush while it is still damp. While chromic acid is a good inhibitor for aluminum alloys, even when corrosion products have not been completely removed; it is important that the solution penetrate to the bottom of all pits and underneath any corrosion that may be present. Thorough brushing with a stiff brush should loosen or remove most existing corrosion and assure complete penetration of the inhibitor into crevices and pits. Allow the chromic acid to remain in place for at least 5 minutes, then remove the excess by flushing with water or wiping with a wet cloth.
Click to expand...
Don't get all fookin technical. A search of white rust on aluminum will explain it, in much simpler terms:p
 
Thor1950 said:
Don't get all fookin technical. A search of white rust on aluminum will explain it, in much simpler terms:p
Click to expand...


Dont be an arse. Rust is a colloquilism for Ferrous Oxide - or steel corrosion. you wouldnt call a banana a melon so why use the incorrect terminology for corrosion products.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Dont be an arse. Rust is a colloquilism for Ferrous Oxide - or steel corrosion. you wouldnt call a banana a melon so why use the incorrect terminology for corrosion products.
Click to expand...
Bit like mole grips/vise grips used as generic for technically they are adjustable locking pliers. or how a adjustable spanner/wrench is referred to as a crescent wrench:p
 
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