Nearside side lights - red/black cable providing no power

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AJofShabby

AJofShabby

Member
Posts
78
Location
UK
Hi all

I have bought an old 110 which needed a bit of TLC. Clutch has been fixed, brakes now working and the majority of the electrical probs fixed. I have one final issue. The nr side sidelights won't work. It isn't an earth issue as the rear brake light works. I have also fitted a new front sidelight. I have used my limited multimeter experience and compared to the working rear brake light which shows there is no power at either front or rear for the red/black wire. I have changed fuses. I have checked the rear of the fusebox and the red/black connection seems solid. As there is little of the R/B cable actually exposed does anyone have any ideas how to find the issue?

Thanks
AJ
 
AJofShabby said:
Hi all

I have bought an old 110 which needed a bit of TLC. Clutch has been fixed, brakes now working and the majority of the electrical probs fixed. I have one final issue. The nr side sidelights won't work. It isn't an earth issue as the rear brake light works. I have also fitted a new front sidelight. I have used my limited multimeter experience and compared to the working rear brake light which shows there is no power at either front or rear for the red/black wire. I have changed fuses. I have checked the rear of the fusebox and the red/black connection seems solid. As there is little of the R/B cable actually exposed does anyone have any ideas how to find the issue?

Thanks
AJ
Click to expand...

Check for power at the fuse, and make sure the fuse is actually touching the terminals. After that, it’s checking multiplugs.
 
Is there a multi plug on the driver engine bay bulkhead as this may the the issue if there is no power to either end? Or could a short cause this? I hate electrics!
 
what year and engine spec is the vehicle . are you getting voltage on the feed side of fuse holder depending on what year glass or blade fuses ? if glass fuses would suggest cleaning the oxidisation off the fuse holder contacts
 
master-copy1986-on-png.121516
 
a 12 volt bulb and holder two short pieces of red and black wire and a inline fuse holder and fuse fitted in the red side if it lights it live if it doesn't it not (NOT RECOMMENDED ON MODERN LAND ROVERS UNLESS YOU HAVE A UNLIMITED SUPPLY OF ECU'S)
 
Apologies for vehicle info - 1988 110 w/200TDI Def engine. The wiring diag is amazing. Thanks. I will clean the fuse holder and test with my multimeter after my evening of YouTube training sessions.What could go wrong? I will then try to chase the wiring from the rear nr side across to rear driver side, then check the bulkhead plugs. Still hate electrics. As always, thanks everyone.
 
Ok. So cleaned up fuse mount. There is 12v across mount, same as for the driver side fuse above. But when I insert a fuse (that has been checked) then voltage drops to 0v. I have swapped fuses around so I know it isn't a fuse problem. Could it be the connection at the rear of the fuse mount?
 
AJofShabby said:
Ok. So cleaned up fuse mount. There is 12v across mount, same as for the driver side fuse above. But when I insert a fuse (that has been checked) then voltage drops to 0v. I have swapped fuses around so I know it isn't a fuse problem. Could it be the connection at the rear of the fuse mount?
Click to expand...

Are you measuring across the fuse? As in red multimeter wire on one side and black on the other? If so, that is correct. The multimeter is measuring the potential difference from one wire to the other, specifically the voltage terminal (usually red) to the common terminal (usually black). What you need to do is put the black wire onto the battery negative, or any earth connection, and prod around with the red wire. Make notes of where the 12v is. That will tell you what is live and what isn’t.
 
OK. So latest: Rear sidelight was not working as it was being fused out by the number plate lamp. All now OK at the rear. We now also have the front sidelight working BUT the passenger side circuit is drawing 2.4A where as the driver side is drawing 0.9A. Disconnecting the front pass sidelight and the circuit draws 0.8A, so about 0.4A for rear side and number plate light. What shd the draw be for the passenger side circuit as it shd run a 2.5A fuse and 2.4A means the fuse is hot to touch compared to the driver side? Thanks
 
Part 2. So, breaking components down, both the number plate light and rear side draw about 0.5A apiece but the front passenger sidelight draws 1.5A ish. What could cause that? i have tested different earth incl one on the battery to no avail.
 
AJofShabby said:
Part 2. So, breaking components down, both the number plate light and rear side draw about 0.5A apiece but the front passenger sidelight draws 1.5A ish. What could cause that? i have tested different earth incl one on the battery to no avail.
Click to expand...

How are you measuring current?

I think you should be using 5W bulbs, so remove the ones fitted and see if someone has fitted a 10W in its place.
 
There will be imbalance between the two circuits because of the number plate lamps are you on the correct terminals and position for dc current
TESTING.png
 
Blimey. Thanks for everyone’s help. The joys of Defender electrics. Once number plate wires had been reseated about 59 times, then taped to the nth degree, I found the amperage issue - wrong bulb fitted by previous owner. Explains the 5A fuse. It was a 21W bulb which accounted for the 1.75A draw. Having chased wires up and down the chassis all afternoon the correct bulb is now installed! Now need to book in for an MOT.
 
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