Nanocom "02-01" ABS code

Hello there,
My ABS light is constantly on and I get the following Nanocom error message:-
02-01
no battery supply voltage
02 times
The ABS fuse is OK and the Hand brake warning light has also come on. When I clear the Error Codes the Hand brake light will go away but not the ABS and after a short time the Hand brake light comes back on.

Any help, muchly appreciated.

Do we take it this is on your D2 TD5?

Hi, what about the rest of the 3 amigos warnings(HDC, TC), do you see them on ignition self test? cos for that fault code those warnings must be on as well unless they are dissabled also if you have SLS all the related warnings should be on as well. Go with nanocom in the SLABS - inputs and see "battery v" and "internal ECU supply v" then report the results

Stanleysteamer said:

Do we take it this is on your D2 TD5?

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Yes

No 3

sierrafery said:

Hi, what about the rest of the 3 amigos warnings(HDC, TC), do you see them on ignition self test? cos for that fault code those warnings must be on as well unless they are dissabled also if you have SLS all the related warnings should be on as well. Go with nanocom in the SLABS - inputs and see "battery v" and "internal ECU supply v" then report the results

Click to expand...

No 3 Amigos this time, my old friends !!! The battery voltage in the SLABS is 13.8 and the ECU Internal Supply is 0. Mmmmm, I have just spliced in a wire from the engine fusebox to the IDM and maybe have disturbed the ECU/ABS power supply. Any ideas ? and thanks for all the help do far.

jalmassi said:

No 3 Amigos this time,

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Dont make me ask things twice please if you want help, i also asked if you see the TC/HDC lights on ignition self test(when you turn ignotion on) which is important information for this issue

jalmassi said:

The ABS fuse is OK

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there are two fuses for SLABS, F28 interior fusebox and F11 engine bay, are both OK?

jalmassi said:

I have just spliced in a wire from the engine fusebox to the IDM

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be specific what you did and why

Sorry, missed your 3 Amigos point. Yes all lights are on for the ignition test. F11 is fine and I will check F28 when I get home tonight.

A few weeks aho She started flashing the engine check light once and then the hazards would start flashing. Engine would still run though. So turn off, exit car, central lock, unlock and start engine. All would then be OK for a while. The solution was splicing a wire from C0605 (brwn/grey) in the engine bay fuse box to C0586 in the cabin fuse box. Sorted the ‘hazards’ problem and led to my current one Hope it’s just that F28 fuse.

As long as all you did was to restore the circuit from C0605-4 to C0586-12 which was supposed to be hardwired anyway that would have not affected anything provided you didnt splice into other NG wire. Seems that the harness is chafed somewhere between the engine bay and interior fusebox and maybe other circuit is hurt too albeit with that fault code and the warning lamps behaviour at this time the SLABS ECU is very suspect too cos all the 3 amigos should be on

Well F28 is also fine. Too late now to do any more. I can check if there´s any power on it tomorrow.

I must have disturbed something....damn. Did I mention the handbrake warning is also staying on. I can get rid of it temporarily by going into the SLSABS but it always comes back. This just started with the constant ABS light after I had spliced in the new wire.

Maybe because you jiggled the harness to splice in the wires and it got interrupted on other circuit too if it's damaged and the SLABS misses one feed but then the 3 amigos should be all on, the "handbrake" light is part of the ABS protocol too... check for voltage against body at SLABS C0504 pins 1and 2 with igntion on and if you have power on both of them the ECU is definitely fubar cos according to the fault code one of those feeds is missing

In addition to the above the lamp called "brake" in the diagnostics chart is the "handbrake" light, which actually comes on for low brake fluid too and should be on every time with the 3 amigos but in reality it comes together with them usually for "solid" open or short circuit faults

Well interesting readings I think. With ignition on; Pin 1 7.9V, Pin 2 11.9V. With engine running Pin 1 9.4V
I hope this means something to you...!!! and thanks again for all the help.

Means that it's not OK for some reason, check the voltage on fuses F11 and F28 in situ with igntion on, you can measure on the small metal pin on the fuse with thin probe

F11 was good, I´d checked that before but F28 was new to me and it´s getting 0V.

I wonder where I must have broken the circuit...!!!

If F28 is not blown and you get 0V both sides of it the problem is within the fusebox cos it gets feed directly from ignition on the yellow wire (C0028-5) which connects to the front of the fusebox in that brown plug...unless that yellow wire is "dead" too but this would cause more issues

That’s fantastic, thanks for that. I’ll check it out tomorrow.

Good power to the yellow and after plugging it back in I got power to F28. I’ll check to see if I disturbed any of the plugs behind the fuse box and if still low volts at the Wabvo I’ll splice in a fused power line. Plan A anyway

jalmassi said:

Good power to the yellow and after plugging it back in I got power to F28

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AAA-ha... if you unplugged the br`own plug then normally couldnt have power on the fuses cos it's the ignition feed to the box ...all the measurements must be done with plugs connected in this case, the output from F28 is hardwired to SLABS from C0587-2 on the back of the fusebox so eventually undo the bolt and you can turn it few degrees to measure there with a bit of contorsionism and if there is not the same voltage as on the fuse replace the fusebox dont mess with wires cos it's useless as there can be other bad contacts within which are affecting more systems