Series 3 mot fail

honolulujoe said:

parked on a slope with handbrake on and I couldn't move it by pushing, hardly an empirical test though, but I should have thought it was good enough as far as it goes.

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I'm not sure how they test the parking brake these days but they used to lift the vehicle off the deck - apply the hand brake and then try and turn a back wheel. If they still do it this way then the back wheel's gonna spin isn't it. You might have to explain to them about the drum being at the back of the gearbox.

well if it fails again when/if I go back I shall want them to show me how they did it

all depends if I can do it all within the free retest period certainly won't be crossing their palms with any more silver

Did my front shocks last weekend just before my mot. Easy job - 40 minutes per side. Shocks were only £15 each but best to fit all new nuts bolts washers etc. Make sure shocks come with new bushes.

I would definitely be put off using that garage again. The failure reasons will be on the electronic system but don't see why that would be a problem.

These guys are near you and might have more understanding of the expectations of an older vehicle:

Never used them but just came across them
http://crownclassiccars.co.uk/contact-us/1267938

40 mins a side doesn't sound bad I was going to get the shocks from dingocroft, more or less the same price you paid

thx for the heads up on crown

do I need to get one of those dial test thingies to do the chain?

Parking brake should be fully on in three clicks of ratchet. And should travel no more than five clicks.

wammers said:

Parking brake should be fully on in three clicks of ratchet. And should travel no more than five clicks.

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thx for the info

it is now I have adjusted it. I am sure they didn't actually test it last year, apart from the shocks the things they highlighted are no different from how it was last year so I guess I was lucky.

honolulujoe said:

do I need to get one of those dial test thingies to do the chain?

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You can do it with a plastic drinking straw and a lump of Plasticine if required.

Thats how I did mine. But I did have a childs bedroom to raid.

Cut straw in two. cut a point in one half.
Lay the pointed piece across the tappet arm and fix with plasticine.
Stand the other vertically on the edge of the cylinder head. in plasticine as a scale.
Find the sweet spot on the cam by rotating engine and marking the vertical straw.
Easy.

You should end up with a high mark and a low one. Just set it between the two.

thx.

just checked the tappets and all seem fine - like I have a clue what I am doing - a couple of them are tighter to get the feeler in but it goes in. there is a slight play in the rockers which I assume is normal?

honolulujoe said:

thx.

just checked the tappets and all seem fine - like I have a clue what I am doing - a couple of them are tighter to get the feeler in but it goes in. there is a slight play in the rockers which I assume is normal?

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Lesson one.
Undo them all except No. 1 .
When your rotating the engine to find your sweet spot you will just about get there when................. clonk..................... one of the springs will pull the ruddy thing past it and your starting all over again.
Easier to loosen them all off to take the spring out of them.

once sorted you can set them all.

Just wait till your trying to find the mark on the flywheel. Hope your eyes are good.

There is more than one

typical

trying to persuade the rusted bolts on the bottom of the front panel to let go

honolulujoe said:

and they called it a land rover deffender their spelling

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could be worse they might have called it an offender

honolulujoe said:

typical

trying to persuade the rusted bolts on the bottom of the front panel to let go

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Had to cut Most of mine off and fabricate new straps for the side ones. Did em in stainless. The originals had a light coat of tin but not enough.

Bobsticle said:

Had to cut Most of mine off and fabricate new straps for the side ones. Did em in stainless. The originals had a light coat of tin but not enough.

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got em off eventually, just taking it slow with a big breaker bar. of course I now have to undo all the electrics that go through the panel. bet the lights won't work when I put it back together

doodle bug said:

could be worse they might have called it an offender

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think it gassing the place out has offended some locals

honolulujoe said:

do I need to get one of those dial test thingies to do the chain?

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Well it depends what you want to check whilst you are there I guess - I personally would be checking the end float on the camshaft at the very least. (I assume you are changing the sprockets and the guides as well as the chain?)

Stretch said:

Well it depends what you want to check whilst you are there I guess - I personally would be checking the end float on the camshaft at the very least. (I assume you are changing the sprockets and the guides as well as the chain?)

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this is my first time at doing a chain, I did the cambelt on a mk3 Cortina back in the early eighties during my impecunious student days

as I have a chain I thought I would see if I could get away with just doing that.

mais ou est le front panel



don't think I will be getting offered a pits job the time it took me to get it off

Fancy showing us a picture of him with his pants down.
Poor thing.