Disco 2 MOT fail, front body mount

Support the body, cut the whole lot out. ,weld in a new body mount ,refit body mount rubber.
Depending on how far you have to cut to get to solid metal for welding in the new mount you may have to remove the body from the chassis to be able to get into it properly.
If you do have to remove the body which I suspect you will have to you may as well redo all the body mounts and probably other areas .
Looking at the pics it's not good and looks extremely corroded.


Good luck

Rock Basher said:

Support the body, cut the whole lot out. ,weld in a new body mount ,refit body mount rubber.
Depending on how far you have to cut to get to solid metal for welding in the new mount you may have to remove the body from the chassis to be able to get into it properly.
If you do have to remove the body which I suspect you will have to you may as well redo all the body mounts and probably other areas .
Looking at the pics it's not good and looks extremely corroded.


Good luck

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Thank you.

PopPops said:

Although the surrounding metal is pretty sound, access is a real problem, I can't get my angle grinder anywhere near it. I can get the MIG torch into the area, but I would need to clean and prepare the area first. I played around a little with a Dremel and various grinding attachments, but it is very slow progress.

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You might want to consider using a decent multitool with a carbide blade

PopPops said:

^^ thank you +^^

A good starting point. If only that plate at the bottom of the wheel arch wasn’t there, this would be fairy easy. I did wonder about cutting it out and welding it back in later, but that’s another set of problems…

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No harm in doing that, if it speeds the job up and makes it easier, why not?
Once off you could make any examination and repairs to the part removed easier and thus weld back on a part that was better than before, as well as being able to carry out the rest of the repair better.

Stanleysteamer said:

No harm in doing that, if it speeds the job up and makes it easier, why not?
Once off you could make any examination and repairs to the part removed easier and thus weld back on a part that was better than before, as well as being able to carry out the rest of the repair better.

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Yes, I see the point, often more is less!

Looking at the original pic, it looks to me as if it has already been patched and said patch is just fixed in a few places with no more than tack welds, Or do I need to go to spec savers (again )

If that is the case it would be fairly easy to remove it. Then Patch again. It would then buy you enough time.
If you do patch it then treat it as best you can to buy as much time as poss.
At the end of the day it will need some extensive work to get rid of all the rot, but sometimes needs must.

J

Rock Basher said:

Well that's a mess .
Anyone who has half a clue about welding will tell you that body is end of life.
Also the state that's in I would put a full tube of smarties on it the rest of the vehicle body is absolutely FUBAR...

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What an absolute load of baloney, it requires a simple localised repair for years more life.

Milwaukee M12 die grinder with double cut carbide bits.
Awesome tool that has a multitude of uses.

Interceptorxj said:

What an absolute load of baloney, it requires a simple localised repair for years more life.

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That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.

Interceptorxj said:

What an absolute load of baloney, it requires a simple localised repair for years more life.

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Thank you! I can’t get to it for a week or so now, but I’ll kept all informed.

Rock Basher said:

That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.

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Well, I hadn’t expected to start a war(!), but when I can get further with it, either handing to a professional or trusting my own welding, I’ll let you all know.

PopPops said:

Well, I hadn’t expected to start a war(!), but when I can get further with it, either handing to a professional or trusting my own welding, I’ll let you all know.

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Cool
When it's all cut out post pics before welding.

Rock Basher said:

That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.

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Well yes of course. Any welding is a major change from the certificate of conformity and should be banned unless you can xray each and every weld while using certified steel for QA purposes

In all seriousness. If there was a major issue, that would be on the MOT failure sheet.
Just cut out/patch/replace as required. The body will twist/crack/distort in a collision whether patched or not.
People repair structural parts all the time without problems

lynall said:

Milwaukee M12 die grinder with double cut carbide bits.
Awesome tool that has a multitude of uses.

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I’m getting one from Santa.

meego said:

I’m getting one from Santa.

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The angled one has quite a kick if using in a hole only slightly bigger than the cardbife bit.
I wish I had bought the straight version as I think that would be more useful for tight spaces.

lynall said:

The angled one has quite a kick if using in a hole only slightly bigger than the cardbife bit.
I wish I had bought the straight version as I think that would be more useful for tight spaces.

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I’m wanting it more for sanding with the 2” disc holder thing.

meego said:

I’m wanting it more for sanding with the 2” disc holder thing.

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In that case it will be perfect.
I have been using mine with some 25mm surface finishing discs, and it did a very nice job, very controllable.

Battery life is excellent as well, so don't get the 4/6amp if you don't need them, the 2ah does the job, downside of the 2ah is you cannot stand it upright.

lynall said:

In that case it will be perfect.
I have been using mine with some 25mm surface finishing discs, and it did a very nice job, very controllable.

Battery life is excellent as well, so don't get the 4/6amp if you don't need them, the 2ah does the job, downside of the 2ah is you cannot stand it upright.

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I’m watching a couple of 4ah on eBay. I already have one for my small impact wrench though. I was thinking the 2 would help get into tighter spaces if needed as well !!

meego said:

I’m watching a couple of 4ah on eBay. I already have one for my small impact wrench though. I was thinking the 2 would help get into tighter spaces if needed as well !!

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Will at least one of you beggars at least put a pic or two up so the ignorami among us have a clue?