mantec spare wheel carrier restoration

hey guys,

I got a wheel carrier yesterday, and it was seroiusly corroded, but seems solid enough, after beating it with a hammer.

I have got an eletric sander on it. One side where you pop the wheel I think is ready to be pained, just still got more work on other side.

Ill pop some pictures on, do you think im going overboard, or not enough?



a little bit closer



This is the other side which has only had little prep. thats me dw40 ready to take of the white bit, so can get at the surface better




a little closer again




these are the products im using (hammerite anti rust primer and then hammerite direct to rust metal paint smooth black)



would you say I prob dont need to use the anti rust primer? I assume this can be applied ontop of rust? it doesnt actually say, like the other direct to rust metal paint. I thought as I had sanded to metal in places I might need the primer.

Any suggestions, or comments I would be happy to receive.

probably a touch over the top for a girly

haha cheeky monkey! no need for the anti rust primer then you thinks? or no need for such sanding down?

to be completely honest, what you are doing is very good and will ensure that the wheel carrier will outlast your car, good work i say . go girl go girl go girl

thanks Bev, im gona call it a day with the sanding, its been about 4 hours now! hmm. I like to do things properly! I might take everything apart on the landy and clean it like the wheel carrier. I have tommorrow free, hmmmm lol. Girl power!

like your attitude girlfriend

I'd have thought you'd want to go a fair bit further with the rust removal.
The rust looks like it has taken a hold so I'd get out the grinder with wire brush attachment at the very least - then use a chemical killer before going on to a rust underneath primer such as bonda rust.

I think that hammerite one is more of a rust preventing high zinc primer rather than a 'top of rust' paint.

If you're going this far - I'd go the whole hog.

Out of interest - can you tell me the tube diameter and wall thickness?
About 25mm dia 1.5mm thickness?

arc said:

I'd have thought you'd want to go a fair bit further with the rust removal.
The rust looks like it has taken a hold so I'd get out the grinder with wire brush attachment at the very least - then use a chemical killer before going on to a rust underneath primer such as bonda rust.

I think that hammerite one is more of a rust preventing high zinc primer rather than a 'top of rust' paint.

If you're going this far - I'd go the whole hog.

Out of interest - can you tell me the tube diameter and wall thickness?
About 25mm dia 1.5mm thickness?

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i'd have thought she was doing enough, how long is it supposed to last?

the pipe on mine is 40mm can't tell you wall thickness without attacking it with grinder, but would guess at least 2mm.

If it was me that was doin' it up, ah'd get the rusty bits back tae shiny metal afore ah primed and painted it

act. just checked, yes to 40mm for dia, but wall thickness is nearer 3mm, while the flat surface, that bares the 3 pins is 4mm. pretty strong bit of kit!

I worked the rust down further, but I didn't make it all shiney. I was thinking if I had a grinder, this job would have been done alot sooner and yeah better. Im sure ill get some years out of it still. Given it 4 layers of primer and will give it two of the direct to rust black paint tommorrow. Should look smart.

good job there, like buster said, back to bare metal is the best but on the whole it will last a good many years the way you have done it, a rotary wire brush i find is the best , if used right and for long enough it will remove anything,

i use these where i can, removes most things as good as sand blasting

good effort. mine needs doing to, fancy doing another one?

G

yeah I was checking out some grinders the other day, but I dont know really what to look for, high wattage?. Im also thinking of getting a compressor, so can spray under chasis, and maybe do a paint job on the landy. Is there any you would recomend? Or are they really just a fancy tool? I have seen cheap and expensive, but I wouldn't want to get a cheapy one then realise it was crap or the attachment cost more, cos less common or what have you

RUDDdefender90 said:

yeah I was checking out some grinders the other day, but I dont know really what to look for, high wattage?. Im also thinking of getting a compressor, so can spray under chasis, and maybe do a paint job on the landy. Is there any you would recomend? Or are they really just a fancy tool? I have seen cheap and expensive, but I wouldn't want to get a cheapy one then realise it was crap or the attachment cost more, cos less common or what have you

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grinders are a must have really, as all attachments fit, go for a 4.5" as they are most comon for discs and sanding pads,

Bosch GWS6-115 115"Angle Grinder 240V - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

price is bout right on them too £40 - 50 for a good one that will last

as for compressors, the HP is to look out for as is the reciever capacity
aroung 50 ltr for spraying an running tools, go for a wolf air or clarke

Sumo 1.5hp 24Ltr Compressor - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

the bigger the better really, all depends what yer want to do with it

cheers for that mate, very helpful. Aint sure about doing another quite yet! Maybe if you buy me the grinder and gear ill make it look neat and tidy for ya, like new!!

I got a Makita Grinder in Cash Converters for £25 bargain. Used it lots changing the 4 springs on my 2a lightweight.

I use the drill with wire brush attachments and the grinder for cutting/severe sanding

G

I got a Black & Decker Proline (now Dewalt) about 20 years ago, and apart from the brushes going in first 2 weeks (must have been a faulty batch), it's given faultless service since, on the same set of replacement brushes, and it's had some serious use.

Just wear a face shield when using a grinder with rotary cup brush. When the wires come out - they seriously hurt when they hit your face.

Anyone else thought they've been embedded?!

arc said:

Just wear a face shield when using a grinder with rotary cup brush. When the wires come out - they seriously hurt when they hit your face.

Anyone else thought they've been embedded?!

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i seem to get loads stick in me overalls , round the leg area when wire brushing chassis etc, they stick in yer legs , some times all the way in and take some pulling out :doh:

Oh and dont grinding in a fleece.......they dont like it