Maintenance can be a bad thing !!

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Andyp38

Active Member
Posts
150
Location
Bridport,Dorset..
Decided yesterday to change the anti freeze in my p38,as it was very week strength wise.
Anyway job done quickly and no air locks in system,perfect :D
Well no :(

Today whilst resetting the cruise control switch above the brake pedal switch, i noticed i now have a few drips of my fresh new blue anti freeze right below the heater matrix pipes :mad:

I did notice when i drained out the old anti freeze,that there was some golden looking particle substance in my drain bucket !
Guess now that someone had put something along the lines of rad weld in the system to try and block up the heater matrix o rings in the past,as it didnt leak before the coolant change :(

On the plus side,my cruise control works again now :D:D

Ive now searched and read as many internet threads (not just on here)on changing the matrix o rings, and have a good idea on what sort of a ball ache its going to be.

Still have a few questions though for those in the know:

Do i have to disconnect the battery,once i start the job i will not be using the rangey again until its fixed ?

Is it best to put a bit of silicone sealant around the new o rings or surrounding area,to prevent furthur leaks from else where ?

Has anyone got any other advice not mentioned in old posts on here,or rangerovers.net ? (Long shot,but thought i would try :D )

Cheers,Andy..
 
Erm I didn't dosconnect my battery on the twice I have done mine.

Couple of thinsg I have noticed is one of the big problems is the alignment of the pipe and getting a good seal.

On my most recent attempt as i was get frustarated I have also used some Loctite black gasket stuff around teh rings to help a little.

I am however at some point in the future going to swap my matrix for one without O rings, seen a couple of threads about it and there is someone else on here planning to do it next month so I am waiting to see how theres goes.
 
Andyp38 said:
Decided yesterday to change the anti freeze in my p38,as it was very week strength wise.
Anyway job done quickly and no air locks in system,perfect :D
Well no :(

Today whilst resetting the cruise control switch above the brake pedal switch, i noticed i now have a few drips of my fresh new blue anti freeze right below the heater matrix pipes :mad:

I did notice when i drained out the old anti freeze,that there was some golden looking particle substance in my drain bucket !
Guess now that someone had put something along the lines of rad weld in the system to try and block up the heater matrix o rings in the past,as it didnt leak before the coolant change :(

On the plus side,my cruise control works again now :D:D

Ive now searched and read as many internet threads (not just on here)on changing the matrix o rings, and have a good idea on what sort of a ball ache its going to be.

Still have a few questions though for those in the know:

Do i have to disconnect the battery,once i start the job i will not be using the rangey again until its fixed ?

Is it best to put a bit of silicone sealant around the new o rings or surrounding area,to prevent furthur leaks from else where ?

Has anyone got any other advice not mentioned in old posts on here,or rangerovers.net ? (Long shot,but thought i would try :D )

Cheers,Andy..
Click to expand...

You would be amazed at just where water with anti freeze can leak from that water without anti freeze does'nt. In the old days antifreeze was taken out in summer and put back in just before winter. It was vital to run engine until hot and check for leaks after the anti freeze was added. Favourite thing to leak was that bloody stupid pipe from head to block on BMC A series engines.
 
No way silicon sealant ! The new O rings will work perfectly if you fit them correctly, don't overtighten the clamp screw and make sure all mating faces are clean. Don't get too stressed over the job, it's not as bad as expected if you follow the guide over on Range rover net.
 
So the silicone sealant is off the list now :D

Apart from the dreaded screw on the matrix/o ring clamp, the job looks fiddly but fairly straight forward with the information on here.

Trouble is ive got big hands and rheumatoid arthritis,so i have to work fast before my hand/fingers swell up :doh:

Hence i will be taking a few days to do this i expect :)
 
Jamiehol said:
Erm I didn't dosconnect my battery on the twice I have done mine.

Couple of things I have noticed is one of the big problems is the alignment of the pipe and getting a good seal.
Click to expand...

The reason i ask about the battery is that on range.net walk through,they say that the srs/air bag multi plug has to be disconnected.
And i didnt want to risk getting a face full of air bag :D
But if you havent had any probs twice now,i presume i should be free from a dentist trip :D
 
Double pair of latex gloves always. Cheap Sharp bits of plastic and confined spaces are a real fecker on ya knuckles.
 
Andyp38 said:
The reason i ask about the battery is that on range.net walk through,they say that the srs/air bag multi plug has to be disconnected.
And i didnt want to risk getting a face full of air bag :D
But if you havent had any probs twice now,i presume i should be free from a dentist trip :D
Click to expand...

Personally i would disconnect battery before playing with any airbag. They are electrically discharged no electric, no discharge. Works every time.
 
rewmer said:
No way silicon sealant ! The new O rings will work perfectly if you fit them correctly, don't overtighten the clamp screw and make sure all mating faces are clean. Don't get too stressed over the job, it's not as bad as expected if you follow the guide over on Range rover net.
Click to expand...



PREACH BROTHER!
 
faint.gif
 
"Today whilst resetting the cruise control switch above the brake pedal switch, i noticed i now have a few drips of my fresh new blue anti freeze right below the heater matrix pipes :mad:"

If its a V8 RED anti freeze is better than BLUE. Blue isnt good for alloy engines so my local motor factor told me.
 
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