LSE Air suspension - front doesn't want to lower!!

Hi,

I did a recalibration using the Storey Wilson software and it works great going up from access to offroad height.

When i want to lower the vehicle, the back goes down but the front stays up.

I have the lowering button on the dash constanlty blinking quickly.

I have this problem using the dash controls or even with the software when i ask to depressurize airsprings... or to lower height.

The solenoids clicks but no action at all. I tried to swap the lowering and raising buttons with no success...it still blinks quick.

The basis is :

-brand new valve block on old drive box
-brand new compressor
-brand new height sensors
-tried 3 ECU units from LSE and P38

My bet on the drive box or the exhaust solenoid.

What do you think?

Florent

I'd be heading for the driver pack. As it's raising then the solenoids and valves must be operating to get the air in but not operating to release the air.

If the back goes down, that ought to rule out the exhaust solenoid as it must operate for the back to lower. Driver pack operates the valves for it to go up, as far as I can see it's the same circuit for it to go down. Have you looked at the actual height sensor readings?
Wammers knows more about the mechanics of the block than I do.

Datatek said:

If the back goes down, that ought to rule out the exhaust solenoid as it must operate for the back to lower. Driver pack operates the valves for it to go up, as far as I can see it's the same circuit for it to go down. Have you looked at the actual height sensor readings?
Wammers knows more about the mechanics of the block than I do.

Click to expand...

But if he's got the height selector light flashing then surely the ECU is trying to change height so is looking for a different input?

dogsbody said:

But if he's got the height selector light flashing then surely the ECU is trying to change height so is looking for a different input?

Click to expand...

Yes it's trying to change height but failing. Odd height sensor readings can cause strange happenings.
The only certain way to eliminate the driver pack, unless you have the facilities to scope the outputs, is to swap it for a known good one. Luckily I keep a couple of spare P38 ones for elimination purposes, don't know if the LSE is the same.

You don't have mixed up coil positions on valve block by any chance do you. Front should always drop first.

Range Rover Air Suspension Problems Help Page

Try this link, it shows which pins on the ecu do what. So you should be able to select front to lower.

wammers said:

You don't have mixed up coil positions on valve block by any chance do you. Front should always drop first.

Click to expand...

I don't think so because the block is a brand new item and because i can control each corner with the software. Each corner works allright up and down except the front.

The first day i connected the software i asked to fully depressurize the springs and i only got the rear deflated. Then i pressed the button again and finally got the front ones.

Looks like the front solenoid do not reply well.

I have dozens P38 drive box but do not know if those can work on LSE.

I'll try...

Test drove it today.

I set it on normal setting and blocked the height with the locking switch.

Drove perfectly during 50 km, then i stopped for a refill and it went high setting for no reason...

Then i had no way to lower it except with the manual valves fitted on the EAS box.

Removed fuse and pressed inhibit switch.

If only i could know if a P38 drive box can be used there.

996TURBO said:

Test drove it today.

I set it on normal setting and blocked the height with the locking switch.

Drove perfectly during 50 km, then i stopped for a refill and it went high setting for no reason...

Then i had no way to lower it except with the manual valves fitted on the EAS box.

Removed fuse and pressed inhibit switch.

If only i could know if a P38 drive box can be used there.

Click to expand...

If the connectors are the same and the wire colours correspond it's likely to work, the only real way to be sure would be to compare wiring diagrams.

You should be able to use a p38driver if you realise you that you may need to wire the pressure switch from the reservoir into the driver plug. As if I remember right the pressure switch is on the reservoir on the lse?
I can't remember to be honest!