Looking for a P38 - Advice Please

Hi all, I'm in the market for a new car and would very much like to get myself a P38A Range Rover.

I’m after a diesel 2.5 manual and preferably in dark blue or grey!

But anyway, I was wondering if any of you could tell me what to look out for when viewing one. I know that the EAS can be problematic and requires regular servicing. I’ve seen a couple of P38’s for sale with coil suspension after having it converted – is this a good or bad idea?

Also I’ve read that the HEVAC units can play up – could someone tell me what these actually are please? Sorry for being a bit thick!

Besides the above and of course checking for the good old Land Rover chassis rot (I own a Series 2A!) do you have any more advice for me before I go viewing some Rangies?

Many thanks.

Tom

Forget the coils, the EAS is fine if looked after. Chassis rot not a problem but brake line rot is. HEVAC is the heating aircon control. The main problem is not the unit but the blend motors that change temperature and direct the air. The aircon condensor is also a failure item.
Make sure there is no sign of overheating or it could need a new head, take it for a good run prefferably with a steep hill on the route. Make sure it starts easily when hot. Check the windows go up and down properly, no banging at the top. Then just check that every other button knob switch does what it is supposed to do and that the history is good. If it's had a lot of recent owners walk away.

try to stay away from coil springs they make for a bad ride and with new mot laws comeing out soon they may even become ilegal
the hevac is the console below the radio it controls the fans and air temp aswell as the heated seats check the disply works ,change temp on both sides seperatly make sure each zone getts hot and cold when its suppost to and that it directs the air where you want it
the eas should respond to hight ajustments within about 3 seconds but only when all the doors are closed
other things to look for are even ware between front and rear tyers (its a 4x4 so should ware even) if not could be signs of the transfer box going or just newer tyers on one end use carefull jugement
check the head gasket (its a very common problem) by letting it warm up and feel the radiator pipes if there rock solid walk away
check the front footwell carpets if there wet its the heater matrix thats leaking its a cheep job but a right pain in the ass to do
try and get one with 2 or more keys as there fooking expencive and the remote works from about 20 feet
other than that the diesels are a good motor but im sure by the end of the day ther'll be about a million post with things ive missed lol
GOOD LUCK

A good evening reading here will answer most if not all your questions, theres no diesel listed because its a US site and they can afford to buy petrol at their prices........

Index of Range Rover Mechanical Information

I have a DSE auto, and I LOVE it...

This is my 5th Range Rover and 3rd P38....albeit all my others were V8's....

I went for a diesel on this one for the mpg....the other half said I could get another, but it had to be a diesel, as running another V8 would cripple us.

The Diesels are slow....I once read a thread on here before I got mine the question was:

'Is the Diesel P38 really as slow as they say?'

Reply:

'No......it's slower...'

Made me grin at the time, until I drove one...and yes they are THAT slow....Give it the beans and it will be quite spritely, but it is not a rocketship so don't expect it to anything other than surprisingly slow and sluggish....

That being said the Autos are better suited to the M51 2.5 Diesel than the Manual version, the M51 doesn't really come on song until around 2200rpm, so if you are pulling up hill or with a heavy trailer, expect to slip the clutch a bit to get it moving.

The M51 is notorious for hating hot starts due to FIP timing chain stretch, you can get over it with a 'Fix' or pay a Bosch specialist to retime the Fuel Injection Pump.

If the EAS Suspension bags havn't been changed, expect to do those too, they have a life of around 80,000 miles or 7-8 years so could be showing signs of wearing by now.

The EAS system is (as the others have said) much better than coils...all coils suggest is lack of maintenance by the previous owner, keep up with the maintenance, and the EAS is fine. trace and fix all leaks when they happen and the compressor will be fine.

Datatek does do a good line in EAS Software and Leads, so PM him to grab one for a damn decent price - note to self, must PM Datatek -

The under bonnet fuse box can be a source of trouble so check that for smells of burning or tracking between contacts.

A good strong battery is needed in these beasts as a weak battery will cause allsorts of issues with the various ECUs the P38 has (Something like: BeCM, Engine, ABS, EAS, EAT, Transfer Box, 4x Door Outstations, Airbags etc) certainly a different beast to the Series vehicle you have currently.

The RF recieved is prone to picking up spurious signals causing battery drain - best to see if it has been changed for the new type - or disconnect the blue RF ariel lead.

Heater matrix O rings fail and leak into the drivers footwell....

Heater Blend Motors Fail.....

A neglected M51 will overheat causing head problems.....

Best resource is this forum...so once you get it...stick with us her etoo.