landrover 90 with 3.9 v8 flooding and wont start

hi all i have a defender 90 that i have put a 3.9 classic engine in and have had lots of running problems but they only started when the radiator light started to flash some time ago its had new distributor and relocated ign. new coil new temp switch.new throttle position switch.new leads new plugs .and more but it would start but you could not give it any revs and had to move it on idle. checked the injectors and found they was putting out a straight jet and not atomising.so bought 8 new ones and it firred up and was auctualy driveable but still spluttered on initial throttle on take off . it worked for a couple of times in and out of the work shop .but started it today and it would not take revs without splutering then i noticed the manifolds was white hot and i can cet 12" flames out the exhaust .it was a cat model but the cats have been removed it still has white resistor fitted . any help would be much appreciated thanks

Have you still got lambas fitted? Have you checked fuel pressure? And are you sure wiring is all okay? Could be high fuel pressure, but could be any number of things, there is a good guide to the 14cux system online somewhere, can't remember exactly but it's helped me a few times.

http://www.britishv8.org/articles/rover-14cux-efi.htm is the guide, worth belling wiring out back to ecu connector, the MAF connectors are particularly prone to dodgy connections,

somersetsparks said:

Have you still got lambas fitted? Have you checked fuel pressure? And are you sure wiring is all okay? Could be high fuel pressure, but could be any number of things, there is a good guide to the 14cux system online somewhere, can't remember exactly but it's helped me a few times.

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hi just checked fuel pressure on idle it sits at 2.4 bar and goes up to 2.7 bar when you rev it but it struggles to rev past 4000 rpm and coughs back out the outlet when you rev it and gets very hot on the manifolds

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somersetsparks said:

Have you still got lambas fitted? Have you checked fuel pressure? And are you sure wiring is all okay? Could be high fuel pressure, but could be any number of things, there is a good guide to the 14cux system online somewhere, can't remember exactly but it's helped me a few times.

Click to expand...

hi just checked fuel pressure on idle it sits at 2.4 bar and goes up to 2.7 bar when you rev it but it struggles to rev past 4000 rpm and coughs back out the outlet when you rev it and gets very hot on the manifolds :

You need to change resistor to alter fuel map.

Well from memory it should be 2.5bar above manifold pressure all the time if it goes over it should return to the tank, so I would say your regulator is okay. Are you sure timing is correct? Has the car still got lambda sensors fitted?

hi the lamdas are still fitted but away to get new resistor

3.5 efi said:

You need to change resistor to alter fuel map.

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But if car had cats removed and lambas still in place running on the Cat fuel map wouldn't present problems this bad.

the timing is spot on just checked again. but cant figure out why its poping back out the inlet.do you think it is just from the over fueling

somersetsparks said:

But if car had cats removed and lambas still in place running on the Cat fuel map wouldn't present problems this bad.

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No, would be rich if anything thinking about it. suspect air being drawn in causing leaness.

OP have you checked for inlet leaks, Blockages in the breather pipes, leaking plenum etc. I would spray around plenum with brake cleaner and engine running see if the revs rise, next port of call would be maf and it's wiring, rover gauge software and the lead to connect it to a laptop was a brilliant investment for me

cheers will give it a try when i can get it running again as its back to not starting. waiting on software to arrive. cheers for all the advice will give an update with what happens once the postman has delivered my software

Just a thought, have you made sure you have a really good earth to the ECU and engine as the injectors are earth switched?

Finally got a chance to look at it again got it running was still running crap.Plugged in ecu mate i bought could on get code 14 water temp sensor and it the 3rd one i have bought think it might be wiring. but i changed tune resistor to a green one 470 ohm for no cats reset ecu and it now runs sweet still has code 14 so need to look into the wiring for that. Cheers for all the help JUST NEED TO GET A MOT NOW

ok runs fine in workshop but not on the road still popping out inlet. Tried earths all good connection and beep out just need to check sensor wiring or another faulty sensor????????

Ignition timing may be 180 degrees out.
Easy mistake to make and timing will look spot on.
It would still run, but like ****.

right i have bought an ecu mate the coolant sensor was faulty. so now all is good according to the ecu mate but it starts struggles to idle and wont take any revs and if you do get the revs up it pops and bangs back out the inlet.the green resistor is fitted now to . i have re checked the fuel and pressure around 2 bar fuel is good . all parts from distributor to sensors are all new ,any ideas as im stumped the only thing i have not changed is the ecu help..........

chrisyyboy said:

it starts struggles to idle and wont take any revs and if you do get the revs up it pops and bangs back out the inlet..

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Sounds like ignition timing to me. First up check the vac advance unit is actually working. (do a search in the V8 section, I know this has been done before). If the diaphragm has perished you will have a vacuum leak which could cause idle problems but also, if the vac advance isn't working you're not getting enough advance when the throttle is opened causing the engine to bog down.

If you can get it to idle stick a strobe on it and check the timing or in the alternative, mark the dizzy position then slacken the clamp bolt and advance the timing up and see if that helps.

Fuel pressure should be at least 39psi at idle. 2 bar is only 29psi