- Posts
- 16,478
1. Introduce yourself
2. Start a New Thread
3. Download RAVE
4. Read Electrical Manuals from RAVE
L322 drivers window switches stopped working and door lock etc
- Thread starter Bamba
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
2. Start a New Thread
3. Download RAVE
4. Read Electrical Manuals from RAVE
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,069
- Location
- Hertfordshire
:tea:
Deasy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,070
- Location
- Warwick-on-the-shire
does anyone know if this was solved? im having exactly the same issues at the moment 
- Posts
- 16,478
My seat sometimes fails to repsond....but a gentle wiggle of the switch gets it going again, when I find the time I will take the side panel off and give the contacts and switches a clean!does anyone know if this was solved? im having exactly the same issues at the moment
Deasy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,070
- Location
- Warwick-on-the-shire
Right, iv stripped the door down, connectors are all fine, switches are fine.
So looking into it more and tracing cables etc then it clicked lol. The door harness connector!
So it's a pig to get to but.. Found it
Just an 8mm bolt at the top and bottom is hooked it, the the connector is your standard, pull the tab up to release
So what's the best way to fix this? Any ideas?
So looking into it more and tracing cables etc then it clicked lol. The door harness connector!
So it's a pig to get to but.. Found it
Just an 8mm bolt at the top and bottom is hooked it, the the connector is your standard, pull the tab up to release
So what's the best way to fix this? Any ideas?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,785
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
A good quality contact cleaner and a tooth brush (best use the wife's)Right, iv stripped the door down, connectors are all fine, switches are fine.
So looking into it more and tracing cables etc then it clicked lol. The door harness connector!
So it's a pig to get to but.. Found it
Just an 8mm bolt at the top and bottom is hooked it, the the connector is your standard, pull the tab up to release
So what's the best way to fix this? Any ideas?
Deasy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,070
- Location
- Warwick-on-the-shire
A good quality contact cleaner and a tooth brush (best use the wife's)
I did think about tht, is it best to take the pins out to clean? I gave it a quick spray with contact cleaner but didn't really help.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,785
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Hard to get the pins out without damage, wet & dry on the end of a small screw driver if the pins are bad, fine grinding past on the cleaned pins can be used to clean the sockets if all else fails then wash with contact cleaner.
Seems the L322 has P38 disease
Deasy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,070
- Location
- Warwick-on-the-shire
Hard to get the pins out without damage, wet & dry on the end of a small screw driver if the pins are bad, fine grinding past on the cleaned pins can be used to clean the sockets if all else fails then wash with contact cleaner.
Seems the L322 has P38 disease
Ahhh, great stuff that's Keith il try that tomorrow!
Deasy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,070
- Location
- Warwick-on-the-shire
So stripped it down and cleaned up all the pins and connectors with some white vinegar (dissolves the corrosion) and a tooth brush, then cleaned that off with electrical contact cleaner.
Still not working, so then I started staking the pins out one at a time and thoroughly cleaning. And eventually came the the culprit. Which was no longer a pin. Completely corroded off!
Unable to get the spare pins, I drilled out the hole in the connector, threaded through some cable and crimped with ends.
Works a treat just need to find some diaelectric grease to stop it happening again
Still not working, so then I started staking the pins out one at a time and thoroughly cleaning. And eventually came the the culprit. Which was no longer a pin. Completely corroded off!
Unable to get the spare pins, I drilled out the hole in the connector, threaded through some cable and crimped with ends.
Works a treat
just need to find some diaelectric grease to stop it happening again
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,785
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I think I'd get rid of the connector completely and solder the wires, sleeving with glue filled heat shrink tube.
- Posts
- 16,478
Good work Deasy...great bit of detective work and fix!
Deasy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,070
- Location
- Warwick-on-the-shire
Hmmm yes perhaps. But iv just noticed a monumental school boys error.
Obviously I had the batt disconnected whilst playing especially with the srs system in the door.
So I made a temp connection to ensure it would fix the issue. Batt reconnected and tested. Works. Great
So then I unplugged the connector again to make the connection properly.
Forgot to disconnect the battery and just unplugged.
Now I have the srs light on
hopefully the garage I use will reset it for free
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,069
- Location
- Hertfordshire
only needs a reset Deasy.
was lucky the airbag didn't deploy ! lol
was lucky the airbag didn't deploy ! lol
Hatterman18
New Member
- Posts
- 2
- Location
- Bedfordshire
My L322 RR Vogue rear offside electric window just stopped working. Checked switches and fuse. Read this post and it pointed me to the main door electrical connector. Gave it a wiggle and lo and behold the window started working again. THANK YOU !!!
THANK YOU !!! THANK YOU !!!
THANK YOU !!! THANK YOU !!!
- Posts
- 16,478
This is an old thread I know but just thought I'd also say thank you as this really helped me today.
I had similar issues where electrics in from passenger side door stopped working (around the time the battery was disconnected, but this may not be related).
This was a 2004 Vogue
It was quite annoying not being able to use the window and auto lock/unlock the door.
Also to make it worse one night I forgot to manually lock it and someone decided to help themselves to my parking change.
Anyhow after checking fault code, fuses etc I managed to find this thread.
Getting the little bolt out of the connector was a bit of a pain due to limited access.
In the end I used a socket clamped in the end of a pair of grip pliers and this worked pretty neat.
For the socket I tried my 7mm and then 9mm but they were either to big or to small.
I didnt have an 8mm but a 5/16" did the trick.
Also this same socket did a great job on the star headed bolt in the middle door/body connector. Removing this allowed the door to open a tiny bit more and also gave more access for the next bit.
After disconnecting the battery to then next split the connectors in the door it's got a neat "up" sliding catch. When in this position this also means that the connector from the body is now to big to accidentally slide back into the body. I imagine trying to fish that thing back out again would be a right pain.
Initially I was disappointed to see the contacts looking in good condition as I wanted this to be the cause of the problem as I was running out of other possibilities.
Nether the less I gave a good spray with contact cleaner and connected up back together.
To my surprise this did fix the problem!
I had similar issues where electrics in from passenger side door stopped working (around the time the battery was disconnected, but this may not be related).
This was a 2004 Vogue
It was quite annoying not being able to use the window and auto lock/unlock the door.
Also to make it worse one night I forgot to manually lock it and someone decided to help themselves to my parking change.
Anyhow after checking fault code, fuses etc I managed to find this thread.
Getting the little bolt out of the connector was a bit of a pain due to limited access.
In the end I used a socket clamped in the end of a pair of grip pliers and this worked pretty neat.
For the socket I tried my 7mm and then 9mm but they were either to big or to small.
I didnt have an 8mm but a 5/16" did the trick.
Also this same socket did a great job on the star headed bolt in the middle door/body connector. Removing this allowed the door to open a tiny bit more and also gave more access for the next bit.
After disconnecting the battery to then next split the connectors in the door it's got a neat "up" sliding catch. When in this position this also means that the connector from the body is now to big to accidentally slide back into the body. I imagine trying to fish that thing back out again would be a right pain.
Initially I was disappointed to see the contacts looking in good condition as I wanted this to be the cause of the problem as I was running out of other possibilities.
Nether the less I gave a good spray with contact cleaner and connected up back together.
To my surprise this did fix the problem!
Clamjamphrie
Member
- Posts
- 30
- Location
- Mendips
I have the same problem here, which seems to be no power whatsoever to the drivers door. I've tried the fix that Deasy and Cull have shown but imagine my non-surprise when this didn't work.
This problem occurred after a dead battery and unlocking the drivers door with the key to gain access to the bonnet catch. Since then, no power to the drivers door. Has anybody had this problem and a bit of a clean and spray didn't fix it?
Just to note: The All comms shows up a few door mirror faults but they've been there since the car was built (I would imagine). ;p
Edit: I've just noticed my puddle light is working...
This problem occurred after a dead battery and unlocking the drivers door with the key to gain access to the bonnet catch. Since then, no power to the drivers door. Has anybody had this problem and a bit of a clean and spray didn't fix it?
Just to note: The All comms shows up a few door mirror faults but they've been there since the car was built (I would imagine). ;p
Edit: I've just noticed my puddle light is working...
Last edited:
Clamjamphrie
Member
- Posts
- 30
- Location
- Mendips
Yeah, well, I managed to get to the root of my problem. It turns out some idiot didn't put the fuse back in while investigating a battery drain issue....
However, on the plus side I'm pretty sure the drivers door mirror didn't work before I cleaned the connector and I'm pretty sure the 'exit height' button didn't work either... but then again, I can't even remember not putting a fuse back in so, hey, what do I know
However, on the plus side I'm pretty sure the drivers door mirror didn't work before I cleaned the connector and I'm pretty sure the 'exit height' button didn't work either... but then again, I can't even remember not putting a fuse back in so, hey, what do I know
Similar threads
