Killajoules Series 80" upgrade project

Joules why don't you just extend the slot by 20mm then it's fit without needing to undo the bolt or stretch the belt.

jai_landrover said:

Joules why don't you just extend the slot by 20mm then it's fit without needing to undo the bolt or stretch the belt.

Click to expand...

If your coming by MK any time I could extend the slow on the mill if you want.

jai_landrover said:

Joules why don't you just extend the slot by 20mm then it's fit without needing to undo the bolt or stretch the belt.

Click to expand...

Dam PC posted twice!

Thanks guys. I was actually contemplating that, but I think where it is will be fine once the engine has run for a wee while and the new belt settles in.

The main issue really is that the belt has so little leeway that the alternator is almost touching the block. Fortunately these Series 1 belts are usually good for 60 years so I can't see me having to replace it in my lifetime lol

Prettey certain I have the regulator removal sussed so that may be tonights job if the wife is still out at Ascot.

The question is, do I try to keep the ammeter in the system or just go for the easy solution and bypass it. After all a) I rarely look at it and b) I bent the needle when I was fitting the LED illumination so it sits at -5A when the engine is off !

Should be easy enough to wire in, are you fitting the H4's while you are at it?

H4 upgrade is worth it, my series one has them! Was very pleased when I turned them on coming home from surrey

Ultimately. Probably want to run run them through relays though.

Should have winch brush plate back tomorrow too. So should I install the warn in the front of the 80?

Could we adapt the bumper in your garden to fit the 80?

Was wondering about that, it may frig onto an 80. Not sure how to address dual batteries though

Box in the tub with vents out the wing

Well great success this evening. Identified the correct feed wire from the ignition light and connected to a new field wire and wrapped the new cables into the loom.

Commoned all the outputs onto the A & A1 connections on the regulator. Connected the battery and switched on the ignition.

Light came on 😃

Fired her up and light went out. 😃

A sweet 14.3V accross the battery and all electrics working well.

We are mobile again 😀

First running of SFF after alternator upgrade: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAMj7Pjqn1o

Video is on private. Good job though. You bringing the Disco at the weekend so we can do the brest transplant?

Sorted, first time I uploaded from the phone. Forgot the private / public thingy

excellent job

OK, after much hunting around on t'internet aand ringing round various agricultural / bearings companies I have concluded that there is nowt in the fan belt world that is 19mm (3/4") wide to replace the S1 belt with a locnger one.

So I drilled / sawed then filed the bracket to all reduce the minimum adjustment by 8mm. This means that the alternator is almost touching the block but that the belt is snug but not overtight. I can move it by about an inch but it does not flap!

I also took the opportunity to replace the oil pressure switch to si if it flickers as much as the old on. I still have not found a suitable adaptor to install my oil pressure guage too.

Finally I thought I would check out the fuel sender. I bought a replacement one last year, however it only opperates from half full to full !!

e.g. if the float falls below half way the needle remains at half full. Now I dont know about you lot, but knowing when the tank is getting low is more important to me that when it is full. I can guess that much by the noise from the filler pipe being sloshed around.

Did you try beeline bearings in Mk? They do all sorts of bearings n pulleys.

Try these Drive belts from A C Belting Ltd. Gloucester
Simply bearings seem to have quite a selection also
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=4601_4790_4735

This evening I installed an expansion tank in the 80". Despite a new thermostat the spreadbore has a tendancy to spurt out some of its coolant when you switch the engine off after a short run. Once cooled the water falls below the top of the radiator matrix.

So for a fiver I managed to source a S11/111 tank and bracket. I then was faced with whether to cut into the brass overflow pipe which is soldered to the tank or try a long hose. I have decided upon the latter, so connected the overflow pipe exit via a long hose to the bottle.





Then I went home and transferred 2 gallons of fresh strawberry syrup into demijons to make a nice tastey batch of wine.

I have been thinking the same, about cutting the overflow pipe that is to install an s3 expansion tank in my 86, and had reached the same conclusion, to use a long pipe.

the other problem is that the side of the tank where the pipe is doesn't have much room due to the battery and lights - although yours seems to have fitted possibly because your headlight back seems smaller than mine - so the other side seems to be the best bet but it would have to be a very long tube, or I could install the expansion tank between the grill and the rad

btw did you use self tappers or nuts and bolts to secure the frame to the wing?