Keep it in the family

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JokerUK

JokerUK

Active Member
Full Member
Posts
135
Location
Calne Wiltshire
Morning all,
I’ve just (yesterday) payed a deposit and committed to buy an FL2 HSE TD4 for daughter no1 as she has no car having separated from her partner and has a young baby.
She doesn’t know it’s doing yet as I want to check it thoroughly on arrival - it’s done just over 100k miles receipts for cambelt , water pump and full service. just mot’d for 12 months with advisories on worn disks so I will replace these.

It has little prior history but the price was ok - and it will be maintained by Dad’s garage.

unlike most things I buy I’m hoping that this is not a project! As I’m currently up to my ears with my Defender and RRS

I may give it another oil and filter change and run some injector cleaner through as well, just want to make sure it is safe

I;ve run through quite a few threads but any other guidance would be really welcomed
 

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At that age, it's wise to replace the Haldex filter, fluid and clean the pump screen.
I'd also change the rear diff oil, PTU oil and gearbox fluid.
The PS fluid will be past its best, and the reservoir filter will likely be blocked unless already replaced, so do that too. Also check the PS hose and solid pipes where they enter the rack, as they are a known rust failure point, and letting the system run out of fluid causes pump issues very quickly.

While replacing the rotors, check the calipers for seized pistons and slides replace the former if sticking, and clean and lube the latter with ceramic brake grease.
You may as well strip and assess the parking brakes assemblies too, as they are seldom looked at after the vehicle stops being maintained by an LR dealer.

Good luck with it.
 
If the caliper pistons do need sorting, might as well do the slides as well ?

Also check tracking as MOT history has several mentions of wear on tyre edges.
 
Nodge68 said:
At that age, it's wise to replace the Haldex filter, fluid and clean the pump screen.
I'd also change the rear diff oil, PTU oil and gearbox fluid.
The PS fluid will be past its best, and the reservoir filter will likely be blocked unless already replaced, so do that too. Also check the PS hose and solid pipes where they enter the rack, as they are a known rust failure point, and letting the system run out of fluid causes pump issues very quickly.

While replacing the rotors, check the calipers for seized pistons and slides replace the former if sticking, and clean and lube the latter with ceramic brake grease.
You may as well strip and assess the parking brakes assemblies too, as they are seldom looked at after the vehicle stops being maintained by an LR dealer.

Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for such a detailed response- I was reading about the Haldex servicing yesterday
 
Dar ran Dar ran said:
My pride and joy as bought a uninsurable type R and as asked the parents for his insurance money for Christmas 🙄
I literally would have been laughed out the house when i was his age just for asking
Click to expand...
Yes I hear you on that - daughter #4 is now looking for her first vehicle and is sending me all sorts on uninsurable stuff
 
Nodge68 said:
At that age, it's wise to replace the Haldex filter, fluid and clean the pump screen.
I'd also change the rear diff oil, PTU oil and gearbox fluid.
The PS fluid will be past its best, and the reservoir filter will likely be blocked unless already replaced, so do that too. Also check the PS hose and solid pipes where they enter the rack, as they are a known rust failure point, and letting the system run out of fluid causes pump issues very quickly.

While replacing the rotors, check the calipers for seized pistons and slides replace the former if sticking, and clean and lube the latter with ceramic brake grease.
You may as well strip and assess the parking brakes assemblies too, as they are seldom looked at after the vehicle stops being maintained by an LR dealer.

Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
Thanks again Nodge - OK Haldex Service kit ordered
- on the PS reservoir filter, are you suggesting it can be removed and cleaned or do I need to replace the whole reservoir?
- also on the Gearbox - do I need to do a filter or is it as simple as drain and fill?
Regards

Steve
 
JokerUK said:
Thanks again Nodge - OK Haldex Service kit ordered
- on the PS reservoir filter, are you suggesting it can be removed and cleaned or do I need to replace the whole reservoir?
- also on the Gearbox - do I need to do a filter or is it as simple as drain and fill?
Regards

Steve
Click to expand...
The PS reservoir has a non serviceable filter screen in the outlet to the pump, so replacing it is the only thing to do. Thankfully they are cheap as chips (under £20) from many LR parts seller's.

The fluid used in the Freelander is special CHF fluid, and is green. Avoid any fluids that aren't green, as they aren't compatible.

The gearbox is a simple spill and refill, which drains about 40% of the volume, so diluting the old fluid. Do it 3 times over a couple of hundred miles to get a good amount of old fluid removed, and replaced with fresh.

JokerUK said:
I missed the tyre wear - good shout on tracking
Click to expand...

Play in the large lower control arm bush will also cause uneven tyre wear.
 
Nodge68 said:
The PS reservoir has a non serviceable filter screen in the outlet to the pump, so replacing it is the only thing to do. Thankfully they are cheap as chips (under £20) from many LR parts seller's.

The fluid used in the Freelander is special CHF fluid, and is green. Avoid any fluids that aren't green, as they aren't compatible.

The gearbox is a simple spill and refill, which drains about 40% of the volume, so diluting the old fluid. Do it 3 times over a couple of hundred miles to get a good amount of old fluid removed, and replaced with fresh.



Play in the large lower control arm bush will also cause uneven tyre wear.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the clarifications - very busy weekend ahead for me :)
 
Andy Warren said:
O & don't forget the brake fluid as it should be changed every two years
Click to expand...
o_O

I was going to say that I doubt that the brake or steering fluid has ever been changed in my '99 L Series.

But thinking about it, while that may be true of the steering fluid, the brake fluid inevitably gets changed each time the ABS modulator is replaced, so probably about 6 & 8 years ago.

The engine's coolant though is 'changed' probably every 2 months. About 1L of fresh new water every 2 weeks. :oops:

The engine's oil gets replaced roughly annually. What hasn't soaked into my drive anyway.

IRD & gearbox oil last got changed when the IRD got smashed and was rebuilt. That was when I joined LZ. Geepers, that was 10 years ago now. That oil must be run in by now.
 
Andy Warren said:
O & don't forget the brake fluid as it should be changed every two years, best of luck with the mounting jobs list :).
Click to expand...
Yes - got some of that.
-started last night (Thurs)
-plugged it into IID and held my breath - nothing bad came out.
-managed to programme in a £13 eBay key fob as it only came with one key - will still need to get a blade cut.

-been to Castle Combe this morning for a belated birthday drive experience but about to go out and get the car raised for some proper jobs - boot is full of lubricants and bits…

- inside it’s pretty damp ‘I’ve had a dehumidifier running for 24 hours and pulled out a fair bit of water so will need to go hunting for water sources - my divining twigs are ready!
 
JokerUK said:
Yes - got some of that.
-started last night (Thurs)
-plugged it into IID and held my breath - nothing bad came out.
-managed to programme in a £13 eBay key fob as it only came with one key - will still need to get a blade cut.

-been to Castle Combe this morning for a belated birthday drive experience but about to go out and get the car raised for some proper jobs - boot is full of lubricants and bits…

- inside it’s pretty damp ‘I’ve had a dehumidifier running for 24 hours and pulled out a fair bit of water so will need to go hunting for water sources - my divining twigs are ready!
Click to expand...
The evaporator drain hose is known to clog up, which then allows the condensate to leak into the driver's foot well.
 
Nodge68 said:
The PS reservoir has a non serviceable filter screen in the outlet to the pump, so replacing it is the only thing to do. Thankfully they are cheap as chips (under £20) from many LR parts seller's.

The fluid used in the Freelander is special CHF fluid, and is green. Avoid any fluids that aren't green, as they aren't compatible.

The gearbox is a simple spill and refill, which drains about 40% of the volume, so diluting the old fluid. Do it 3 times over a couple of hundred miles to get a good amount of old fluid removed, and replaced with fresh.



Play in the large lower control arm bush will also cause uneven tyre wear.
Click to expand...
 
Nodge68 said:
The evaporator drain hose is known to clog up, which then allows the condensate to leak into the driver's foot well.
Click to expand...
...and or course nothing is straight forward!
Got the car up onto 4 ramps for the planned activities.
Thought I'd start with the Haldex as that sounded like the most pain - well I managed three bolts, but they were soooo tight (my poor arthritic hands!) - I've soaked everything else in pen oil and will leave overnight.

In the mean-time I drained and refilled the rear diff, nice and easy - oil was horrible.

Next moved to the front, took the engine cover and air -filter off and noticed that the far right (drivers side) injector was sitting in a pool of what I thought was oil, only to realise it was diesel!
I cleaned the whole area up so that I could try to trace the leak (added a pic but its pretty blurry)- went to start the engine, it cranks but doesn't fire :(

Did some reading on the forum and assume that this is a fuel transfer pump issue (yes it's on about 1/4 tank). I assume that this is as simple as going in through the access panel under the rear seat. Is there anything I should test first? - I didn't see any errors in IDD re: fuel pump
Also is there a recommended product as the price seems to vary greatly ?

I may have also spied a coolant leak on the LH side of the engine......

This is starting to feel a bit projecty
 

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