Jatco auto box - reverse

Thanks, lets hope it is

DefUnct said:

Thanks Hippo - I'm aware of all that has been written regarding this on the forums.

Although surprised by what he said, to be honest i didn't really argue with him, since I'm used to things being done a little differently over here, but the result is usually good. Having got the call that it's ready to pick up, it's probably too late to influence this - do you have any recommendations on how to proceed? i.e take it for a drive on way home and check level or something similar?

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If you want to check the level correctly then start from cold and let it warm up, like the correct instructions. The engine coolant gets warmer quicker than the auto oil which is why driving it doesn't put it to the correct temp band. It's the only way to know the real temp of the auto oil. Driving it will get it too hot too soon. When this topic comes up there's always a discussion. We assume something opens or happen within the auto at lower temps, but we're not sure. Will find out soon when I take my spare apart.

There's always a lot of discussion on filling the Jatco auto. I personally would never tempt anyone to not follow the instructions purely due to the fact it costs so much money to replace an auto if it's damaged. That's my personal choice based on mine failing due to it leaking auto oil and the level being too low, and the number of peeps or their garages who damage the auto by making mistakes.

It will be empty when fitted or put back together so they have to put some oil in it. I think rave lists the amount from dry you need to put in. If it were mine I would be very tempted to check the level myself. But that's me. If your happy with it and it's working then that's ok. It's nice to hear it's fixed.

My son's 04 TD4 auto has just lost reverse. Definitely not "wrong bolt" syndrome, because I did the trans fluid about two months ago. Apparently there was a dull clunk, and then no reverse gear. So I will check the usual such as connectors, solenoid resistance, etc. but I suspect the clutch band has snapped.

Does anyone know if the Reverse Band / Low Clutch Band (name seems to vary) is the same on the various Jatco versions ? It seems various suppliers list the part for multiple vehicles, but others have different part numbers for VW, LR, Mazda, etc.

pwood999 said:

Does anyone know if the Reverse Band / Low Clutch Band (name seems to vary) is the same on the various Jatco versions ?

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I'm guessing the reverse band is probably the same. I do know it's a weak point on the Jacto though.

Exactly what mine did, clunk, actually while driving forwards, then swung into neighbours drive to reverse into mine and got stuck!!!
Difficult to move even in neutral once band broke. I had a gearbox reconditioner change anything that was worn for about £700 including removal and replacement. It has now done another 80k miles since that day!!

Ok thanks guys. I did the Solenoid Ohms check last night on the ECU connectors, and they all match the values in this video so it loos like the multipin plugs & wiring is ok.

Guess it's box out time

pwood999 said:

Ok thanks guys. I did the Solenoid Ohms check last night on the ECU connectors, and they all match the values in this video resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A so it loos like the multipin plugs & wiring is ok.

Guess it's box out time

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Is the oil level in the jatco correct? Level is set with the engine on tick over.

Fairly sure, but gonna check that as well this evening once I get the under-cover or whatever it's called off.

Not seen any leaks since changing the fluid a few months ago when we put new turbo in. That time I checked it properly with engine running & iCarsoft for temperature checks. I also added a litre on Sunday just in case it was low, but that didn't help.

Met a nice bloke wiht a recovery truck at the other end of my road yesterday, and he got it from Wycombe to Langley for £60. At least my son didn't drive it since it broke.

So on Sunday I finally got the auto box out of the car. Cleaned up the outside case, and removed the TC housing. Low Clutch band definitely broken so ordered a replacement.

Strange thing is the gear assembly within the clutch band (lower left of picture) will only rotate anti-clockwise ? Is this normal or an indication of something broken or jammed further inside the box ? I have checked the selector is in neutral, which is fairly obvious when looking at when the parking pawl engages.

@pwood999, great stuff, don't know the answer sorry, but as the reverse loss is a common problem would you be prepared to do a procedure for what you have done with a few photos?? Could be a sticky on the site.

andyfreelandy said:

@pwood999, great stuff, don't know the answer sorry, but as the reverse loss is a common problem would you be prepared to do a procedure for what you have done with a few photos?? Could be a sticky on the site.

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To be honest I just followed RAVE procedure exactly for the gearbox removal. The only difference is to drain & remove IRD before front exhaust pipe. It's much easier to get to the exhaust studs this way.

Also bought one of these transmission jacks, which made lowering the box easier, but it ended up too high to go under the front bumper. With careful manoeuvring, wheeled the box out the left wheel arch !!

OK, I meant the gearbox internals and band renewal particularly.
Hope it has gone well.

Ah, that part is easy. Does not require full strip-down of the gearbox. I got most of my info from this forum !! The rebuild guide is in this post.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/no-reverse-gear-td4-auto.251121/#post-4069115

Follow pages 7-8 to remove the broken band.
Buy replacement
Follow pages 55-58 for re-assembly.

*** Attached PDF's are the relevant pages.

Fab, thanks. Might be worth a sticky as the vehicles get higher and higher mileage.
Mine went at the 100k mark.

This one is just over 150k so done well.

andyfreelandy said:

Exactly what mine did, clunk, actually while driving forwards, then swung into neighbours drive to reverse into mine and got stuck!!!
Difficult to move even in neutral once band broke. I had a gearbox reconditioner change anything that was worn for about £700 including removal and replacement. It has now done another 80k miles since that day!!

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Just out of interest Andy, how long ago was that and where did you get it done? Just wondering in case mine packs up as it's on 155k now. I have visions of a garage charging £1500 to fit a recon box.

kernowsvenski said:

Just out of interest Andy, how long ago was that and where did you get it done?

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It was about 8 years ago. A company called Engines & Gears in Leytonston East London. They were advertising auto fluid change recently on Ebay but no sign of them today as I look for a link!!

Must be somewhere nearer to you or do it yourself as above!! I'm enjoying gearbox rebuilds, albeit on a much simpler scale.

Update: Transmission, IRD, etc. all back in car. Had to but new trans-cooler because the fittings sheared off when I was undoing the pipes. Usual aluminium-steel corrosion issue. Today found the threads on the pipe fittings are also bad, so had to order new pipes as well . Someone must have done them rather too tight in the past. Hopefully they will arrive in next couple of days, and then the rest can go back in.

Definitely not doing anymore gearboxes . . . . too old for this stuff !! The youngsters will have to learn how, with me in a chair nearby !!

Yippee . . .Transmission working again. Total parts cost:

• Low Clutch Band = £62
• Trans Cooler = £82
• Cooler Pipes = £156
• Total Cost = £300

Labour Cost = My sanity plus many scratches, bruises & aching muscles.