IRD - DIY replacement an option?

Afternoon chaps

Couldn't find a good answer to this by searching the forum............so hope i'm not duplicating anything here.

I have been told today that the constant drivetrain noise i have is coming from the "transfer box" (which i take to mean the IRD). VCU is fine, apparently. The guy that diagnosed it had on a ramp over his head, and running so that he could listen to wheels / VCU bearings etc in turn.

For info, the noise was definitely from the front, central, and worse moving forwards than in reverse. Also seemed more noticeable after driving for a few miles.

I'm not happy just part-ex'ing it for something else, although part of me says this is what i should do. So my question is, if i were to get hold of a recon ird, could i handle the replacement work myself?

I have no garage, so i'd be doing it on my driveway (which is flat).
I have a reasonable tool kit, but nothing fancy. Am i likely to need any special landrover tools to gain access to things?

Any other thoughts or recommendations welcome!

Thanks in advance.

Chirky

Hi are you meaning to take the ird out of your car or rebuild the unit yourself?
I would also not trust that your vcu is working by simply listening to it

Whats the model of freelander? the 1.8 petrol is very simple to take out on your driveway, however the td4 is a little more tricky as i have found it alot easier to take out the whole subframe,

Regards

Hi. Thanks for your reply.
I'm not intending rebuilding the ird myself - just swapping it with a recon unit. It was the vcu bearings that the guy listened to, not the vcu itself. I have done both the tippex test and the "jack up one rear wheel" test, so i know the vcu isn't seized.

It's a TD4 so maybe i would take your advice and remove the whole subframe. That in itself sounds like a tall order!

At this stage i'm just trying to decide whether to attempt the ird replacement myself, and in particular determine whether i have the tools to do it. If it's just torque wrench, socket set, spanners, torx bits etc then i'll be ok, but i don't want to get half way and find myself in need of a special landrover tool

Has anyone else done this job "on their driveway", and if so how long did it take? Was it a ba****d of a job, or relatively straightforward?

Regards
Chirky

Chirky said:

Hi. Thanks for your reply.
I'm not intending rebuilding the ird myself - just swapping it with a recon unit. It was the vcu bearings that the guy listened to, not the vcu itself. I have done both the tippex test and the "jack up one rear wheel" test, so i know the vcu isn't seized.

It's a TD4 so maybe i would take your advice and remove the whole subframe. That in itself sounds like a tall order!

At this stage i'm just trying to decide whether to attempt the ird replacement myself, and in particular determine whether i have the tools to do it. If it's just torque wrench, socket set, spanners, torx bits etc then i'll be ok, but i don't want to get half way and find myself in need of a special landrover tool

Has anyone else done this job "on their driveway", and if so how long did it take? Was it a ba****d of a job, or relatively straightforward?

Regards
Chirky

Click to expand...

How many miles have you done? Most posts on here regarding VCU or IRD failure are with reference to early Freelanders. I see yours is on a 53 plate. Apparently, the issue regarding the IRD ratio was fixed in 2001. But then again this does not seem like a typical failure given that your VCU is said to be fine. Normally it's a faulty VCU that damages the IRD.

H,i there is no specialist tools you need but it is not a easy task, you will need a very long extension to undo the to top 15mm bolds which actually hold the ird in place,

Rember to Drain oils and water, like i say i would remove the subframe as there is not much room to get the unit out.

If your pretty good with a spanner i'd say go for it! it will save you alot of money.
Alot of my customer's remove there boxes by themselves before bringinging them to me,

Another cheaper option would be to have your box rebuilt as it only sounds like you have a noisey bearing inside,

If your sure the vcu is not at fault i would also check the drive shafts ect because there is normally a reason why your ird would play up (but not always)

Kind regards

what ya gotta do first is undo track rod ends an anti roll bar drop links then undo 4 21 mm bolts that hold subframe on an the 13mm bolt thats in stabliser mount on back of engine an subframe will be off drain oil out of ird then take drivers side drive shaft off an rear prop shaft off once sub frame on floor theres 2 brackets on drivers side of ird held on by 10 mm an 13 mm bolts take them off the take water pipes off ird unit an drain water or clamp em up then remove the 4 15mm or could be 17mm bolts 2 at top an 2 at bottom if u have a flex ratchet spanner will be fine gettin onto the back one which is the hardest bolt of all an they are usally tight an once they are out the ird will slide out takes about an hour to do at work with air tools so may take a bit longer by hand but it is a job you can do ya self

Thanks for all the replies so far - all very useful, but i'm concerned that this is going to be a step too far for me to do myself.

RichM - it's done 58000 miles. The techie that diagnosed it says there is a lot of play in the output flange to the prop shaft (there is 'slack' in a rotational way, not in-out, if you know what i mean.) He demonstrated it by grabbing the prop and twisting it - he could move it 2-3mm and says it should be tight, ie no slack.

He also pointed out that the n/s front tyre had worn in a strange way - the inner edge of the tread had a sort of saw-tooth feel to it, not smooth like the outer edge. Would this also be a symptom of ird failure?

Regards
Chirky

Where abouts are you?

If there is Play its more than likely the crownwheel bottom bearing has worn slightly which is the most common bearing to break.

it sounds like you may have caught it in time to just have a bearing rebuild which will save you alot,

Have you checked you drive shafts? is you tracking out?

regards

I'm in South Wales. Not checked driveshafts, nor tracking (no time since the ird problem was diagnosed yesterday), but steering doesn't pull to one side.........

Would a worn drive shaft cause either/both tyre wear and ird problems?

All i can say is that the drive train noise is constant, even when running the vehicle with the wheels off the ground. Slightly less in reverse gear........

I've had so many opinions over the last few months i don't know what to think. The guy yesterday seemed positive that the ird was the culprit......

Regards
Chirky

Yes a drive shaft can course a ird to fail, there are lots of things that can,

Even tyre pressure

I had a customer last week who bought some 18 inch alloys for his td4 but only fit the 2 rear ones and left the 16's on the front while he had something done only drove it once and the ird broke!

Normally it is the vcu which is the main problem but if you say thats ok there more than likely is something coursing it.

Your pretty far from me i would have suggested popping it in and i could have a look for you.
regards

Thanks anyway freelanderirdspecialists. I'll continue to think about my options and maybe take it somewhere for a second opinion.

Regards
Chirky