Intercooler hoses on TD5 three or four?

Looking to replace mine having found one with a split.
And looking on the net some kits seem to contain 4 hoses and some contain 3.
Please can anyone enlighten me as to why there is such a difference?
As far as I can tell without taking too much off, I only need three.
Thanks in advance.
Mine's a 10p engine on a 2000 MY vehicle.

Hi, AFAIK some kits have both hoses to fit standard or performance interooler or D2 vs Defender cos there are slightt differencies so at the end from a kit of 4 one hose will be useless, other sellers are showing 4 hoses while the kit has only 3 for example this https://www.steveparkers.com/product/splr23-discovery-2-td5-silicone-intercooler-hose-kit/ where you see 4 hoses but in the description they say 3.

sierrafery said:

Hi, AFAIK some kits have both hoses to fit standard or performance interooler or D2 vs Defender cos there are slightt differencies so at the end from a kit of 4 one hose will be useless, other sellers are showing 4 hoses while the kit has only 3 for example this https://www.steveparkers.com/product/splr23-discovery-2-td5-silicone-intercooler-hose-kit/ where you see 4 hoses but in the description they say 3.

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Cheers mate!
That would make sense!
Sincerely hoping this has been the cause of mine not wanting to rev when the vehicle is at a standstill until suddenly it launches itself off.

Stanleysteamer said:

Sincerely hoping this has been the cause of mine not wanting to rev when the vehicle is at a standstill until suddenly it launches itself off

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I doubt that the turbo hoses have much to do with vehicle at standstill

sierrafery said:

I doubt that the turbo hoses have much to do with vehicle at standstill

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OK
Then let me describe the symptoms in more detail.
Firstly this seems to be worse once the engine is hot.
But this is what happens. I come to a stop at a red light or the edge of a roundabout for instance.
I want to move away so I push the accelerator pedal and it doesn't move or hardly at all.
I push it right to the floor, the engine doesn't rev up, the vehicle starts to move very slowly, I trickle onto the roundabout or whatever then suddenly it all behaves normally. the engine revs right up and off we go.
Once the vehicle is moving it behaves totally normally. And by "moving" I mean moving quite slowly.
So any suggestions you have I would be extremely grateful for.
I am now back to thinking it must be something to do with electronics. Speed sensor, temp sensor, etc.
What is weird is that if I put it into neutral the engine revs up brilliantly. Just not in D or any other gear.
The MAF is disconnected and I have cleaned the MAP/IAT which didn't seem to be dirty anyway.

HI, the bolded part :

Stanleysteamer said:

I push it right to the floor, the engine doesn't rev up, the vehicle starts to move very slowly,

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is concerning and it can't have anythyng to do with turbo hoses cos it should rev up on throttle demand if it gets enough fuel and eventually not have enough boost and some black smoke in case of hose failure. The fact that it doesnt rev up can be a fuelling or management issue, IIRC you have foxwell so you should record a live data log with it cos cleaning the MAP/IAT doesnt help if it's fubar and it can give such symptom, so can the AAP. If it's auto do a stall test on it.

sierrafery said:

HI, the bolded part : is concerning and it can't have anythyng to do with turbo hoses cos it should rev up on throttle demand if it gets enough fuel and eventually not have enough boost and some black smoke in case of hose failure. The fact that it doesnt rev up can be a fuelling or management issue, IIRC you have foxwell so you should record a live data log with it cos cleaning the MAP/IAT doesnt help if it's fubar and it can give such symptom, so can the AAP. If it's auto do a stall test on it.

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Hi, thanks for this.
I did do a stall test but I am worried that although the temp gauge in the cab said it was up to normal it may not have meant that the ATF was up to normal.
However it passed that test with flying colours.
As you may have realised I am trying to make sure my Foxwell is updated, I'll do this overnight. Then I need to get a new set of hoses so I can eliminate them.
I will then try to make a live data log. I say "try" because I am a bit rubbish with this sort of thing, but I will make a serious effort because I know that people like yourself can interpret these things.
I am totally prepared to get a new MAP/IAT sensor as I think the one I have is 160k miles old.
What is the AAP? No probs getting a new one!
thanks as always for your help.

Stanleysteamer said:

What is the AAP? No probs getting a new one!

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AAP is ambient air pressure sensor(the one in the airbox lid) but better diagnose it well with foxwell first cos i think it will be quite expensive experiment to simply get a new one to rule it out that way... for example the cheapest i found https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/sensor-mhk100600l-p-28517.html , the MAP sensor is not that bad but get only Bosch if you can't afford genuine cos it's way too important for a 10P, the whole fuelling strategy is based on it so some cheaper unbranded aftermarket can cause trouble

sierrafery said:

AAP is ambient air pressure sensor(the one in the airbox lid) but better diagnose it well with foxwell first cos i think it will be quite expensive experiment to simply get a new one to rule it out that way... for example the cheapest i found https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/sensor-mhk100600l-p-28517.html , the MAP sensor is not that bad but get only Bosch if you can't afford genuine cos it's way too important for a 10P, the whole fuelling strategy is based on it so some cheaper unbranded aftermarket can cause trouble

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Thanks for this valuable info!
After 160 k miles I think it deserves decent stuff.
But as you say, it is daft to have a Foxwell and not use it properly.
As with the MAF I wonder how it would get on if I simply unplugged the AAP !
To date, the only sensor I have ever replaced was the MAF and at £120 it wasn't cheap!
So ambient air pressure is used to sort out the fuelling in relation to the atmospheric pressure and also the altitude.???
You may already be aware but our place in France is at 600 metres above sea level. don't know if that makers any difference.
What bothers me is that all the problems only occur once the engine and prolly the transmission get warm.
Is there another ATF temp sensor? As I have already changed the one in the ATF cooler?
Anyway, thanks ever so much for your concern and help.
Stan.

Stanleysteamer said:

What bothers me is that all the problems only occur once the engine and prolly the transmission get warm.

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That's why a live data log is needed cos the engine temp gauge stays at the middle between 70 - 120*C so you can drive it with let's say 110*C ECT input without even knowing it if you dont have additional gauge, the ECU has some limiters for high ECT(engine coolant temp) and FT(fuel temp) inputs

Stanleysteamer said:

To date, the only sensor I have ever replaced was the MAF and at £120 it wasn't cheap!

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being a 10P(Eu2) the MAF is not important especially if the EGR is bypassed, The TPS, MAP/IAT, FT and CPS sensors are mainly used for boost and fuelling management during acceleration