Hi guys!
I have a Freelander manual, TD4, '53 plate, Facelift.
After reading everything I could about fuel issues with Freelander I decided to ask for help as I'm a bit lost and I don't want to guess and buy things just to discover the issue is still there...
I recently changed the fuel filter (that rusty screw...omg)... after a few breakdowns and limp modes (p1260).
While replacing the filter I discovered the old filter was installed backwards by whoever the mechanic was... It was running like that for about a year.... I don't understand how it was possible. In any case, after changing the filter, car started and everything went back to normal...for a while. I also changed the oil and car was running sweet. And premium fuel is a blast.
Present Issue: P1190 Fuel Rail pressure plausibility
I also discovered a P0190 (FR pressure sensor)
P0191 Rail pressure offset test
P0605 Processor fault
But these last three never came back after deleting them. Only P1190.
The hippo has the EGR blanked, a Vortex breather, a new vent filter, air filter clean and I recently cleaned inlet manifold, but without taking the MAP sensor out. All these have been done this spring - summer.
Symptoms-> Rough idle, immediately after starting. RPM goes up and down. It settles after a minute. I start reving, in fist gear it accelerates slowly and with effort and the engine sounds as if it's abused. Basically low power.. I drive a few good minutes in second and third gear with relatively low power, but not that bad. Then as I stop at a traffic light and I accelerate again, usually in 2nd gear, when RPM reaches 1.9-2k it starts limping and engine rattles. Erratic rattle and limping up until RPM goes over 2.5k. Then it stops limping, but still low power. This symptom is exacerbated especially when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd and start accelerating as I release the clutch. 4th gear lags. It picks up slowly.
I went on bypass today and car doesn't push over 70MPH unless slightly downhill when I reach 80MPH. Problems start occurring when RPMs are around 2k. and below. I can hear the rattle and hesitation whenever RPMs drop to 2k. MIL usually comes when engine is warm already.
Occasionally I see smoke. Once it was blue, another time it was grey. It clears quite fast. Again, smoke appears sometimes when I slow down from higher gear and stop to idle.
Start-up:
Car normally starts with 2-3 seconds delay and hesitation. If its warm, no hesitation. Never really had any starting issues after changing fuel filter.
I inspected all hoses. Everything is fine now. I discovered a cracked turbo hose though. I replaced it, but that wasn't the problem apparently.
I did the injector leak test and they don't leak more than 20g a minute.
I cleaned the Camshaft sensor and I realised the screw that holds it in place doesn't screw completely, just spins endlessly, so I had to use some gaffa tape (for now) to make sure it's fixed. But I don't think that is the problem.
I cleaned the High Rail pressure sensor with contact spray, and inspected the wires visually. I cannot guarantee the connections are fine when plugged.
According to diagnostics. HP is around 26000- 28000 Kpa at idle and goes up to 125k at 65-70mph and 3kRMP. The values don't seem that bad, but I suppose fluctuations are concerning.
LOW pressure pump is about 360- 375 at idle (KPa I guess, diagnostic doesn't specify).
It usually fluctuates between 345 min and 390 max even at higher speeds and RPM.
Fuel pressure regulator current -> 0.7 at idle and increases to over 2.10. (1.21 at 62000 KPa high fuel pressure for example )
Inlet pressure 102.2 at idle.
The inlet temperature is most of the times low, starting from 19 degrees and increasing to max 25 I would say.
And the cherry on top of the cake...if I remove the Green HFR Pressure sensor while engine running, the rattle disappears and the engine sounds smooth immediately. I drove without the sensor connected for some time and P1190 never appeared (probably cause it's dependent on the sensor). There was no limping or rattle, just low power... It seems the loom/harness has been changed already as I see the old wires cut next to the green thingy.
So, could you please tell me what all this means? The car limps with sensor connected and also rattles and as soon as it's disconnected rattle stops and engine becomes silent and decently smooth. Could that indicate something with a high probability? I will inspect continuity on the cable tomorrow...but I cannot guarantee the actual contact to the actual sensor is 100% bulletproof. I tried moving the green plastic with engine at tick-over, but nothing really changes. In any case the problem occur under load not when I rev the engine stationary. I would attempt cleaning the sensor, but I've read once it's taken out, it better be replaced. How can I test if the sensor is 100% broken?
I've been trying to solve this for about two weeks now... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I have a Freelander manual, TD4, '53 plate, Facelift.
After reading everything I could about fuel issues with Freelander I decided to ask for help as I'm a bit lost and I don't want to guess and buy things just to discover the issue is still there...
I recently changed the fuel filter (that rusty screw...omg)... after a few breakdowns and limp modes (p1260).
While replacing the filter I discovered the old filter was installed backwards by whoever the mechanic was... It was running like that for about a year.... I don't understand how it was possible. In any case, after changing the filter, car started and everything went back to normal...for a while. I also changed the oil and car was running sweet. And premium fuel is a blast.
Present Issue: P1190 Fuel Rail pressure plausibility
I also discovered a P0190 (FR pressure sensor)
P0191 Rail pressure offset test
P0605 Processor fault
But these last three never came back after deleting them. Only P1190.
The hippo has the EGR blanked, a Vortex breather, a new vent filter, air filter clean and I recently cleaned inlet manifold, but without taking the MAP sensor out. All these have been done this spring - summer.
Symptoms-> Rough idle, immediately after starting. RPM goes up and down. It settles after a minute. I start reving, in fist gear it accelerates slowly and with effort and the engine sounds as if it's abused. Basically low power.. I drive a few good minutes in second and third gear with relatively low power, but not that bad. Then as I stop at a traffic light and I accelerate again, usually in 2nd gear, when RPM reaches 1.9-2k it starts limping and engine rattles. Erratic rattle and limping up until RPM goes over 2.5k. Then it stops limping, but still low power. This symptom is exacerbated especially when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd and start accelerating as I release the clutch. 4th gear lags. It picks up slowly.
I went on bypass today and car doesn't push over 70MPH unless slightly downhill when I reach 80MPH. Problems start occurring when RPMs are around 2k. and below. I can hear the rattle and hesitation whenever RPMs drop to 2k. MIL usually comes when engine is warm already.
Occasionally I see smoke. Once it was blue, another time it was grey. It clears quite fast. Again, smoke appears sometimes when I slow down from higher gear and stop to idle.
Start-up:
Car normally starts with 2-3 seconds delay and hesitation. If its warm, no hesitation. Never really had any starting issues after changing fuel filter.
I inspected all hoses. Everything is fine now. I discovered a cracked turbo hose though. I replaced it, but that wasn't the problem apparently.
I did the injector leak test and they don't leak more than 20g a minute.
I cleaned the Camshaft sensor and I realised the screw that holds it in place doesn't screw completely, just spins endlessly, so I had to use some gaffa tape (for now) to make sure it's fixed. But I don't think that is the problem.
I cleaned the High Rail pressure sensor with contact spray, and inspected the wires visually. I cannot guarantee the connections are fine when plugged.
According to diagnostics. HP is around 26000- 28000 Kpa at idle and goes up to 125k at 65-70mph and 3kRMP. The values don't seem that bad, but I suppose fluctuations are concerning.
LOW pressure pump is about 360- 375 at idle (KPa I guess, diagnostic doesn't specify).
It usually fluctuates between 345 min and 390 max even at higher speeds and RPM.
Fuel pressure regulator current -> 0.7 at idle and increases to over 2.10. (1.21 at 62000 KPa high fuel pressure for example )
Inlet pressure 102.2 at idle.
The inlet temperature is most of the times low, starting from 19 degrees and increasing to max 25 I would say.
And the cherry on top of the cake...if I remove the Green HFR Pressure sensor while engine running, the rattle disappears and the engine sounds smooth immediately. I drove without the sensor connected for some time and P1190 never appeared (probably cause it's dependent on the sensor). There was no limping or rattle, just low power... It seems the loom/harness has been changed already as I see the old wires cut next to the green thingy.
So, could you please tell me what all this means? The car limps with sensor connected and also rattles and as soon as it's disconnected rattle stops and engine becomes silent and decently smooth. Could that indicate something with a high probability? I will inspect continuity on the cable tomorrow...but I cannot guarantee the actual contact to the actual sensor is 100% bulletproof. I tried moving the green plastic with engine at tick-over, but nothing really changes. In any case the problem occur under load not when I rev the engine stationary. I would attempt cleaning the sensor, but I've read once it's taken out, it better be replaced. How can I test if the sensor is 100% broken?
I've been trying to solve this for about two weeks now... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
The car was fine though for over 3 months after cleaning the inlet, which was not jet washed by the way, as I don't have access to such equipment. I just soaked it in degreaser. Also the diagnostics give me a MAP reading, which doesn't seem to be so far from the truth. The only thing I don't understand is why MAP goes from 102.2 to 101 - 100 Kpa when I start reving and only a few seconds later it goes up. I will reinstall EGR and put a wool filter back, but I'm sceptical as most people here seem to have their EGR blanked and cyclone mod installed and are fine. But I'll try anything. As for the spare spares, that sounds amazing 
