High biting point and a dirty left shoe

huffhuff · Jun 24, 2015

Hi guys,

Over 2 months ago, I noticed some fluid on my SafeTPedal. Checked the clutch reservoir, was a bit low so filled it up with dot5 and been OK since.

But, over the last week, my biting point has risen substantially. Almost near very top of pedal, so much so that even resting my foot on the pedal whilst driving engages clutch and I get all rev-tastic. Plus, nice brown stain on my new converse (but fluid level doesn't seem to have dropped?!?)!

Is it likely to be a simple leak? Or do I need to replace master/slave? Or worst case...new clutch?

Cheers in advance,

huffhuff-a-roo

Turboman · Jun 24, 2015

huffhuff said:
Hi guys,

Over 2 months ago, I noticed some fluid on my SafeTPedal. Checked the clutch reservoir, was a bit low so filled it up with dot5 and been OK since.

But, over the last week, my biting point has risen substantially. Almost near very top of pedal, so much so that even resting my foot on the pedal whilst driving engages clutch and I get all rev-tastic. Plus, nice brown stain on my new converse (but fluid level doesn't seem to have dropped?!?)!

Is it likely to be a simple leak? Or do I need to replace master/slave? Or worst case...new clutch?

Cheers in advance,

huffhuff-a-roo

Sounds like you need a new clutch master. Fit, bleed and adjust, if you still have a problem you will have to investigate further.

huffhuff · Jun 24, 2015

Turboman said:
Sounds like you need a new clutch master. Fit, bleed and adjust, if you still have a problem you will have to investigate further.

That is what I was hoping. Is the cylinder one of the parts where I should avoid anything with a blue label?

Turboman · Jun 24, 2015

huffhuff said:
That is what I was hoping. Is the cylinder one of the parts where I should avoid anything with a blue label?

Personally I would get genuine/OEM cylinder. But you know your own usage, requirements and budget.

joeyb · Jun 24, 2015

The two issues sound unrelated to me.
Leaking/low fluid/air filled clutch hydrolicks would give a low clutch pedal.
High clutch pedal with clutch slip points to actual clutch pressure / friction plate.

Could the brown stain be water releated ?

Time will tell soon enough, hope I am wrong !!!

reiny · Jun 24, 2015

I don't think DOT5 is suitable for your vehicle either.

zeaphod · Jun 24, 2015

Avoid the cheaper cylinders if you want to avoid changing it again in 6 months. A seal kit should be available - fine as long as the cylinder isn't scored internally. As said before, a high biting point is not usually a symptom of a leaky master. It's usually easy to tell if the leak is brake fluid, rather than water - it smells and feels different.

sp00k · Jun 25, 2015

High biting point for me was the pivot point gradually distorting the fork until it exploded through it. I defiantly noticed a change in pedal feel about a month before it failed but put it down to imagination - until it failed.

Do you really rest your foot on the clutch pedal or is that just for testing purposes - had to ask :bounce:

trax · Jun 25, 2015

as above oem master is cheap enough. i'd also do the slave and pipes while you are at it.

and i hope you meant dot 5.1, but 4 will do (not 5)

huffhuff · Jun 25, 2015

trax said:
as above oem master is cheap enough. i'd also do the slave and pipes while you are at it.

and i hope you meant dot 5.1, but 4 will do (not 5)

It was a typo. I put dot4 in (as per the manual)

huffhuff · Jun 25, 2015

sp00k said:
High biting point for me was the pivot point gradually distorting the fork until it exploded through it. I defiantly noticed a change in pedal feel about a month before it failed but put it down to imagination - until it failed.

Do you really rest your foot on the clutch pedal or is that just for testing purposes - had to ask :bounce:

I'm a short arse. My legs just wave about in mid air if I don't rest them on something

huffhuff · Jun 25, 2015

trax said:
as above oem master is cheap enough. i'd also do the slave and pipes while you are at it.

and i hope you meant dot 5.1, but 4 will do (not 5)

So, is this all I need? It's a 2001 TD5

Master Cylinder; 550732G | 550732G Clutch master cylinder-S3 - TRW Lucas

Slave Cylinder; FTC5202TRW | Clutch Slave Cylinder - Lucas TRW

Clutch Hose; NRC2211 | Clutch Hose

Cheers in advance

trax · Jun 25, 2015

huffhuff said:
So, is this all I need? It's a 2001 TD5

Master Cylinder; 550732G | 550732G Clutch master cylinder-S3 - TRW Lucas

Slave Cylinder; FTC5202TRW | Clutch Slave Cylinder - Lucas TRW

Clutch Hose; NRC2211 | Clutch Hose

Cheers in advance

looks alright.

there are other pipes, go stick your head under the bonnet and see if your pipework is alright. if it is just change the master and slave

also i'd use island-4x4 , bit cheaper and good service

huffhuff · Jun 25, 2015

trax said:
looks alright.

there are other pipes, go stick your head under the bonnet and see if your pipework is alright. if it is just change the master and slave

also i'd use island-4x4 , bit cheaper and good service

Will do. Ta muchly indeed

sp00k · Jun 25, 2015

I went for a delphi master, slave and flexi. Slightly more pricey but good quality. I would question the quality of a <£3 flexi give the pain in the arse that they are to change.

High biting point and a dirty left shoe

huffhuff

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Turboman

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huffhuff

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joeyb

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reiny

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zeaphod

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sp00k

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trax

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huffhuff

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trax

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