Help adjusting tracking pretty please :)

Hi guys, I'm a novice home mechanic and have researched how to measure and adjust the tracking, 2 degrees toe out etc..but inspection of the only bit I can see to adjust has not given me a clue how to actually adjust it or even what way I should be twisting said item! Sorry for completely crap description..

Basically I am asking if someone could post a description of how to adjust the actual...track rod? If that is the right term for it (this is embarrassing!) after one has measured using the string method and ascertained how much adjustment is needed..and the method of the *actual adjustment* if possible

I am learning gradually how to do mechanical things so for all those out there grinding their teeth please bear with me

ps I blanked my EGR using a kit the other day, total success! I was very pleased

Undo the clamps at both ends, then get a pair of Stillsons and twist the rod.

Goind one way will turn your wheels out, the other will turn them in.

Simples!

The tracking rod is the one that links the two front hubs (the shorter one from steering box to one hub is the drag link). The ends are threaded into the rod, one left-hand and the other right-hand thread with lock nuts.

If you loosen the lock nuts and turn the rod you lengthen or shorten the rod.

IIRC you turn the top of the rod towards the front of the vehicle to lengthen but if you look at the threads you'll be able to tell

If the track rod and ball joints are mature (as in crusty with age) don't try to adjust things in place, because it's often impossible. Break the taper on both ball joints, and pull the whole thing out, and then use a vise to hold the rod in place while you honk on the ball joints. I used the old adjustable curtain rod toe in tool to gauge the difference in length between front and back of the rim doing mine and it worked well.

Oscar90 said:

Hi guys, I'm a novice home mechanic and have researched how to measure and adjust the tracking, 2 degrees toe out etc..but inspection of the only bit I can see to adjust has not given me a clue how to actually adjust it or even what way I should be twisting said item! Sorry for completely crap description..

Basically I am asking if someone could post a description of how to adjust the actual...track rod? If that is the right term for it (this is embarrassing!) after one has measured using the string method and ascertained how much adjustment is needed..and the method of the *actual adjustment* if possible

I am learning gradually how to do mechanical things so for all those out there grinding their teeth please bear with me

ps I blanked my EGR using a kit the other day, total success! I was very pleased

Click to expand...

As you should be. Well played.

Now you're learning about the front end. Has it been munching tyres?

Fantastic response guys! I was particularly wondering about those clamps and how to do it - twisting, I see!

I will get on to it in the morning as after I had my swivel joints changed (£500 inc fitting from a decent Landy garage) my tracking went all to hell, understandably and frankly has chewed the crap out of the outside edges of my tyres...I wouldn't be surprised if the front wheels are toeing in by 5 degrees or more! The situation was becoming desperate and yet I knew it should be easy and so I begrudged the money for a garage man yet was utterly flummoxed!

Here's hoping for a good result with it

Beers,

Tom


Edit: just seen your reply, WSR yes, fronts have had lots of tread worn off but are still at 6mm over the affected area...however they were new on... Hey ho!

Next job btw is swapping the knackered (as in clearly hasn't worked for years) rear wiper motor!

I'm a numpty with two RRCs, so I'm no expert on the Defender, but you can do this yourself. Just loosen the clamps on the track rod, tap them out of the way. Clean out the slots that you'll find under the clamp and maybe try to get a screwdriver into the slot and spread it a bit and juice it with penetrating oil. Then remove your ball joints, clean the threads and then give them a nice dose of anti-seize, or copper slip as call it, before you put them back together.

Where abouts in Tyne and Wear are you?

Oldseadog said:

Where abouts in Tyne and Wear are you?

Click to expand...

Between Washington & Gateshead are you local too?

I have tried to sort it this morning, everything greased and so on, pliers just not up to it though (or maybe I am weak) had to google what Stillsons are as my knowledge really is basic, but I've just put 2 aside at a plumbers merchants for £8 so no doubt they'll do the trick when I resume later today!

Oscar90 said:

Between Washington & Gateshead are you local too?

I have tried to sort it this morning, everything greased and so on, pliers just not up to it though (or maybe I am weak) had to google what Stillsons are as my knowledge really is basic, but I've just put 2 aside at a plumbers merchants for £8 so no doubt they'll do the trick when I resume later today!

Click to expand...

I used stillsons when removing my old shocks. Made a hell of a difference! i'd tried all the various tools I had, then borrowed some off the neighbour - job done in minutes. The right tool for the job can make all the difference!

Sp00k is in Washington, and I'm in Tynemouth.

Try sending him a PM as he's nearer than I am.

I don't have any Stillsons unfortunately. I would like some though! I was admiring some in Machine Mart a couple of weeks ago, in the Gateshead store as it happens. I'm trying to be a good boy though and not 'waste' money on tools.

Oscar90 said:

Between Washington & Gateshead are you local too?

Click to expand...

That's my daily commute. If you see a yellow 110 being driven around by a handsome young guy, then someone has stolen my Landy.

It's traditional to introduce yourself: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f20/

sp00k said:

I don't have any Stillsons unfortunately. I would like some though! I was admiring some in Machine Mart a couple of weeks ago, in the Gateshead store as it happens. I'm trying to be a good boy though and not 'waste' money on tools.



That's my daily commute. If you see a yellow 110 being driven around by a handsome young guy, then someone has stolen my Landy.

It's traditional to introduce yourself: Introduce Yourself - Land Rover Zone

Click to expand...

I bought two Stillsons yesterday from the plumb center (one from Gateshead one from Scotswood road as they only stock one per store....) and tried them this morning and they were ****e. Just as well they were 4 quid each...

Also, all I succeeded in doing today was rotating the track rod in the ball joint socket...the clamps are loose but the bar doth resist, so far.

btw you'll have seen my 90 parked on the road (I suspect) if you commute as you mentioned

Wth? I wrote a fairly long response here last night and it's not appeared....

That one?

Drag link (from steering box to axle) should measure 924mm from ball joint centre to centre, track rod should measure 1215mm centre to centre. Job done.

Oscar90 said:

I bought two Stillsons yesterday from the plumb center (one from Gateshead one from Scotswood road as they only stock one per store....) and tried them this morning and they were ****e. Just as well they were 4 quid each...

Click to expand...

Four quid for a set of Stillsons

My 12" set cost me around £20 almost 25 years ago!

You get what you pay for!

Oldseadog said:

You get what you pay for!

Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more, buy cheap buy twice.

My 12 inch CK grips are older than me and still look work as well as when my grandfather bought them!

blue beasty said:

That one?

Click to expand...

Yeah....?

Boris113 said:

Couldn't agree more, buy cheap buy twice.

My 12 inch CK grips are older than me and still look work as well as when my grandfather bought them!

Click to expand...

Yes... I see that now

These ones: Center 10" pipe wrench

Anyway, I also purchased today a "lift kit" from hellfrauds which includes a handy wee trolley slider thing so I'm going back underneath the LR in a mo rain notwithstanding