Hello and please help 300tdi wont start

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

L james

New Member
Posts
1
Location
uk
Id be very grateful for any help, I have a defender fitted with a 300tdi which has been idle but under cover for 2 years. The engine has done in the region of 60k and has been well maintained and always started on the button previously.
I recently attempted to start my defender to no avail, I assumed at first the diesel had run back so kept spinning it over for a while but with no luck, I checked for leaks or suspect pipework and fittings but all looks ok. I slackened the injector pipes to bleed the system but still the engine would only fire briefly.
I was mindful of the tendency for modern diesel to deteriorate so i drained the tank and replenished with fresh diesel and bled through. There seems to be good pressure at the filter so am assuming lift pump is fine.
I tried a spare injector in the injector pipe but the injector dripped rather than sprayed when cranked over, I decided at that point to change the injector pump, which I have now done but still no good. With a spare injector fitted to the injector pipe and the engine cranked the injectors do now spray but still no sign of the engine firing up.
The timing is good, there is no broken rockers or anything but still no sign of starting, the stop solenoid clicks when energised and obviously is opening as I have fuel delivered to the injectors. Ive tried spraying Easy Start into the inlet manifold and still the engine wont fire up?? All fuses are ok but am i correct in thinking these are traditional old school engines which only need electric in the form of the stop solenoid supply and the starter supply?
Any suggestions gratefully received, many thanks
 
Can't help sorry, but if you can get this moved to the defender section, someone with the know-how is more likely to see it and be able to help you ;)

And welcome to the forum :)
 
How sure are you about the timing?

When the pipes are off the back of the IP, you get 4 good squirts as it cranks, right?

Basically, if you've got fuel, air, and compression, it should fire, but only if the timing is right.

If you're dubious about the IP, I've been told to check the rear banjo bolt before - the one with the pinhole that maintains pump internal pressure. I've never had issue there, but I guess it does mess up some peoples setups.

Also, are you 100℅ sure you have no air? Lift pumps die, and you don't notice when the IP is all working fine. But, if its dead, then even bleeding the new IP out will be right difficult. It gives a good squirt with the manual lever, right?
 
Back
Top