heater not working

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Vertuas

Active Member
Posts
508
Hi everyone,

I know that I post this every year once the weather gets cold, but my heater is still useless.

Once the engine (TD4) is up to temperature, I get luke warm air from the heater with it set on full heat.

Sometime, whilst driving, the air from the heater goes cold. I thing that this is when the revs go down, like stopping at the light, the other day.

Under the bonnet, both the feed and retuen pipes forn the heater matrix get hot.

Yesterday, with with the engine cold, i tried to bleed the system (again) using the little bleed screw on the heater hose where it goes through the firewall. I wait for all the air to be gone. I had a little more heat than usually on my journey, but back to normal again this morning.

Does anyone have any idea why my heater does not throw out any hot air? It it a 3 year old airlock?

I read that there is a special nak to bleading the thing, I can't find it on the forums, does anyone have a link to it?

Many Thanks
 
sounds as though you have a blocked system, or it could just be you in car heater matrix, so undo both hoses to it and shove a hose pipe on one of the pipes and turn it on full blast and keep it on until the water goes clean then reconect and do not forget new anti freeze, then bleed your pipe again when your engin is hot with the controls on hot. hope this helps
 
teddywood1 said:
sounds as though you have a blocked system, or it could just be you in car heater matrix, so undo both hoses to it and shove a hose pipe on one of the pipes and turn it on full blast and keep it on until the water goes clean then reconect and do not forget new anti freeze, then bleed your pipe again when your engin is hot with the controls on hot. hope this helps
Click to expand...


Will get some anti freeze (AOT - red stuff, that much i do know) at the weekend and try and give it a blast out.

Am i correct in thinking that the hose with the bleed value in it, is the return pipe (one on the left looking from from of car) ?
 
Last edited:
Nope, stat not been changed, the temp gauge is always on normal, no under/overheat.

Would a knackered stat not show on the dash? May be worth getting it changed I guess.
 
if the stat had gone it would either be open then the engin would run cold or it would be closed and then you would have overheating i would think it is a blocked heater unit
 
I have looked up "how to change td4 stat", hell that aint pretty is it!!!

Will get some anitfreeze and try the hose in the heater.....if that don't work I'll have a ring around for a price for the stat changed. I ain't even going to attempt that!

Is it worth getting someone to read the coolant temp from the ECU? I know that it should be 88 deg C.
 
There a bleed on the heater hose, I've been bleeding the damn thing every winter for the past 3 years and it still don't work :)
 
Best to open the bleed-screw first thing in the morning immediately after you've started up the cold engine - any air tends to gather around where the bleed screw is. As Teddy says, make sure you have the heater set to max.

Don't forget the second bleed-screw which Haynes doesn't mention and even some LR mechanics don't seem to know about. You will be able to see it if you look from the battery side down into the space above the exhaust link to the EGR. AFAIK it is to help cool the exhaust gasses before the EGR and I think another little pipe which goes to a cooler beside the oil-filter housing - perhaps other little rads too. TD4 coolant refreshes parts other engines' coolant doesn't reach. :p

As for the exact temperature - these engines tend to run colder than most folks think - it's highly unlikely that you'll get as high a reading as 88degreesC. For UK use in winter the big rad tends to be overcooled and mine only gets to 83 or so when working hard towing or climbing a long steep hill.

There is nothing wrong with my stat as it heats up from cold pretty quick.

In summer in S. Europe I only ever see 86 if/when the ambiant temp is over 30.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
I have noticed the heater is very poor in my freelander and iam changing the fan belt
and checking the heating system tomorrow, i will flush the cooling system and see if that
cures it.i have noticed it takes a long time for the engine to fully warm up.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Singvogel,

I have been trying to bleed from the rad return screw, I wasn't aware of the second one.

I'm going to try and clear the heater matrix first.

It does take a little while to get up to temperature, but once its there, the temp gauge never moves. Just don't understand why not bloody heat come out.
 
I couldn't find that other bleeding screw either after my heater packed-in the other day, it's never been brilliant but when I really needed it (wet from a day out in some very wet fields) it gave up.

But on my Hippolander TD4, the failure was caused by a loss of coolant. Now my Hippo has a bit of a drink problem, and I check regularly and top up as required. I don't remember when I last checked, but was shocked to find the expansion tank was empty (the temp gauge hadn't shown there was a problem).

I can't see any leaks, and there is no water in the engine oil which I just drained today, the only thing I can see are a few cracks appearing around the filler neck of the header tank, but no sign of steam of fluid loss here. Does the Freelander have any known weak spots in the cooling, I'm hoping the IRD cooler isn't the culprit - I've heard they can rust away.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but air-locks need a way to get the air from, and this can be a leak.
 
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