Heater Matrix O Rings - Eeek

Had my 99 DT for two weeks and changed the coolant on Saturday. Wet footwell today!! Hope to follow this guide at the weekend to change the o rings!

I wonder if that is why the glove box of the range rover I have was not installed properly. I guest this is an easiest job on the US version. Someone remove the heater hoses from the car so I believe that this was the problem they had and instead of solving the problem, they remove the hoses. Is there a way to test the pipes before i spend some money on the hoses?

Hi chaps,
First of all, huge thanks for the informative photos and walk throughs on this site.
BUT, I have a problem.
I'm in the process of renewing my o rings. I've removed all the trim etc, and gained access to the screw holding the O ring connector, but it is completely rounded off.
I can't for the life of me shift it.
Is drilling it out an option? If so, what size drill should I use?
Would I be best replacing the screw with an Allen bolt? M5? Length?
All help gratefully received!!!!
Cheers, Paul.

Unless you remove the dash you don't have many options other than to drill it. With the dash out you have significantly more access and should be able to get some vicegrips on the head. One of mine was rounded but I managed to get it out with dash out. I used a hex headed screw for the replacement so the next Guy has an easier time of it but can't remember what the lenght or pitch was.

Thanks.
Do you (or anyone else) have any experience of screw extractors?
I'm guessing it's probably worth a try before I destroy the threads by drilling!!!

I have had good results from them, but you may struggle with space....

I do seem to recall seeing a thread where someone used some kind of grinding paste on the tip of the screwdriver, to increase the friction on the worn screw, and it worked. I was lucky, it came out first time...

Stu

In the next to last pic, you see i used an Allen bolt. It was slightly too long, so I fitted the over size nut under the head, acting like a thick washer.

Stu

superkingtango said:

Thanks.
Do you (or anyone else) have any experience of screw extractors?
I'm guessing it's probably worth a try before I destroy the threads by drilling!!!

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Are you sure its stuck not just turning around easily?
Asking because i thought mine was stuck and rounded but in fact when i took of the pipes in the engine bay and wriggled it all fell apart.
Sometime a flat head screw driver can get a grip.
Make sure you disconnect the hoses in bay and its 10000 times easier.
I didn't cut anything or dismantled the car as some pictures show and can be done with a long screw driver from hevac or radio unit when out.
Got some 500 mm long screw drivers and its easy, sure you cant see but take a photo from foot well up towards the thing and it can be done by feeling,
get a helper and its a 1/2 hour job, most spent on draining/refilling coolant.
Careful not to over-tighten the new screw and you have bigger problems, i just fitted a new 30 mm multi head and it doesnt need tighten much, its aluminum you're dealing with, also found the length doesn't matter too much i.e. slightly to long no problem- just more turns, nothing behind it.

Nope, definitely stuck. Rounded off a good 'un!
Thanks a lot for your help chaps, much appreciated.
I've ordered a screw extractor off t'interweb, and will let you know how I get on.
I'll post some pictures of my predicament.
Cheers!!

Will be interesting to see how that goes. I think I would have had a go at drilling the head off the screw with a carbide drill, the usual method for aircraft rivets.

Stu

Jackpot.
Screw extractor arrived, followed the instructions, out came the little bleeder.
Marvellous bit of kit. It's called 'grabit', and it works a treat.
Thanks again for all the advice & the excellent forum - couldn't have done it without.
All that is left now is re-filling and re-assembly of the dash bits.
Is it ok to fill with water, just to check for leaks, before filling finally with coolant?
Ta.

One other thing, is there anything I needed to consider when reconnecting the airbag?
I assume it's ok to have the battery connected with the ignition key out?
Last thing I need is the bloody thing going off!!!

If you are doing it by the book then you should disconnect the battery. I disconnect and connect airbags with battery connected and ignition in the off position with key in the ignition

But you do as you feel comfortable I take no responsibility if you get a smack in the face with the pillow

Lol, understood!
I'll try to keep out of the way!
Cheers.

superkingtango said:

Lol, understood!
I'll try to keep out of the way!
Cheers.

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Don't play with fire, disconnect the battery.

Datatek said:

Don't play with fire, disconnect the battery.

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As above....

any water pipes under or level with passenger side glove box

I still say do it the easy way, and take the dash out, but not using LR method.

Takes about 2 hours and means you can fix all the heater flaps, etc at the same time.