Heater fuse blowing on TD5 defender.

Hi,

yesterday in the frost, the heater fuse blew on my Landy, I replaced it and it was blowing, but not full on. Then it stopped, smoke and smell coming from behind the clocks on the dash, and when I checked the fuse, it had blown and the yellow plastic had melted. Any advice will be gratefully received. Thanks, Clive.

Sounds like your fan has seized up and pulled a large electrical load trying to turn it before blowing the fuse, was the fuse the correct Amp rate, if it were too high it would have created a lot of heat before blowing.

It should be a 20A fuse which also protects the cigar lighter.
Unplug everything you have running off the lighter socket and try again.
Remember that fuses are only fitted to protect the equipment.

thanks both, i'll try that.

Managed to get my hand down the duct on the n/s wing, and fan was solid. got it moving freely by hand, but still the blower isn't working, although it's not blowing the fuse any more. I don't know what to do next??

If the drain for the duct is blocked then water can collect and if it is freezing the fuse will blow.
As well as the fuse holder you will have to check the state of the fan switch, smoke from the dash may idicate it has gone.

Dead common defender feature, new fan needed asap.

Thanks both, do you know if the switch something i could attempt myself, or should i get it to the garage?

Dead simple, and if it's all an adventure, it will build your self-confidence.
Remove the instrument binacle and that will expose the side of the heater control slide.
The switch should be visible, and you should be able to remove it by taking out the two retaining screws.
Remember which of the spade connectors goes where, as apparently it won't be happy if they are put back the wrong way round (a couple of bits of tape comes in useful to mark which is which)
Stick your new switch back in place, shove the spades on, screw the whole lot back in place and Robert's yer fathers brother!

Oldseadog said:

Dead simple, and if it's all an adventure, it will build your self-confidence.
Remove the instrument binacle and that will expose the side of the heater control slide.
The switch should be visible, and you should be able to remove it by taking out the two retaining screws.
Remember which of the spade connectors goes where, as apparently it won't be happy if they are put back the wrong way round (a couple of bits of tape comes in useful to mark which is which)
Stick your new switch back in place, shove the spades on, screw the whole lot back in place and Robert's yer fathers brother!

Click to expand...

I think the man means switch as is swap the fan itself not the control switch?

Clive jones said:

Thanks both, do you know if the switch something i could attempt myself, or should i get it to the garage?

Click to expand...

Basically top wing grill off, inner wing trunking off, both a doddle, then a few control cables (mark them) and the top and bottom mounting bolts/nuts, Iirc bottom might need a helper as the bolts go right through into the footwell.
Hour if you have done it before and two for a first time and thats not rushing at all and its nowhere as scary as a modern car.

New motor fitted to my 200 (basically same heater box as 300 and td5) a few months back and have to say its bit of a revelation having a working fan that actually blows nicely.

If you search ebay for heater boxes/fans and look at the 2nd hand ones it will give you an idea of what you are up against, new box to bulkhead seal is a good idea, I made a new one from a camping mat.

lynall said:

I think the man means switch as is swap the fan itself not the control switch?

Click to expand...

The instructions were for replacing the switch on the heater slide control, as I had gathered that (probably mistakenly) the fan motor was now running freely.
If you have a mulitmeter, it should be fairly eas to check the supply to the fan by breaking the plug on top of the fan box, and seeing what voltage you get there.
Whilst you are at it, you ould check the resistance of the fan motor windings. An open circuit would probablyy indicate that you need a replacement fan.
As Lynall said earlier, it's easy enough to swap over.

I suggested checking the fan swich as the OP had seen smoke comming from the dash.

All things electrical run on smoke,and when the smoke escapes they are fubar.