Head gasket done and it's still overheating!!!

My 1.8 k series head gasket 1st went on 27000 miles and when I drove it from the garage it over heated so I took it back, they sorted it and I never went there again! But it's just gone again at 50700 miles and a few days after its overheating again! when it went in it had the mls head gasket strengthened head bolts new water pump and new timing belt. Any ideas what could be wrong before I take it back in the morning? Possibly thermostat? Any help would be great, thanks

Burn it

Its trying to burn itself

did they replace the plastic locating pegs in the head?

did they bleed the system correctly?

i invested in the remote thermostat after changing my headgasket, it does help a bit.

nathan5346 said:

Burn it

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I was close to rolling it off a cliff earlier but I managed to calm myself down lol

Freelaner said:

did they replace the plastic locating pegs in the head?

did they bleed the system correctly?

i invested in the remote thermostat after changing my headgasket, it does help a bit.

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I'll ask about these in the morning cheers. If all else fails does anybody know of a landrover specialist in south Wales near Llanelli / Carmarthen / Swansea area?

Garboy88 said:

I'll ask about these in the morning cheers. If all else fails does anybody know of a landrover specialist in south Wales near Llanelli / Carmarthen / Swansea area?

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should read replace plastic locating dowels for steel ones

Freelaner said:

should read replace plastic locating dowels for steel ones

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Kk thanks I'll let u guys know what the garage says tomorrow hopefully they will sort it f.o.c lol

thermostat being changed tomorrow morning hopefully all will be well after that!!!

Was head skimmed, also look for black marks on the head a sign of head movement and seal on gasket passing. Is the cooling system prressurising. Sometimes headgasket goes from cylinder to cooling system, you'll notice temperature rising when going up hill. Try taking one plug out each time and running, if so it'll spit at you

It's done 23700 miles on the new gasket which is'nt to bad really. I know that sounds harsh but the mls gaskets won't fix every engine permanently, far from it in fact. The liner hights are critical as the mls gasket doesn't compensate like composite gasket.

Nodge68 said:

It's done 23700 miles on the new gasket which is'nt to bad really. I know that sounds harsh but the mls gaskets won't fix every engine permanently, far from it in fact. The liner hights are critical as the mls gasket doesn't compensate like composite gasket.

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The compression rings do give you a very small margin for error. My liners were microns away from flush and ok so far . Mind you that's probably the EWP more than anything - it's like the engine's bleed'n nanny.

Has it got the modified thermostat? if so check no one has fitted a new stat in the old housing as it should have been removed.
Also if you have the new stat (plastic one in the hoses) make sure the pipes have been put back on in the correct order, I know this from experience:frusty:

How far did you drive it with it overheated ?
If the engine gets too hot the liners move in the block and dodn't sit properly.
The head can also go soft so that when you change the gasket it works for a while then it goes again.
The k series engine is a very fickle engine.
Push the liners down and measure how far they protude out the block.

Mike

don't touch the liners at all as this will definately loosen them.

use a straight edge or measure to see if they are proud of the block, if they are leave alone

mike lotus said:

How far did you drive it with it overheated ?
If the engine gets too hot the liners move in the block and dodn't sit properly.
The head can also go soft so that when you change the gasket it works for a while then it goes again.
The k series engine is a very fickle engine.
Push the liners down and measure how far they protude out the block.

Mike

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As soon as the heater gauge went up just over half way (between 1/2 and 3/4) I stopped so hopefully it will be Arite. They are waiting on a o ring now so I'm having it back tomorrow.

Without sounding patronising do you know there are 2 bleed screws on the K series?? So may need a good bleed, also try raising the front of the vehicle so the rad is at the highest point to get all the air out......

check the HGF FAQ in the FAQ section.

did they check liner heights?
did they move pistons with head off?
did they change the rail?

check coolant bottle/cap for cracks

Right I've just had it back and I've asked all the above questions and all seems ok and I trust the garage and the man I am dealing with. But it's still overheating! So... it was so hot that the pipe going to the top of the rad was shaking about like mad! Then I carefully felt it and it was hot hot hot and then I felt the pipe coming out of the bottom of the rad and it was stone cold! Is it supposed to be like this or is the rad blocked up?

no it's not supposed to be like that, as you say the rad could be fubar'ed.
only one way to find out................remove and flush