has anyone had to do eas pressure switch?

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ex darksider

New Member
Posts
77
Location
norwich
hi, posted eas help!!!!! a bit ago,checked for leaks none at the valve block none at sacks (should'nt be either 2 months old),none at joins,im thinking could be pressure switch(been googling),or internal valve block leak:(
 
been there mate but should'nt the car go down over night if valve block has a problem,going away friday norwich to devon and i'm ****ting burning pump out.
 
ex darksider said:
been there mate but should'nt the car go down over night if valve block has a problem,going away friday norwich to devon and i'm ****ting burning pump out.
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The pump does cut out does it not? and you hear a blast of air from the exhaust? Are you checking this with the bonnet open by any chance? cos if you are I can tell you the pump cycles and stops cycles and stops continuously on mine with the bonnet open which as far as I can work out is correct.
 
Hi ther.

If you're going by the error code, all it usually means when it reports the pressure switch is that the pressure in the block isn't getting high enough to make the switch trip.

From what I can gather this is usually down to a worn pump or a leak inside the valve block somewhere. It's hardly ever a fault with the switch itself.

Mine has exactly the same problem and gives an EAS fault every so often. I'm planning to overhaul the block and pump once everything else stops breaking and gives me the time to do it!

Guy.
 
hi kooky guy you are suffering from lack of hours in the day,i'm glad i'm not the only one,just to clarify air springs x4 done 6-8 weeks ago,pump rebuilt yesterday,no faults on dash have'nt had it pluugged in,does'nt go down over night(would it if valve block is suspect).pump is getting very hot and it seems to pump for no reason i.e no need to level out.and seems like it runs to thermal cut out hence me thinking pressure switch may be fu£$ed.doing my head in.:confused:
 
It wouldn't necessarily go down if there was a leak in the valve bock - it would depend where it is. Mine used to go down overnight but has stopped doing it now.

It's one corner on mine (proved by leaving the tailgate slightly open to disable the self levelling) but as I said, it's stopped doing it at the moment. I'm still getting the pressure switch faults randomly.

How long ago did you do the pump? It takes a while before the eas gives a fault if there is a pressure problem.

Does your pump ever switch off? Mine certainly seems to run then switch off then start again within seconds for odd periods....

Have you looked on the rws solutions web pages? I'm sure there will be a guide there for testing the pressure switch.

Guy
 
pump runs for minutes at a time then shuts off then on again then when i think it gets hot it cuts out for a while,pump was done yesterday with the dutch ebay kit,will do your tailgate open thing overnight see how goes,cheers for your thought on it.
 
ex darksider said:
pump runs for minutes at a time then shuts off then on again then when i think it gets hot it cuts out for a while,pump was done yesterday with the dutch ebay kit,will do your tailgate open thing overnight see how goes,cheers for your thought on it.
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Try not to let the pump run till the thermal cutout kicks in, the thermostat chip will only operate so many times before it burns out completely and your pump is screwed. You can get replacement chips off fleabay for around £20, which is taking the mickey really, as if you buy them in bulk from an electronics supplier they're only about £2.50! Was thinking next time I have enough spare cash:rolleyes: I might buy a load and pass em on at a much better price.
 
ex darksider said:
pump runs for minutes at a time then shuts off then on again then when i think it gets hot it cuts out for a while,pump was done yesterday with the dutch ebay kit,will do your tailgate open thing overnight see how goes,cheers for your thought on it.
Click to expand...

Hi again mate, any increase in vibration from the pump after fitting the Dutch kit? I had increased vibration along with increased pump running time, so I took 10 mins to pull the pump, pop the end cap off and turn the piston cylinder around by 180 deg to try to re-seat it. Assembled again. It seemed to work, less vibration and pump running time. Drove 500 miles last weekend without a problem :D (famous last words :rolleyes:).
Maybe you could get one of the emergency valve kit's off eBay in time for the weekend? Should be a good backup if you have no other leaks. On my shopping list for sure.
 
Had another thought this morning while walking the dog (as you do).

have you checked for leaks on the air tank and the air drier canister and the pipework to them?

I have a vague recollection that the air drier o rings can go. That would certainly explain a lack of pressure.

Just a thought.

Guy
 
cheers kooky guy done your tailgate open trick and she had gone down allround about 1/2 inch,checked drier yesterday,so must be internal leak in block,as i said before going on holiday to devon from norwich thats lots of miles and i dont want to to leave her behind nor pay some hire car weasles £££'s for 9 days hire in a corsa,so i've just ordered a brand new valve block gauranteed 48 hour delivery (supposedly) £500 from p38 spares,i know i could rebuild myself but with work and all the other s$%£ that occupies my life i'm f£$%ed.
 
ex darksider said:
cheers kooky guy done your tailgate open trick and she had gone down allround about 1/2 inch,checked drier yesterday,so must be internal leak in block,as i said before going on holiday to devon from norwich thats lots of miles and i dont want to to leave her behind nor pay some hire car weasles £££'s for 9 days hire in a corsa,so i've just ordered a brand new valve block gauranteed 48 hour delivery (supposedly) £500 from p38 spares,i know i could rebuild myself but with work and all the other s$%£ that occupies my life i'm f£$%ed.
Click to expand...

Strange for it to go down all round. That does kind of suggest a central leak of some kind. Have you been over the air tank and associated piping for leaks? How long did you leave it?

Blimey, expensive! Still, it ought to give you peace of mind. Just hope it solves the problem. Did you find anything on rws solutions for testing the pressure switch? The fact that it dropped suggests that there is actually a leak though.

P38 spares are pretty good for their deliveries so you should get it in time. Was that the fastest he could do it? I'm sure I've had stuff next day from them.

You could get some of your money back by overhauling the old one and flogging it on fleabay as reconditioned. Just a thought. I certainly would.

Guy
 
thinks i will deffo rebuild old one and fleabay it,so you think it could be a tank leak,know that could pop an artrery!!when i get time will try to upload them pics.i think i miss my landcruiser.£500 was rich but what can you do,so i've done all the bags the pump and soon the valve block will the tank and air lines be it for another 120000:rolleyes:
 
ex darksider said:
thinks i will deffo rebuild old one and fleabay it,so you think it could be a tank leak,know that could pop an artrery!!when i get time will try to upload them pics.i think i miss my landcruiser.£500 was rich but what can you do,so i've done all the bags the pump and soon the valve block will the tank and air lines be it for another 120000:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Well a tank leak might be a reason. It's worth checking it, or at least the line going into it (I doubt it's the tank itself), but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't make the car drop so valve block seems more likely.

Fingers crossed!

Guy
 
will double check all lines and tank in a bit,do you know if you have to do an eas reset if you have the block out,just wondering coz my car does'nt seem to quick on throwing dash faults,before i did the sacks i could drive on the bumpstops with no eas fault on dash and i'm not getting any fault know.
 
ex darksider said:
will double check all lines and tank in a bit,do you know if you have to do an eas reset if you have the block out,just wondering coz my car does'nt seem to quick on throwing dash faults,before i did the sacks i could drive on the bumpstops with no eas fault on dash and i'm not getting any fault know.
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I'm not sure, but I would suspect that if you remove it and replace it with the new one without turning the ignition on then you'll probably be ok. Be safer to leave a door or the tailgate open too so that the sdelf levelling is disabled.

You may need to depressurise the system though before you remove it - do you have access to the EAS Unlock software?

Guy
 
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