Grinding/vibrating noise when turning right

Chaps, when turning right (but not always) I'm feeling and hearing a short vibrating/grinding noise through the floor... Seems to be from the back right wheel, but is felt all the way through the floor.

Is this sign of IRD failure? Expensive? Do I need to get this fixed ASAP?

Thanks in advance for any help and advice!

LOGIKSTATE said:

Chaps, when turning right (but not always) I'm feeling and hearing a short vibrating/grinding noise through the floor... Seems to be from the back right wheel, but is felt all the way through the floor.

Is this sign of IRD failure? Expensive? Do I need to get this fixed ASAP?

Thanks in advance for any help and advice!

Click to expand...

Crap, I've read some more forum posts, could it be the VCU?

I'm on 114,000 miles!

LOGIKSTATE said:

Crap, I've read some more forum posts, could it be the VCU?

I'm on 114,000 miles!

Click to expand...

Hi L,

I was just on the point of posting that idea to you. This needs urgent diagnosis.

Look on the bright side - the VCU is the cheapest part of the drive train - the IRD or the rear diff cost much more and IRD are like hen's teeth.

Check it out and if it is the VCU then Bell Engineering is the place that no-one has faulted, unlike many other places.

Get new prop-shaft bearings at the same time and check the Universal joints too.

Hopefully you've caught it in time.

Good luck.

Singvogel.

Test it first though using Hippos guide.
It may turn out to be something else even less expensive

Freelaner said:

Test it first though using Hippos guide.
It may turn out to be something else even less expensive

Click to expand...

More reading suggests it could be the rear differential mounts or the bushes on the VCU

Sorry to sound dim, but where is hippos guide?

Thanks!

Look for any post by Hippo it's in his signature

LOGIKSTATE said:

More reading suggests it could be the rear differential mounts or the bushes on the VCU

Sorry to sound dim, but where is hippos guide?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Have a look at the 'How to' section at the top of the forum page, for the VCU bearings, and rear diff mounts.

Look among the stickies at the top of the thread list for 'VCU torque checking'

Both these are by Hippo - a mine of info.

+ there are links in his signature - these are often asked for.

Singvogel said:

Have a look at the 'How to' section at the top of the forum page, for the VCU bearings, and rear diff mounts.

Look among the stickies at the top of the thread list for 'VCU torque checking'

Both these are by Hippo - a mine of info.

+ there are links in his signature - these are often asked for.

Click to expand...

Thanks guys, armed with all of this info I will take it to a LR garage on Friday and see what they say. I don't like not knowing what could possibly be up, I'm thinking its probably the mounts or bushes from reading other forum posts... Lets hope its cheap enough!

op2:

Hippo said:

op2:

Click to expand...

Popcorns out already? uh oh!

FWIW, I'm taking it to these guys : 77-79 Avenue 5 Chesterfield S41 0SN - Google Maps

LOGIKSTATE said:

Popcorns out already? uh oh!

FWIW, I'm taking it to these guys : 77-79 Avenue 5 Chesterfield S41 0SN - Google Maps

Click to expand...

If you've got basic DIY tools, plus some torx sockets, and somewhere to work on the thing it's not difficult to carry out all the checks being suggested.

With the help on here I've gone from non owner to owner to replacing the propshafts and VCU in the last 4 weeks

My next job is the diff mounts.

Had we paid our local dealer to do what I will have done to the car we'd have been looking at a bill of between £120 and £200 quid, just for labour.

The other advantage of DIY is that you get to choose the supplier for the new bits, this can also save you a few quid

Apart from working on motorcycles (easy access, light bits, no hurry as they are toys) I'd not taken a spanner to a car to do anything more complex than change the oil and filter in over 15 years until the Freelander arrived.

on no not chesterfield i have to pass through there every 2 weeks I am so fed up with the roundabout as you turn right to go down to the next one on my way to mansfield wish they would get traffic lights on it and I used to work in Chesterfield twice a week in 1967-8

TRXnMe said:

If you've got basic DIY tools, plus some torx sockets, and somewhere to work on the thing it's not difficult to carry out all the checks being suggested.

With the help on here I've gone from non owner to owner to replacing the propshafts and VCU in the last 4 weeks

My next job is the diff mounts.

Had we paid our local dealer to do what I will have done to the car we'd have been looking at a bill of between £120 and £200 quid, just for labour.

The other advantage of DIY is that you get to choose the supplier for the new bits, this can also save you a few quid

Apart from working on motorcycles (easy access, light bits, no hurry as they are toys) I'd not taken a spanner to a car to do anything more complex than change the oil and filter in over 15 years until the Freelander arrived.

Click to expand...

In years gone by I would probably have had a go at this myself but as it stands I dont have a driveway to work on the car, never mind the equipment to safely jack it up and support it.

I took it to the garage today and they diagnosed it as the prop shaft bearings at a cost just shy of £200 all in. I don't see this as too expensive if it means that I don't have to crawl about on the floor and get cold and dirty...

Thanks for all the advice guys, it is very much appreciated... At least it wasn't something hidiously expensive!

LOGIKSTATE said:

In years gone by I would probably have had a go at this myself but as it stands I dont have a driveway to work on the car, never mind the equipment to safely jack it up and support it.

I took it to the garage today and they diagnosed it as the prop shaft bearings at a cost just shy of £200 all in. I don't see this as too expensive if it means that I don't have to crawl about on the floor and get cold and dirty...

Thanks for all the advice guys, it is very much appreciated... At least it wasn't something hidiously expensive!

Click to expand...

Getting dirty is half the fun

I'm not keen on the cold bit though, and cold & wet is right out

Best of luck with the garage.

LOGIKSTATE said:

In years gone by I would probably have had a go at this myself but as it stands I dont have a driveway to work on the car, never mind the equipment to safely jack it up and support it.

I took it to the garage today and they diagnosed it as the prop shaft bearings at a cost just shy of £200 all in. I don't see this as too expensive if it means that I don't have to crawl about on the floor and get cold and dirty...

Thanks for all the advice guys, it is very much appreciated... At least it wasn't something hidiously expensive!

Click to expand...

Well I think that £200 is a bit steep. I bought the bearings myself from Foundry4X4 for only £40.39 delivered the next day.

My local independant garage then fitted them and charged me for 2 hours labour.

I do this all the time - I get the bits - they fit them - it's always cheaper. I don't mind paying for some jobs as I get to keep the skin on my knuckles!

Singvogel.

Singvogel said:

Well I think that £200 is a bit steep. I bought the bearings myself from Foundry4X4 for only £40.39 delivered the next day.

My local independant garage then fitted them and charged me for 2 hours labour.

I do this all the time - I get the bits - they fit them - it's always cheaper. I don't mind paying for some jobs as I get to keep the skin on my knuckles!

Singvogel.

Click to expand...

That's not just true for work on cars, my best mate saved himself £5k when he had an extension built, by supplying the materials, the builders weren't too happy when asked for quotes splitting out the labour and the materials, took him a while to find one who would actually do it

The X-Parts garage I use for my Rover servicing includes details on the cost of spares on the invoice (I asked for this), they typically add 10% to 15% to what I could source them for, but as I'm not doing the phoning around I don't mind that too much, there also appears to be an upper limit of about £30 if the parts are horribly expensive.

Singvogel said:

Well I think that £200 is a bit steep. I bought the bearings myself from Foundry4X4 for only £40.39 delivered the next day.

My local independant garage then fitted them and charged me for 2 hours labour.

I do this all the time - I get the bits - they fit them - it's always cheaper. I don't mind paying for some jobs as I get to keep the skin on my knuckles!

Singvogel.

Click to expand...

Sure, I have done this in the past but this time the missus needs the car sorting asap and I really don't have the time to be messing around. I'm gonna have to let this one slide. I did look at the price of the parts and they are basically charging 160 quid labour... ho hum... at least I've found a local garage that actually knows what they are doing.

Thanks again for all the advice, it is very much appreciated!

Deep joy, the missus just tried to drive to the shops, apparantly heard a lot of grinding and dodgy noises and then parked up.

Just been to retrieve it and the engine will not rev past 2500 revs without the right hand engine light coming on.

As soon as I let off the power the light goes out, just drove it home, is this limp home mode or sumink? Feels like its severely lacking in power, but I've not heard any dodgy noises yet.

Trying to dig my code reader out to see if it wants to talk to me.

This is a '54 plate TD4

Any clues as to what on earth just happened?

Hmmmmm code reader is no use, not showing any pending or stored codes.

We had this problem a few months back where the right hand engine light was on with the engine not starting, called the AA guy out and it started first time and has done ever since... He seemed to think it could have been the fuel pump.

<scratches head>

It is in limp mode.
Try unplugging your MAF and see if it runs better.