L322 Golden Girl's wheel arch job

neilly · Oct 8, 2021

Very common on the L322,

Actually looks better than some other pictures I have seen.

On my list of things to do is pull off the covers and check mine.

Cheers

gold rover · Oct 8, 2021

Rubberknees said:
Ah but she's worth it

She certainly is. More money put into her than I put in the bank

Rubberknees · Oct 8, 2021

gold rover said:
She certainly is. More money put into her than I put in the bank View attachment 249921

Aren't all RR's

nevillen · Jan 20, 2023

Makes ours look clean as a whistle, but I guarantee there will be a whole world of pain lurking behind those pristine bits of plastic! Underneath is not as grim, but still a massive amont of work to put right correctly, shall be waiting for a weather improvement before going down the 'tin lizzie' route!

gold rover · Jan 20, 2023

nevillen said:
Makes ours look clean as a whistle, but I guarantee there will be a whole world of pain lurking behind those pristine bits of plastic! Underneath is not as grim, but still a massive amont of work to put right correctly, shall be waiting for a weather improvement before going down the 'tin lizzie' route!

Mine looked clean as a whistle until he took the inner arch and sills off

I had already done two preventative arch fix/resprays in the years I had her before this job.
Can't remember the name of the guy who did his around same time but he got a shock too.
The good news is she'll get under your skin and you will have a new love to spend your time and money on

Henry_b · Jan 20, 2023

the old D2

Same age P38 no rust at all..

funny really.

Datatek · Jan 21, 2023

Henry_b said:
the old D2

Same age P38 no rust at all..

funny really.

Looks like the underside of my Transit

Spridget · Jan 21, 2023

Been doing this sort of thing for so long and I wonder what is the most effective way to stop the rot from coming back, or better still coming in the first place.
Years ago Waxoil was said to be the way to go and I pumped loads of the stuff into a cavity (new inner and outer sills) of my Austin Healey Sprite. About 6 or 7 years later I was fitting new sills again so it obviously hadn't worked as well as I had hoped. Next came Dinitrol which was going to make my vehicles last forever but it certainly didn't have that effect on my BRAND NEW Maestro Diesel which did 250,000 miles without the slightest problem from the engine before the body fell to pieces.
Now I'm on Bilt Hamber and the Jury's still out but at least after treatment my P38 and my old Jag are still holding together .( Fingers crossed) reasonably well.
I'm hearing about the wonders of a new stuff made from sheep's wool Lanoguard. Anyone tried it?

nevillen · Jan 21, 2023

I have a friend who swears by, wait for it, expanding foam! So long as it doesn't come into contact with the exhaust he says it is far superior to the traditional alternatives and has the added bonus of being non condusive electrically and sound proofs as well.

Datatek · Jan 21, 2023

Spridget said:
Been doing this sort of thing for so long and I wonder what is the most effective way to stop the rot from coming back, or better still coming in the first place.
Years ago Waxoil was said to be the way to go and I pumped loads of the stuff into a cavity (new inner and outer sills) of my Austin Healey Sprite. About 6 or 7 years later I was fitting new sills again so it obviously hadn't worked as well as I had hoped. Next came Dinitrol which was going to make my vehicles last forever but it certainly didn't have that effect on my BRAND NEW Maestro Diesel which did 250,000 miles without the slightest problem from the engine before the body fell to pieces.
Now I'm on Bilt Hamber and the Jury's still out but at least after treatment my P38 and my old Jag are still holding together .( Fingers crossed) reasonably well.
I'm hearing about the wonders of a new stuff made from sheep's wool Lanoguard. Anyone tried it?

My Toyota MR2, a notorious rust bucket, was rustproofed when 2 years old at a friends Honda dealership. I don't know what was used but it stank and dripped out in hot weather for months afterwards. thirty seven years later. Apart from a bit of surface rust on subframes that I treat when seen, it is still rust free -)

Datatek · Jan 21, 2023

nevillen said:
I have a friend who swears by, wait for it, expanding foam! So long as it doesn't come into contact with the exhaust he says it is far superior to the traditional alternatives and has the added bonus of being non condusive electrically and sound proofs as well.

I quite like that idea, it's waterproof and sticks like the proverbial brown stuff to a blanket, might try it on the Transit wings.

Rubberknees · Jan 21, 2023

Henry_b said:
the old D2

Same age P38 no rust at all..

funny really.

Reminds me of my old 300tdi Disco

backinblack · Jan 21, 2023

Rubberknees said:
Reminds me of my old 300tdi Disco

And mine

Henry_b · Jan 21, 2023

Datatek said:
Looks like the underside of my Transit

I recall someone telling me one of the things the transit does best is rust

Datatek · Jan 21, 2023

Henry_b said:
I recall someone telling me one of the things the transit does best is rust

The Transit is a world leader in rust.

Scotiawhiskers · Jan 21, 2023

Spridget said:
Been doing this sort of thing for so long and I wonder what is the most effective way to stop the rot from coming back, or better still coming in the first place.
Years ago Waxoil was said to be the way to go and I pumped loads of the stuff into a cavity (new inner and outer sills) of my Austin Healey Sprite. About 6 or 7 years later I was fitting new sills again so it obviously hadn't worked as well as I had hoped. Next came Dinitrol which was going to make my vehicles last forever but it certainly didn't have that effect on my BRAND NEW Maestro Diesel which did 250,000 miles without the slightest problem from the engine before the body fell to pieces.
Now I'm on Bilt Hamber and the Jury's still out but at least after treatment my P38 and my old Jag are still holding together .( Fingers crossed) reasonably well.
I'm hearing about the wonders of a new stuff made from sheep's wool Lanoguard. Anyone tried it?

We're using lanoguard, certainly easy to apply but too soon to tell how effective it is long term.
I did rub some over rusty bits of chrome on the little bike and they have actually improved with time so it looks promising. Only light surface spotting, not heavy rust.
At least it can be applied in cold weather as long as the sprayer is warmed a bit, unlike hammerite or some coatings that just congeal without sticking.
Also gives a nice agricultural whiff for a short while. Suits the p38.

Datatek · Jan 22, 2023

Scotiawhiskers said:
We're using lanoguard, certainly easy to apply but too soon to tell how effective it is long term.
I did rub some over rusty bits of chrome on the little bike and they have actually improved with time so it looks promising. Only light surface spotting, not heavy rust.
At least it can be applied in cold weather as long as the sprayer is warmed a bit, unlike hammerite or some coatings that just congeal without sticking.
Also gives a nice agricultural whiff for a short while. Suits the p38.

I still use Waxoil but heat it up until it bubbles before putting it in the sprayer, It is then so thin it seems to creep in everywhere.

L322 Golden Girl's wheel arch job

neilly

Well-Known Member

gold rover

Well-Known Member

Rubberknees

Well-Known Member

nevillen

Well-Known Member

gold rover

Well-Known Member

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

Datatek

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Spridget

Member

nevillen

Well-Known Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Rubberknees

Well-Known Member

backinblack

Well-Known Member

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Scotiawhiskers

Well-Known Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

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