GEARBOX woes

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griff2 said:
all in now ,now to rebuild and test hope its water tight else i will be ****ed off if i have to take apart again lol

i had to use the old straight pipe,with new seals as when i put them side by side the new pipe was def around 1.5 cm longer than the old one!
Click to expand...

Using the old straight pipe won't hurt, providing it's not gone brittle with age. Often the old seals work fine too. The block seals are the ones that fail in time. This is because silicone grease wasn't used in the factory or in subsequent thermostat changes.
 
well i must say this car is really not wanting to be fixed :censored::censored::censored:

rebuilt it to find its now leaking from the back fuel rail ahhhhhh ,took pullem back off so i cant have a look and its leaking from the injector next to the alternater i cant seem to get the rail to connect correctly over the o ring !!!!!

i was getting mad (had a big hammer in my hands lol)

so ive packed away and left it for today
 
griff2 said:
well i must say this car is really not wanting to be fixed :censored::censored::censored:

rebuilt it to find its now leaking from the back fuel rail ahhhhhh ,took pullem back off so i cant have a look and its leaking from the injector next to the alternater i cant seem to get the rail to connect correctly over the o ring !!!!!

i was getting mad (had a big hammer in my hands lol)

so ive packed away and left it for today
Click to expand...

Is the O ring seal there? If so, apply some engine oil to all the O rings and the injector stubs when assembling. This should help them engage correctly.
 
right yet another day thats making me wish i had not started this car lol im sure its trying to say dont fix me :censored::censored::censored:

right the fuel leak !!!!!
what a #### !!!!! i had to undo the clip to i could retrive a o ring

put back together and still leaking but in a major way !!!!
a bung /cap had fallen out of the fuel rail and into somewhere around the engine :mad::mad::mad:
luckly i found it after searching for a hr :):):) will refit tomorrow

BUT WHILSE LOOKING FOR THE BUNG I FOUND SOMETHING I DID NOT WANT TO :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: FOUND WHY THE IRD WAS LOW ON OIL!!!!

where the drive shaft goes into the ird there was what looked like thick mud around the area of the oil seal
it was looking damp and after further looking it was oil so i pulled a bit off to my hor :eek::eek:

as you can see from below video


someone in past has def john wayned this car in the past

so next thing is
1, what will of coursed this?
2, why was is coursed?

3, if it fixable ?
4, it looks like is cracked on a side cover ,is this so? can you get side plate?

this car is def testing me
 
griff2 said:
right yet another day thats making me wish i had not started this car lol im sure its trying to say dont fix me :censored::censored::censored:

right the fuel leak !!!!!
what a #### !!!!! i had to undo the clip to i could retrive a o ring

put back together and still leaking but in a major way !!!!
a bung /cap had fallen out of the fuel rail and into somewhere around the engine :mad::mad::mad:
luckly i found it after searching for a hr :):):) will refit tomorrow

BUT WHILSE LOOKING FOR THE BUNG I FOUND SOMETHING I DID NOT WANT TO :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: FOUND WHY THE IRD WAS LOW ON OIL!!!!

where the drive shaft goes into the ird there was what looked like thick mud around the area of the oil seal
it was looking damp and after further looking it was oil so i pulled a bit off to my hor :eek::eek:

as you can see from below video


someone in past has def john wayned this car in the past

so next thing is
1, what will of coursed this?
2, why was is coursed?

3, if it fixable ?
4, it looks like is cracked on a side cover ,is this so? can you get side plate?

this car is def testing me
Click to expand...

The IRD end plate might be available from someone with a damaged IRD. I've only seen that once before. This was on a V6 that someone had done the timing belts, taking the weight of the engine by jacking under the drive shaft. The weight of the V6 is more than enough to crack the IRD end plate. It's not the end of the world, but it's another job and a new bearing / seal too. Didn't you find a broken lower tie bar bolt? I would say that the two are connected.
This poor Freelander has had a rite muppet working on it.
 
Last edited:
is the end plate on a ird from a v6 the same as one from either a 1,8 or a td4?

is there a thread anywhere for ird removal? and do i need to drop gearbox as well?

or can i just take drive shaft out,unbolt end plate and refit ?
 
griff2 said:
is the end plate on a ird from a v6 the same as one from either a 1,8 or a td4?

is there a thread anywhere for ird removal? and do i need to drop gearbox as well?

or can i just take drive shaft out,unbolt end plate and refit ?
Click to expand...

I believe all IRD end plates are the same across all models. There is no need to remove the IRD to change the end plate. The drive shaft rewires removing as does the IRD support bracket. Then it's just a case of unbolt the bolts holding the end plate on.
It's not a difficult job, just another one to add to your list.
 
cool ,thanks for reply
i will have to try and find a local scap yard around here either holland or germany but will be hard im sure as i only speak english

i dont mind finding all these bits ,its just a pain that someone in past has broke bits and instead of repairing them has just cowboyed the problem

oh well looks like i will be getting dirty again lol
 
been all over today looking for a ird end plate ,but no joy yet

but i did get the engine back toghter and sorted the fuel leak car engine now works sweet
 
ya i agree only prob is theres not many freelanders around here ,and even less in the scrap yards ,well i say that but to be honest its hard to find a scrap yard over here,and the few ive found you cant walk around to look
 
well started a good day but finished pooooooo

Bells eng got back to me and can do the ird part and bearing sent to germany for a fair price so well happy with that :):):) seems a real nice bloke from the email he sent .

BUT THEN I TOOK HER FOR HER RETEST after she had failed last time on the idle on emissions

this time the emissions was a total fail and i mean total!!!:mad::eek::censored:
not sure if ive do something wrong when i put it all back together after the thermosate but here is the print out :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:


as you can hopefully see it failed so so so bad

my odb2 thing will not work with this car which again seems like another kick in the bollocks as it works with all other cars ive tried it with ,that and torque

its a

anyway the nice man at the mot put his on it and came up with this

which i think is saying lamba sensor bank 1 ?????????
if that mines its a lamba where is bank 1 ? as im sure from when ive been under the car theres about 3 or 4 things that look like lamba

and if a lamba is down would that course such high readings???


i must say to be honest this car is def trying my patiences :censored::censored::censored:
 
Looks like an O2 sensor to me. Bank 1 is the rear manifold O2 sensor from memory. Make sure the wiring is sound.
In reference to your ELM not connecting. Try squeezing the contracts in the socket. There was a fault where some sockets contacts were to wide. This stopped some readers from working.
 
will go have a look at the wiring now, if i remember the mot guy did say the wire for that lama was rubbing on the steering rack ,may be thats the prob ,as for the odb2 reader do you mean the connectors on that or the car
 
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