GEARBOX woes

Nodge68 said:

Giff has Torque on his smart phone. This can be used to check out live data. Sadly he doesn't know how to use it for this advanced function.

Click to expand...

We need someone with the same kit to help then. I have live data of my v6 with me hawkeye for comparison. Tick over cold/warm, 2500 revs and 60mph. Just need help with his kit. Anything on you tube?

Right i have no idea what the below info means but here goes,ALL TAKEN FROM TORUE (but will not save so i can just screen shot it )

engine coolant 84
engine load 27,45 %
engine rpm 2753 rpm

fuel trim bank 1 long term 100%
fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 27,34%


fuel trim bank 2 long term 100%
fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 100.78%

intake air temp 50c

02 volts bank 1 sensor 1 0.83v
02 volts bank 1 sensor 2 0.86v

02 volts bank 2sensor 1 0.0v


but then phone died lol ,does any of the above mean anything to any one?
many be 02 sensor 2 not working?
also theres a big dif between fuel trim bank 1 and 2

Looks like the O2 sensor in bank 2 isn't working correctly. A 100% fuel trim is very high. Most likely because the ECU can't read the O2 data. This would cause lean mixture misfiring
So with luck, a new O2 should cure it.

cool fingers crossed,is that the one one the underneath of the back row of cylinders on the manifold?

will a universal 02 sensor fit or does it have to be from landrover?

Ideally you need to run the test again.
However do it at idle and close to 95°C.
You need to log bank 1 long term and short term fuel trims. Do the same for bank 2, so long and short fuel trim. This will give you a more stable and reliable reading. Oh and have plenty of charge in your phone
However it is looking like the O2 is at fault.

griff2 said:

cool fingers crossed,is that the one one the underneath of the back row of cylinders on the manifold?

will a universal 02 sensor fit or does it have to be from landrover?

Click to expand...

Was the rear O2 the one that was unplugged? If so, that's the one. A universal 02 will work provided it plugs in and the connections are correct.

no i think it was number 1 that was unplugged ,but i will double check,im off on wed so will do more tests with a charged phone

griff2 said:

Right i have no idea what the below info means but here goes,ALL TAKEN FROM TORUE (but will not save so i can just screen shot it )

engine coolant 84 104.4 degrees C
engine load 27,45 %
engine torque = 36.72% at 60mph in 5th gear with engine warm according to the auto gear box computer
engine rpm 2753 rpm 2500 approx. (uk mot engine emission revs test)

fuel trim bank 1 long term 100%
fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 27,34%

short trim B1 = -0.39% to 6% varying
average trim B1 = 3.5% approx.
multi trim B1 = -2%

fuel trim bank 2 long term 100%
fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 100.78%

short trim B2 = 1% to 7% varying
average trim B2 = 4.85% to 5.39% varying
multi trim B2 = -2.44%

average trim B1/B2 = 4.2% approx

intake air temp 50c 40.1 degrees C

02 volts bank 1 sensor 1 0.83v
02 volts bank 1 sensor 2 0.86v

02 volts bank 2sensor 1 0.0v

US upstream O2 sensor B1 = 0.2v to 0.825v varying
US upstream O2 sensor B2 = 0.2v to 0.825v varying

DS downstream O2 sensor = 0.64v approx


but then phone died lol ,does any of the above mean anything to any one?
many be 02 sensor 2 not working?
also theres a big dif between fuel trim bank 1 and 2

Click to expand...

Results from me hawkeye with v7 software from my v6 running at 2500 revs approx when the engine is warm and stationary (auto in park) in blue above. I assume yours was stationary at 2750 revs approx when taking the above values or was it driving?

Some of the descriptions don't match so ere's the complete engine live data video's for reference:

Freelander 1 v6 HawkEye v7 Diagnostic. Engine Computer Live Data. Stationary at 2500 Revs And Warm

Freelander 1 v6 HawkEye v7 Diagnostic. Engine Computer Live Data. Engine On Tick Over and Warm

Freelander 1 v6 HawkEye v7 Diagnostic. Engine Computer Live Data. Engine Off and Warm

Freelander 1 v6 HawkEye v7 Diagnostic. Engine Computer Live Data. Engine Off and Cold

right charged the phone and had her to temp (infact went very high !!! up to 105 c which im sure is to high wounder if i have a air lock somewhere from reflilling coolant ,still need to find the engine bleed screw )

any way
fuel trim bank 1 long term 0.78
fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 0%
2 0%

fuel trim bank 1 short 30.47


fuel trim bank 2 long term 1.56 %
short term 0.78
sensor 1 0%



intake air temp 53c
intake manifold pressure 47 kpa

02 volts bank 1 sensor 1 0.16v flicked between this and 0.82v
2 0.81v never moved from there

bank 2 sensor 1 0.01 flicked between this and 0.82v


does this mean anything ????

02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 ,should that stay like that????

griff2 said:

right charged the phone and had her to temp (infact went very high !!! up to 105 c which im sure is to high wounder if i have a air lock somewhere from reflilling coolant ,still need to find the engine bleed screw )

any way
fuel trim bank 1 long term 0.78
fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 0%
2 0%

fuel trim bank 1 short 30.47


fuel trim bank 2 long term 1.56 %
short term 0.78
sensor 1 0%



intake air temp 53c
intake manifold pressure 47 kpa

02 volts bank 1 sensor 1 0.16v flicked between this and 0.82v
2 0.81v never moved from there

bank 2 sensor 1 0.01 flicked between this and 0.82v


does this mean anything ????

02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 ,should that stay like that????

Click to expand...

Are you saying sensor 2 bank 1 is staying at 0.81v? (Rich, low Oxygen mixture) If so, I would suggest that the sensor behind the cat is OK. However if it still reads 0.81v from cold, it has either failed or has had a de-cat mod done on the wiring. What ever is happening to the post-cat O2 sensor is irrelevant, as it's not used for mixture control. Its job is to monitor cat function, nothing more.

A working O2 sensor should flick between low and high. That is the actual sensor monitoring the exhaust gases O2 content, and the engine ECU making slight mixture adjustments to maintain the mixture in a tightly controlled window.

bank 1 sensor 2 was 0.81v and never flickered from that over the time car was run

griff2 said:

bank 1 sensor 2 was 0.81v and never flickered from that over the time car was run

Click to expand...

This is the correct voltage for the post-cat O2 sensor. It's telling you that the cats are working correctly.
If the other O2 voltages are as shown earlier, the O2 sensors are OK.

in that case then im really running out of ideas fast

was really hoping it was that

but now what to check ????

think im going to see if i can find some bits and pieces ,and make some kind of smoke machine ,some how fit it to a blower ,fit to a breather pipe and pump it into the engine

see if any escapes ,that way i would be 1000000% sure i have no air leaks any where ,i cant think of anything else to try ,can you?

Can you list down all the engine info in the torque thing so we can compare values to my v6 hawkeye data?

When you say air leak are you talking about eggsource emissions? If so do you get joint leaks when trying to cover the eggsource pipes?

no was thinking maybe a air leak in the engine system ie gasket etc, im 99% sure i dont have a leak ,but i want to make 100000% sure so i can def rule out to much air getting in the system which in turn would course the ecu to throw in more fuel which i assume would course the engine misfire

i will have another go with the torque app this afternoon and right down the results

i have put my hands over the exhaust pipes and do not seem to get any leaks

Ok so let's look at this logically.
You have replaced the plugs. Check
Tested the coils and leads. All appear good.
Checked the compression. All 175 Psi give or take.
Checked fuel pressure. At over 65 Psi.
Checked O2 sensors for correct output. All appear good.
Still getting a multi misfiring code. There's little else to check except for air leaks. Are all the breather pipes sound? They can crack giving unmeasured air to the engine. Spray some WD40 around the pipe joints. The engine should falter slightly if the oil gets in through a leak.

Nodge68 said:

Ok so let's look at this logically.
You have replaced the plugs. Check
Tested the coils and leads. All appear good.
Checked the compression. All 175 Psi give or take.
Checked fuel pressure. At over 65 Psi.
Checked O2 sensors for correct output. All appear good.
Still getting a multi misfiring code. There's little else to check except for air leaks. Are all the breather pipes sound? They can crack giving unmeasured air to the engine. Spray some WD40 around the pipe joints. The engine should falter slightly if the oil gets in through a leak.

Click to expand...

Mmm. There is one possibility left..

Whatever is driving the coils....

That is there might be a common earth on the bank of coils that's corroded, or a bad connector connecting it to the ECU, or a bad ECU...???

well i assume if my smoke machine works ,if i undo a breather pipe and connect it to the pipe ,pump smoke in if it works smoke should come out of any leaks????

version 1


(video below just click)


yep works lol ,think i may have to make another one using metal some how lol

``right where to begin

first off i thought i would have a look at this engine coolant drain plug i had never heard of , seeing i had dropped the coolant the other week but never used this plug i thought i better have a look

anyway very strange as when i took plug out coolant flooded out BUT it was green coolant !!! and the new stuff i put in is bright orange (and the coolant in the filler tank is still orange)

so i assume there must of been a air lock and the green coolant must of been some of the old stuff? anyway i think because of this a complete coolant change will be needed again just to be sure

next was to try my smoke jar thing i made to see if i can find any air leaks
the below vid shows the results


so think a new pipe is needed ,and maybe a new red clip thing it goes into????,as you can see ,the other day i got rid of the nice tidy sealant and just coated everywhere that i had plastic welded with a thick layer ,you will not see it once cover back on

any way then i started to play with the next thing in below vid,not sure what its called



but as you can hear towards the end theres def some bubbling/sucking noise ,i traced that back to another pipe ,the one i think is for the break servo that fits in the pullem right next to the vis

after seeing the vids do you think its prob these ?

also on second vid where i ask should it not still cut out when hole covered ???? as mine does not so does that mean maybe a leak in that pipe too?

cheers
griff