Series 3 FWH's don't engage, can I use 4wd to at least lubricate the front end?

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bultacobob

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Hi, I have found that my FWH's don't appear to make any difference, so for the moment it is permanently stuck in 2WD. So 2 choices, strip and find the problem or convert them back to standard. However tinker time is very limited at the moment, but I worry that the swivel pins etc, which have probably not seen a splash of oil for some time as this is a recent purchase and the old gal was pretty abused. So I had a thought and would like some advise. Can any one foresee a problem with putting it into 4WD. This will at least turn the diff and shafts and hopefully throw up some oil. Obviously it won't turn the front wheels.
I thought this might be a quick fix ( or long term solution) until I can investigate further. Appreciate any opinions or advise.
 
Are you sure the FWH are not working, they are pretty robust, what did you do to test them? Your idea is interesting, I've never used four wheel drive on my landy and I worry that when I do need it, something will be seized. I hadn't thought of disengaging the FWH and then engaging four wheel drive.

Col
 
You can put it in 4wd, nothing will happen. It only needs one of the free wheel hubs not to work for there to be no drive at the front.
To check for sure jack each front wheel in turn while in 4wd with fwh engaged. It should only be possible to turn the wheel a bit, they will not spin by hand if system is working.
 
Colthebrummie said:
Are you sure the FWH are not working, they are pretty robust, what did you do to test them? Your idea is interesting, I've never used four wheel drive on my landy and I worry that when I do need it, something will be seized. I hadn't thought of disengaging the FWH and then engaging four wheel drive.

Col
Click to expand...
same here. i'm concerned :(
 
From a lubrication point, if you engage 4wd it will turn half shafts and everything else up to the point of the free wheeling hubs so it should provide some splash lubrication. I asked this question some time ago and the only negative comment was that if the front diff or one drive shaft is stiff only the other shaft will turn. It was James Martin that gave this advice so I reverted back to engaging the front hubs as a method of lubricating the swivels.
You could try it though as temporary measure, but strip and fix would be the best option no doubt if its had a hard life you'll find more issues, just part of the joy of ownership.
 
The biggest problem you will have is getting the screws to come out of the hub.
Mine are Allen key heads and they immediately rounded out. I ended up hammering a star key into them :oops:
 
The FWH's are AMV, and the screws have no intention in coming out without a fight. I am tempted just to drill them out, but will try a star bit first. I just fitted new wheels and tried out the FWH's which is how I found nothing was happening. Someone did say they seem to fail in the 2x4 position which make sense if this is where they mainly stay. Hoping it is old grease and not broken drive shafts.
The joy of old land Rovers is keeping up the maintenance, but after 6 months of sorting out bad welding and a poorly installed 200tdi I have run out of steam. Plus I have an Opel GT which is laying neglected. In truth going back to standard is a good option, but having FWH's has got me out of tricky situations in the past so I will attempt at some time a repair.
The manual for the FWH's does recommend engaging the once a month which is good practice.
 
bultacobob said:
The FWH's are AMV, and the screws have no intention in coming out without a fight. I am tempted just to drill them out, but will try a star bit first. I just fitted new wheels and tried out the FWH's which is how I found nothing was happening. Someone did say they seem to fail in the 2x4 position which make sense if this is where they mainly stay. Hoping it is old grease and not broken drive shafts.
The joy of old land Rovers is keeping up the maintenance, but after 6 months of sorting out bad welding and a poorly installed 200tdi I have run out of steam. Plus I have an Opel GT which is laying neglected. In truth going back to standard is a good option, but having FWH's has got me out of tricky situations in the past so I will attempt at some time a repair.
The manual for the FWH's does recommend engaging the once a month which is good practice.
Click to expand...
I engage and disengage my FWHs every time I fill up, so one tankful 4x4 and the next tankful 2x4

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
I engage and disengage my FWHs every time I fill up, so one tankful 4x4 and the next tankful 2x4

Col
Click to expand...
i guess i'll have to start doing this. i've never turned them in the two years i've had it. stupidly went low range too. no damage somehow though, all going smooth.

i might just leave them disengaged and use the yellow knob on occassion. it's pretty much soley in 2x4
 
I can see how a set of FWH can get you into tricky situations but I'm struggling to see how they can get you out of tricky situations. I would just get rid of them, mine were just trouble, they are the equivalent of the engine auto stop start you get on modern cars, they save you a tiny amount of fuel and store up longer term problems.

Running without FWH will use fractions of a horsepower more but will keep everything well lubricated and drive out condensation from the axle, more importantly it stops you prematurely wearing out the bush in the transfer box on the shaft to the front prop.
 
Great idea turning them at each fill up. I have had on occasion, one front drive shaft brake up and on another the diff collapse. Simply switching back to 2x4 and FWH's meant a drive home and not recovery. I could also still use the Landy whilst waiting for parts ( guilty off waiting many many months). Personally I would not rush out and get a set but equally I would not be too quick to throw a set away. As the old saying goes "better to have it and not need it , than need it and not have it. I think lubrication of vital parts is the issue keep in mind.
 
If you engage 4wd without the free wheel hubs engaged there is a possibility that the drive parts in the hub will catch.
 
I see your point but at the moment they are in 2wd and nothing is happening also the same when in 4wd. So there is nothing to catch which is the problem. That said a slow drive back and forth would be prudent.
 
A further look at the retaining screws show a number of tiny and very rusty sorry looking screws. For £19 I can put it back to standard and take my time to see if the units can be serviced. I envisage having to drill out most of the screws so it might be the deciding factor.
I have never found so many rusty bolts on a Land Rover, I had to snap every single one to extract the radiator, and the two lower door panels took longer to remove that to cut, weld and replace the outrigger. But there is something about a Land Rover that makes you keep loving it!
 
I found my FWH were not engaging becuse they had been packed with grease, cleaned them out and they work fine. Currently runing with them engaged as i find the swivels leak less (??). Often manouver in low range with the hubs free and its never caused a problem.
 
Thanks for the info, in theory I could not see a problem of using them in low and 4x4 for a short while to get the swivels lubed. The fact it has been fine for you bears that out. It often seems to be that the grease causes the problem. As these are the Heavy duty ones and the cheap parts turned out to cost double what I thought I will try to service them.
 
As I just posted in the other thread thinking it was this one, be aware that the rebuild kits are dicontinued for the earlier AVM hubs.

I removed mine as they were leaking oil and there are no replacement seals available.
 
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