FWH stuck

My 1981 88 is fitted with selectro FWH but they wont engage and I am
struggling to get the FWH off. In the lock position I can hear a click click click noise but the prop doesnt move. Turn it to "free" and they are as smooth as silk
If I unbolt the hubs they wont come off, but move them round a couple of degrees and they engage...unfortunately the bolt holes now dont line up...
How do I get them off? undone the 6 bolts and a small gap opens up but then they stick ...am I missing anything? More force?..should they be set at Free or lock when i take them off?
Or any other suggestions

haha you need to take them apart and undo the nut inside which is on the end of the driveshaft!!

usually the fwh is held by 5 or 6 small allen headed bolts but depends which make ect

cant you remove end cap and undo halfshaft nut

should i say the fwh outter is held by small bollts

bugger I was afraid of that...one allen bolt looks like its seen better days... Back to the shed....

That's it fixed. It had been put on wrongly by the previous owner. The internal cog didnt line up with the splined collar and the collar didn't line up with splines on the shaft... guess I'll be there again, gaskets in tatters. Do you still get spares for them?

if its just a gasket use some rtv silicone sealant

Main prob is 1 of the 3 internal "fingers" that push and engage the cog onto the shaft is broken. It's just a plate on a spiral, nodoubt a wee while in the shed with a flattened bean can would see it done but easier with the pukka bit of the shelf
I did give it a squirt of gasket goo, to keep the slugs out
cheers for the help guys, It's been great getting back into the world of landies after all these years..now for the ignition switch and the door hinges...if only I'd ordered the right ones...sigh

I know this is an old thread, but did you get the Hub sorted ? Same problem with mine, one of the springy tangs gone.

Shedload said:

I know this is an old thread, but did you get the Hub sorted ? Same problem with mine, one of the springy tangs gone.

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Same here!
Struggling to find Selectro spare parts.
May have to go and get a pair of other make and put the good working one (plus broken other one) I have on fleabay!

I was considering just removing and returning to standard but could really do without the extra workload.
Will keep on looking, fingers crossed.

Shedload said:

I was considering just removing and returning to standard but could really do without the extra workload.
Will keep on looking, fingers crossed.

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Replacing with standard drive members is probably less work than fixing the freewheels. If you pre-order the drive members, gaskets, and bolts, probably about an hour to change both sides.
If you splash out, and order the drive members for the rears as well, you will probably notice less backlash in the transmission too, worn drive members have quite a noticeable effect.

An hour for both sides ? I think you overestimate by abilities
If I could replace just the broken part that would be easy enough. Of course who knows what next ...

Shedload said:

An hour for both sides ? I think you overestimate by abilities
If I could replace just the broken part that would be easy enough. Of course who knows what next ...

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I don't think I am overestimating your abilities.
You don't need to jack the vehicle up. You don't even need to crawl underneath.
All you need to do is undo 17 bolts, it might even be 13 bolts, can't remember, remove a split pin pull of the FWH, insert the new drive member, put a nut and split pin on, and do up the bolts again.
If you have a socket the right size, a ratchet, and pliers to remove the split pin, you really can't go wrong.

Shedload said:

An hour for both sides ? I think you overestimate by abilities
If I could replace just the broken part that would be easy enough. Of course who knows what next ...

Click to expand...

I forgot the hub caps. But you just bash them off with a hammer, and replace by the same means.

Can I ask, once I remove split pin do I undo castle nut or use that to pull drive member and should the FWH all come off together ?

Shedload said:

Can I ask, once I remove split pin do I undo castle nut or use that to pull drive member and should the FWH all come off together ?

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The castellated nut isn't attached to the drive member, it just stops end play in the drive shaft.
And because it is castellated, and held with a split pin, it won't be tight, I can usually undo them with my fingers.
Once you have removed the nut, and the bolts around the drive member, the member will come away, you may need to tap it with the hammer to break the gasket.

Thanks, as you say I will try and accumulate all the parts before I start, then dive in.

Shedload said:

Thanks, as you say I will try and accumulate all the parts before I start, then dive in.

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Doubt if you will regret it.
I haven't fitted any freewheel hubs for about 40 years, but I have removed several sets.