fuel burner

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frontosa

Active Member
Posts
123
Hi the weather is getting warmer way above freezing and my fuel burner is still running. i have no workshop manual so dose any one no what number fuse it runs on im thinking of removing fuse to see if this will help with comsumption as i am only getting approx 28mpg on a td4 auto at a constant 65mph. Thanks.
 
when I took out the number 5 fuse i got three amigo's on so I just unpluged it and the problem with your's is the stat on it same as mine but I can not be bothered
 
The FBH has a few known faults, usually resistors on the main board, a cheap fix if you google "French Mike" ;)

It only uses around 0.1 litres an hour, or every 30 minutes, so that's not your fuel consumption problem. Bad fuel economy is more likely due to problems like the EGR being bunged up, losing turbo pressure through O rings or knackered rubber pipework, clogged air filter, clogged PCV filter, tyre pressures etc...
 
The FBH has a few known faults, usually resistors on the main board, a cheap fix if you google "French Mike" ;)

It only uses around 0.1 litres an hour, or every 30 minutes, so that's not your fuel consumption problem. Bad fuel economy is more likely due to problems like the EGR being bunged up, losing turbo pressure through O rings or knackered rubber pipework, clogged air filter, clogged PCV filter, tyre pressures etc...

i have cleaned out the EGR & blanked it off. all rubber pipes look good and are tight. all filters replaced. dont know about orings? using synergy2 plus in eco mode.
 
the plug on the fbh is behind the bumper a small set of wires come off the fbh unplug it there just undo the inner wheel arch protector at the bottom and you should see also renew your crankcase filter this will help with consumption it hope this helps
 
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Don't suppose you have a pic of the wires that need to be pulled out so the FBH? I would like mine to stop running all the time!
 
the plug on the fbh is behind the bumper a small set of wires come off the fbh unplug it there just undo the inner wheel arch protector at the bottom and you should see also renew your crankcase filter this will help with consumption it hope this helps
thanks for that info. have replaced the the crankcase filter when all others were replaced. sadly the consumption is still bad.
 
You want it ti work in winter, it heats the engine up quickly to get it to the most economic working temperature.

Get someone else to rev the engine to around 2,500 rpm, then try and squash the turbo hoses, the theory is that they should be solid at those revs, if they are squishy they you're losing pressure somewhere and that will cost you performance and economy.

Out of interest, if you lift off the throttle, how quickly does the car slow down?

Also, have you checked your tyre pressures? Lots of folk under estimate how many mpg low tyre pressure can cost them.
 
i have cleaned out the EGR & blanked it off. all rubber pipes look good and are tight. all filters replaced. dont know about orings? using synergy2 plus in eco mode.


Unless I'm mistaken (I often am) you'll find that we don't have 'O' rings on the TD4 version of the M47R.

As far as I know they are only found in joints on the turbo pipes on the Rover 75 and the MG ZT engines which are the same engine in almost all other respects.

Singvogel. ;) :p
 
sorry I can not post photos it will not let me but if you do as I said undo the inner wheel arch cover you will see the fbh and the plug is at the bottom simples
 
Unless I'm mistaken (I often am) you'll find that we don't have 'O' rings on the TD4 version of the M47R.

As far as I know they are only found in joints on the turbo pipes on the Rover 75 and the MG ZT engines which are the same engine in almost all other respects.

Singvogel. ;) :p


Bugger, I wondered why I couldn't find them in the Haynes :eek:

Turbo pipework check, intercooler check, turbo check, I just assumed that Haynes had done the usual thorough job :eek:

There is a theory that the Freelander has a later (stronger) bottom end, so will take more abuse than the R75 / ZT, but I can't find the thread I came across the theory in to repost the actual designations....
 
You want it ti work in winter, it heats the engine up quickly to get it to the most economic working temperature.

Get someone else to rev the engine to around 2,500 rpm, then try and squash the turbo hoses, the theory is that they should be solid at those revs, if they are squishy they you're losing pressure somewhere and that will cost you performance and economy.

Out of interest, if you lift off the throttle, how quickly does the car slow down?

Also, have you checked your tyre pressures? Lots of folk under estimate how many mpg low tyre pressure can cost them.
he cars a auto when i take off throttle it slows down normal as far as i know
 
OK, I was wondering if you had some sort of 'drag' in the system, but if you are sure it's not slowing down too quick, I'm barking up another empty tree :(

Last straw to grasp at, is your MAF in good nick, is your synergy set to the right eco map for the state of your MAF? I'm not up on the synergy 2, but the synergy 1 had 3 MAF settings and 3 maps which combined to give 9 options (option 10 was full power with good MAF). As my MAF hass deterioated I've had to change settings on my synergy 1 to maintain torque and economy.....

If that's not it, I've no more ideas on why you're only getting 28 mpg at 65, should be mid 30s to low 40s...
 
There is a theory that the Freelander has a later (stronger) bottom end, so will take more abuse than the R75 / ZT, but I can't find the thread I came across the theory in to repost the actual designations....

Yes - I've heard this rumour / theory too - but I can't find any reference to it in the BMW archives or even wikipedia.

Can anyone else throw a little light on this one?

S.
 
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