Freelander won't start everything working just nothing when go to crank .. Nowt

No not yet as had gone dark but will check them and check for power to starter in morning thou..

The best of british mate in the morning let's hope its a quick fix

richie1969 said:

What's best way to check starter as it won't start of a bump either, so you think solenoid is at fault on starter.

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If it won't bump, it's unlikely the starter motor is bad .

Bump or jump?

ryan168 said:

Bump or jump?

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Bump [push or roll in gear with the clutch down in 2nd then lift clutch] ;-)

With ignition on? my bad!

Won't bump with ignition on down hill in second gear which makes me think it's a earth problem but will check thin wire tomorrow just incase it's a poor connection. But any other advice or suggestions would be very welcome thou.... Thanks guys...

the thin wire is the starter wire from the ignition switch.
if it won't bump (with the ignition on) it won't be this that is the problem.


which brings me back to your original comment about the immobiliser.

or it could well be just a bad earth

Thought you meant jump start mate my mistake not a starter motor problem then!I need to go back to school to brush up on the old reading skills I think lads!!!

it could also be the ignition switch this happened to my wife's 98 1800 freelander just make sure it is out of gear and switch the ignition on and then feed the starter with a wire from the positive side of the battery if it starts then it is the switch. hope this helps

Don't think our Freelanders like bump starting....Manual says not to do it! Don't know why though??

Dougden said:

Don't think our Freelanders like bump starting....Manual says not to do it! Don't know why though??

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apparently any car fitted with a catalytic convertor shouldn't be bumped as it blocks it

Call the Rac out is best bet buddy lol

I’ve had/got a similar problem with my facelift 06TD4. When I left home in the morning, the car started fine. Stopped to go into a shop, came out and when I tried to start, absolutely nothing as you describe. Put on headlights to check battery, absolutely fine and no dimming when trying to crank. Tried loads of times, sometimes leaving long periods in between. Gave up and phoned the AA. They were going to take about 40 minutes. Tried a few more times while waiting. When I got a text confirming the AA man was on his way I tried a final time - still nothing.
AA man arrived, asked about problem, sat in driver’s seat, turned the key and it worked first time and each subsequent time he tried it!

Having had a similar problem with a VW Type 2 camper about 20yr ago which I eventually traced to be a missing earth lead from body to engine, I checked all the earth leads, removed, cleaned up and refitted. You have to remove the battery tray to access the one from body to engine.
I also removed, checked and cleaned up the spade connection to the solenoid [on top of the starter motor] – again it seemed fine and don’t think it is the problem.
As all the connections really seemed fine I wasn’t convinced this was the source of the problem. As a result of looking up other threads on here < >
and an RAC one<Freelander Intermitant starter > I convinced myself it was the ignition switch - electrical part.
Purchased one (part no YXB100350) from <https://www.lrdirect.com/YXB100350-Switch-Ignition/?sfi=YXB100350&keep_https=yes >. Fitted it and the same problem immediately occurred! The only other time this has happened! At least I have now eliminated this switch as the source of the problem.

There are three distinct sources of clicks when you turn the key to start position, when all is well:
(1) a loud click from the solenoid, on top of the starter;
(2) a click from the starter relay, under the bonnet in the fusebox at the near side.
(3) a click from behind the instrument panel somewhere.
When my problem occurs there is absolutely no click at all, so I’m sure it is not the solenoid.

I refitted the old ignition switch and the car started fine.

Checking the Haynes manual circuit diagram (Page 12-23: Starting & charging – diesel) and tracing the wire from the “crank” connection on the ignition switch there are a few things you can check:
(1) Fuse 5 (10A) in the passenger compartment fusebox (check with ohmmeter/continuity tester, or by replacement)
(2) Starter relay (R2) in the engine compartment fusebox. There are three identical relays here – the yellow “boxes”, so you can check by replacement e.g. swap the starter motor (SM) relay with the either the fuel pump relay (R1) or main relay (R4). [ See the underside of the fusebox cover for positions]

I still haven’t resolved the problem so I have made up an “emergency” kit consisting of a remote starter switch (I’ll create a separate thread on this.) and the new ignition switch.
The remote starter switch is just a push to make switch which I can temporarily connect between the battery positive and the solenoid terminal on the starter motor. This should allow me to crank the engine, should the problem occur again.

My conclusion is that it is something to do with the immobiliser system – but I would like to know conclusively what the problem is for peace of mind.

Dougden said:

Don't think our Freelanders like bump starting....Manual says not to do it! Don't know why though??

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only a manual trans can be bump started not a auto trans