Hi.
I bought a 2005 freelander td4 manual with 80k miles. Some of these problems i found before purchase and bartered a discount for, some only showed after a few extended drives. It's a long list, but it's an otherwise tidy car.
It's been a while since i have worked on cars, or even owned one, so i'm a bit rusty. I'm also on a budget, while needing to make sure the car is good for regular high mileage drives. I also have no idea which aftermarket or OEM freelander parts are ok to use or cr*p.
Hopefully someone can see if i'm on the right track and recommend the appropriate parts where needed. Or give me a heads up fidf special tools are needed for anything, or, if there are shortcuts to speed the jobs up for me.. Please forgive the long post and cheers for any input.
EDIT: have photo's if needed but i can't see how to upload them to a post.
Problem 1: Knock from rear (priority)
I have been under the car and identified a few problems:
Minor cracking on one of the central prop bearing mounts
Broken rear diff mount (prop end)
Minor cracking to l+R rear diff mounts
Leaks on rear diff at prop end and on one shaft
Leak on rear (cv?) joint
Is minor cracking a problem for the prop/diff mounts or only splitting?
Do i need to replace bearings or anything else when i do the diff seals?
Is there a 'rebuild pack' that would have all the bits i need?
How 'dire' is this? Just seals or a sign of VCU/DIFF failure?
What fluid do i use to refill and how much?
Are the cheaper mounts/seals etc good enough for this job or do i need oem/genuine?
Problem 2: Engine sounds increasingly whistly/whirry as revs increase.
It reminds me of the turbo whistle of a 300tdi, only louder and a bit chirpier (under load)
There is a pipe that come from the turbo, on the rear left hand side of the engine (by the turbo filter) as you look at the car. It runs vertically (from what i could feel) to somewhere. It has a small hole in it, which i temp fixed with a silicone compound until i can get a hose. It took some of the higher pitched noise away, but the bulk remans. I checked intercooler hoses at the front of the engine, couldn't find any other leaks.
I also checked the air intake system and given it a clean.
I am not sure which hose to buy, the ones i find are all for the intercooler hoses at the front of the engine. I couldn't see around the engine clearly either, so i could have missed something.
Which hose do i need and are the aftermarket ones any good?
Are there any more hoses that i have missed?
Assuming i have checked all pipes, is there another possible reason for the noise?
Problem 3: Lack of power at top end, especially at higher speed.
It just kinda goes flat higher up the revs sometime, more so uphill. I cleaned the EGR valve. I intend to check the MAF sensor. Going to order the BMW crankcase breather and a air/fuel/turbo filter. Going to degrease the inlet manifold (EGR gunk).
Is it wise to service the turbo solenoid valve while there [if it's possible, or should it be replaced if at fault]?
Will i need new gaskets/seals for the inlet manifold / rocker cover / injectors?
Problem 4: Brake juddering.
Feels a bit choppy and gives an audible noise when i press the brake. It's like a juddering/grating. Removing the ABS fuse changed nothing. It also sounds very loud when hill descent is on. It seems to remain noisier for a time after using hill decent too. It also disappeared completely for a drive, then reappeared upon next use (this happened after removing the ABS fuse, but i have not been able to replicate it, so assume it was coincidence).
I'm going to fit new pads/shoe's and check the drums/discs/ABS sensors/reluctor rings for damage.
I figure it could not ABS sensors or reluctor rings though,since it still happens with the ABS fuse removed?
Does this car have reluctor rings? I was reading some freelanders do not.
Problem 4: Clutch
Dealer agreed to pay for a replacement clutch to be fitted. Garages also want to fit a flywheel. The vehicle has not been inspected by the garages. Should it need a new flywheel at 80k miles? I'm going to have to pay the extra for the flywheel to be fitted.
The garages reckon there is no way of telling until they see it. Surely it would have symptoms if worn?
If it does need doing, are the aftermarket/OEM ones any good?
Is it something that is supposed to be replaced with the clutch, or, is the flywheel on the freelander not so bad?
Problem 5: Wheel alignment.
Car was pulling left and had loose steering. I fitted new front drop links. Less slack, but now a bit twitchy with some torque steer.
EDIT: Might be using the wrong term 'torque steer'. When i accelerate it feels like it is keen to turn and a little twitchy
There are quite a few wheel alignment options at the tyre shop than the last time i had to get it done. What do i need? Just basic tracking of front wheels, or, the fancy electronic wheel alignment options?
I bought a 2005 freelander td4 manual with 80k miles. Some of these problems i found before purchase and bartered a discount for, some only showed after a few extended drives. It's a long list, but it's an otherwise tidy car.
It's been a while since i have worked on cars, or even owned one, so i'm a bit rusty. I'm also on a budget, while needing to make sure the car is good for regular high mileage drives. I also have no idea which aftermarket or OEM freelander parts are ok to use or cr*p.
Hopefully someone can see if i'm on the right track and recommend the appropriate parts where needed. Or give me a heads up fidf special tools are needed for anything, or, if there are shortcuts to speed the jobs up for me.. Please forgive the long post and cheers for any input.
EDIT: have photo's if needed but i can't see how to upload them to a post.
Problem 1: Knock from rear (priority)
I have been under the car and identified a few problems:
Minor cracking on one of the central prop bearing mounts
Broken rear diff mount (prop end)
Minor cracking to l+R rear diff mounts
Leaks on rear diff at prop end and on one shaft
Leak on rear (cv?) joint
Is minor cracking a problem for the prop/diff mounts or only splitting?
Do i need to replace bearings or anything else when i do the diff seals?
Is there a 'rebuild pack' that would have all the bits i need?
How 'dire' is this? Just seals or a sign of VCU/DIFF failure?
What fluid do i use to refill and how much?
Are the cheaper mounts/seals etc good enough for this job or do i need oem/genuine?
Problem 2: Engine sounds increasingly whistly/whirry as revs increase.
It reminds me of the turbo whistle of a 300tdi, only louder and a bit chirpier (under load)
There is a pipe that come from the turbo, on the rear left hand side of the engine (by the turbo filter) as you look at the car. It runs vertically (from what i could feel) to somewhere. It has a small hole in it, which i temp fixed with a silicone compound until i can get a hose. It took some of the higher pitched noise away, but the bulk remans. I checked intercooler hoses at the front of the engine, couldn't find any other leaks.
I also checked the air intake system and given it a clean.
I am not sure which hose to buy, the ones i find are all for the intercooler hoses at the front of the engine. I couldn't see around the engine clearly either, so i could have missed something.
Which hose do i need and are the aftermarket ones any good?
Are there any more hoses that i have missed?
Assuming i have checked all pipes, is there another possible reason for the noise?
Problem 3: Lack of power at top end, especially at higher speed.
It just kinda goes flat higher up the revs sometime, more so uphill. I cleaned the EGR valve. I intend to check the MAF sensor. Going to order the BMW crankcase breather and a air/fuel/turbo filter. Going to degrease the inlet manifold (EGR gunk).
Is it wise to service the turbo solenoid valve while there [if it's possible, or should it be replaced if at fault]?
Will i need new gaskets/seals for the inlet manifold / rocker cover / injectors?
Problem 4: Brake juddering.
Feels a bit choppy and gives an audible noise when i press the brake. It's like a juddering/grating. Removing the ABS fuse changed nothing. It also sounds very loud when hill descent is on. It seems to remain noisier for a time after using hill decent too. It also disappeared completely for a drive, then reappeared upon next use (this happened after removing the ABS fuse, but i have not been able to replicate it, so assume it was coincidence).
I'm going to fit new pads/shoe's and check the drums/discs/ABS sensors/reluctor rings for damage.
I figure it could not ABS sensors or reluctor rings though,since it still happens with the ABS fuse removed?
Does this car have reluctor rings? I was reading some freelanders do not.
Problem 4: Clutch
Dealer agreed to pay for a replacement clutch to be fitted. Garages also want to fit a flywheel. The vehicle has not been inspected by the garages. Should it need a new flywheel at 80k miles? I'm going to have to pay the extra for the flywheel to be fitted.
The garages reckon there is no way of telling until they see it. Surely it would have symptoms if worn?
If it does need doing, are the aftermarket/OEM ones any good?
Is it something that is supposed to be replaced with the clutch, or, is the flywheel on the freelander not so bad?
Problem 5: Wheel alignment.
Car was pulling left and had loose steering. I fitted new front drop links. Less slack, but now a bit twitchy with some torque steer.
EDIT: Might be using the wrong term 'torque steer'. When i accelerate it feels like it is keen to turn and a little twitchy
There are quite a few wheel alignment options at the tyre shop than the last time i had to get it done. What do i need? Just basic tracking of front wheels, or, the fancy electronic wheel alignment options?
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