Freelander td4 problem heeeeellllp!!!!!!!

Need desperate help on a td4 freelander 03 plate....
The fault is the very slow to rev up up and sometimes won't rev above 2000 rpm... But if I disconnect the air mass then it's perfect.... I've changed the air mass twice it's had a recon turbo.. Changed the cam cover filter.. Checked all turbo pipes... Bypassed the inter cooler... I'm really at a loss with it now... If anyone has ever come across this before could u put me out my misery and tell me what it is. Cheers

have you checked your EGR...I bet its blocked, try bypassing the egr and see if that helps !

joe27979 said:

have you checked your EGR...I bet its blocked, try bypassing the egr and see if that helps !

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I think he's already done that joe - as I'm not sure what else the OP could mean when he says he's by-passed the intercooler.

Yea bloked off the egr still the same..

air mass meter or connector problem? if you remove the plug the ecu defaults to a safe spec mode, if this resolves the problem its got to be something to do with that?

you say you've changed it twice already, are you using genuine or copy parts?

nick270891 said:

Yea bloked off the egr still the same..

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there is a big difference between blocking off the egr (vac control hose) and removing to clean or bypassing. you've removed egr and cleaned it then your saying? have you removed the inlet manifold and cleaned that? when manifold is off you will see the engine ports and they get very choked up too chief

have you checked the fuel filters is there enough fuel getting through people often over look as the car starts but thats it when you have check al you are going to check have a look at the filters or PUMP

"But if I disconnect the air mass then it's perfect...."
Leave it disconnected then .... problem solved. :doh:

It is a genuine air mass on there and I've put a genuine egr on cleaned the inlet out. I've put fuel pressure guage on there and plenty of fuel pressure there... Like I said this thing is a comPete headache.. I wish I could leave it disconnected but it's a customers car so can't be done.

nick270891 said:

It is a genuine air mass on there and I've put a genuine egr on cleaned the inlet out. I've put fuel pressure guage on there and plenty of fuel pressure there... Like I said this thing is a comPete headache.. I wish I could leave it disconnected but it's a customers car so can't be done.

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have you tried a boost gauge to see how much pressure is being produced into the inlet? some of the newer type egy bypass mods have a tapping to attach a hose...just a thought, if it is supplying the intended boosy pressure then thats the air out of the way sorted - id be looking at fuel, checked fuel pressure sensor and common rail wiring connections? these corrode and cause issues.

hmm, im scratching my head for ya too though chief!

checked this out?
Freelander TD4 wont rev over 2,500 rpm### Fixed####

Don't see how this can be related to fuel pressure because disconnecting the MAF sensor makes it run correctly. The fact that you have changed the MAF with no improvement when it is reconnected leads me to suspect the MAP sensor, take it out (only one screw holding it in) & give it a good clean with WD40 & stick a small screwdriver in the hole to clear it out. The MAP sensor tends to get gunged up with the same stuff that blocks the EGR valve.

Today I have cleaned the map sensor and also plugged into again to see if any faults are stored and there are none what so ever... Any more suggestions????? Thanks

nick270891 said:

Today I have cleaned the map sensor and also plugged into again to see if any faults are stored and there are none what so ever... Any more suggestions????? Thanks

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i still reckon maf/maf wiring...they will rarely throw a fault cos as long as the ecu gets a signal from it (good or bad) it thinks its ok. are you mates with anyone with a working td4 that you can swap out the maf from?

As above,

The ecu is obviously detecting the maf when it's connected, but if you can read live data it'll probably show a low maf signal.
Get a multimeter on the wiring, check the connector pin-outs in rave and confirm everything between maf connector and ecu.

Hi all,
Found out something new tOday if I remove the maf sensor away from the pipe that leads to the turbo and leave it connected still then it revs perfect again also I've changed the map sensor:.: so does this now rule out the maf sensor and ecu????

nick270891 said:

Hi all,
Found out something new tOday if I remove the maf sensor away from the pipe that leads to the turbo and leave it connected still then it revs perfect again also I've changed the map sensor:.: so does this now rule out the maf sensor and ecu????

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It won't give a plausible signal if it isn't cooled by the airflow so I would think the ECU is implementing the same default strategy as it does when disconnected.

There's no point in guessing, you need to read live data from the ECU to see what's going on and get a multimeter on the wiring.

nick270891 said:

Hi all,
Found out something new tOday if I remove the maf sensor away from the pipe that leads to the turbo and leave it connected still then it revs perfect again also I've changed the map sensor:.: so does this now rule out the maf sensor and ecu????

Click to expand...

hmmm could be blocked airfilter or blocked air intake pipe,found a dead babby rabbit in the air intake pipe on a old escort deisel turbo before

Looks to me like it could be a high resistance joint somewhere between the ECU & the MAF sensor (or the ECU itself is faulty), the heater element in the MAF sensor needs to be fed with a constant current, it might be that the current is low which would give a false low MAF reading. For comparison I've attached some real time data I took from my TD4 manual in 2009, I stopped the cursor at about 2,000 rpm so you can see roughly what you should have at that RPM. I logged the data using PCMSCAN software but their are lots of other software / gizmo's that can do the same thing. I agree with Chaser, it's time to get it hooked up so you know whats happening.