Freelander prop shaft

Afternoon. I can't seem to find this problem anywhere else on the forum.
I've bought a 1.8 Freelander as an MOT failure. One of the things I noticed was there was a loud clunk when the clutch was released aggressively on the test drive.
The garage have fixed the faults, put a fresh MOT on it and also noticed the rear prop shaft was at fault making the clunking noise.
The simple solution was to remove the offending part, as on my wifes Freelander and make do with a front wheel drive one.
The issue is, the garage tell me that when they did that, there was no drive to the front wheels, so they have repaired the uj in the shaft and a bearing at the rear of the shaft. I now get vibration/body knocking at certain speeds/rpm which cannot be good. Usually, up hill in 3rd, 3000rpm/30mph
My question is, how or what is wrong with the transmission that doesn't enable it to be a front wheel drive car only? Any ideas or solutions are appreciated.

Ird is fecked ?

mark666freelander said:

Ird is fecked ?

Click to expand...

Exactly.
The propshaft is causing the vibration

This is the confusing part. There was no knocking from the rear prior to them removing the prop shaft. There was a loud clonk if the clutch was released quickly though. They have replaced the cv joint and the bush in the shaft, and now I get the clonking from the shaft under strain around 3rd gear/3000rpm/30mph.
Ironically, I have looked at the front off side and there is no sign of oil leakage and when I put the car on grass, gave it some beans, I got 4 muddy wheel spin tracks. How dies that happen?
My understanding of these transmissions is limited, but I thought they were front wheel drive all the time, with drive being transferred to the rear through the VCU when things got fun. If that is the case, surely the rear drive would disengage at any opportunity.
Also, there is very little rolling resistance in the car, even on full lock, unlike the wives car, which had to be powered all the time and wouldn't freewheel on lock.

I note in your first post you said that the garage told you there was no drive to the front wheels.

Have you personally experienced it like that, with no front drive?

I have a reluctance to just accept what garages tell me, based on expensive experience.

Singvogel.

It's pretty easy to check the IRD if you can lift the front clear of the ground? All you need do is spin the one front wheel, the wheel on the other side should spin the other direction, this will test the front diff. Then just lift 1 front wheel and try to turn it, it should only turn a small amount if little effort is used. Or if you use more effort it should turn with resistance. This tests the rest of the driveline.

Sorry if I've missed the crucial point here - not sure if your center prop is still connected ie 4 wheel drive. The time mine did the clonk on aggresive clutch as rear wheels got drive - cause was shot diff mounts . The diff was jumping up and hitting the sub frame. Apols if this borrocks.