Freelander newbie

Hi all, My name is Louis, I am new to the forum and considering purchasing a Freelander TD4. I run a Defender 2.5 as a workhorse in work and love it.

I have a question, what is the Freelander 1 (Facelift) like on the motorway? I will be doing a 500-700 mile round trip 4-5 times a year, will she give a good comfortable ride?
Also, I am looking for examples with around 100-120k miles on the clock. I have researched problems with drive shafts etc but is there anything specific I should look out for on vehicles with this mileage, different to the normal?

Why a Freelander? Myself and my Wife have both always loved them and we need a fairly big car now, with the ability to occasionally tow. Stories of 40mpg from the Manual TD4 helps massively. We're hoping a Freelander will stay with us for a good few years without the need to change vehicles.

I will be doing a 500-700 mile round trip 4-5 times a year, will she give a good comfortable ride?

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reckon so .. they're a pretty good long distance vehicle ..
mine's got 146k miles .. ride be comfortable .. although they do have a tendency to lean in corners

have had the FL2 for a few days .. both manual and auto .. and the disco-sport ..
( loaners from the garage ) .. they rode somewhat better .. probably due to age/mileage diff.
but also the suspension be a different design .. so the LR techies told me when i mentioned it

couple of threads :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/what-to-lock-for-on-freelanders.163164/#post-1620217

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

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Hi Louis,

I have a 2001 FL1 1.8 S 3-door. It's a spacious little car inside and does the motorways really well in a relaxed loping manner. It eats the miles very comfortably.

On the twistier lanes, the FL rolls far less than I thought it would - and in fact is surprisingly taught. It's no sports car, but once set up in a corner it goes round with no fuss whatsoever.

As mine is a petrol, I can't really comment on the benefits of the TD4 (although I have that same M47R engine in my ZTT) but I'd have thought it would be generally similar.

The driveline Achilles heel for all FL1s is the viscous coupling unit (VCU) that functions as the centre differential between the front and rear axles. With age, the silicone inside the unit becomes more viscous leading to transmission wind up that places undue strain on the rear diff and (more expensively) on the independent reduction drive (IRD).

The one wheel up test (OWUT) is the way to check the VCU, but on a road test, drive the car back and forth st full lock. Some lock up can be expected, but shouldn't bring the car to a halt when ticking over at idle. If it does (and/or there are transmission knocks/bangs), either walk away or budget for replacement. Bell engineering do a reconditioned replacement for around £200.

Happy hunting! I think you'll love the FL1 if you can a good one

I agree with everything Rob Bell has said above, the F1 is a pretty good all-rounder which deals with roadtrips very well. Look out for that viscous coupling. Mine's a TD4 and it returns a very genuine 40 mpg on a decent run having had the EGR valve deleted and a decent set of silicon hoses. I've also fitted the BMW-style "cyclone" crankcase breather in place of the standard filter. None of these little mods are difficult or very expensive. Remember that all F1's are over 10 years old now and even the low mileage examples will benefit from proper and regular servicing and it's worth noting that they really do prefer decent diesel. Mine coughs like a 60-a-day smoker on supermarket stuff but really purrs on the genuine fuel.

If you're just planning on using it as a road car I'd go for the "sport" versions. They have lower, stiffer suspension and handle much better than normally sprung vehicles while still being very comfortable. I've got one of each and I much prefer driving the "sport", except when the weather is sunny, as I can take the top off the other one. Whatever you get, you'll get loads of good advice here if/when you need it.

DefenderPilot said:

If you're just planning on using it as a road car I'd go for the "sport" versions. They have lower, stiffer suspension and handle much better than normally sprung vehicles while still being very comfortable. I've got one of each and I much prefer driving the "sport", except when the weather is sunny, as I can take the top off the other one. Whatever you get, you'll get loads of good advice here if/when you need it.

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Agreed. The Sport is definitely a better road vehicle. It's the version I'd get should I replace my current SE.

Your advice is priceless, Thankyou everyone for your information, it is going to prove invaluable during my search for a F1 TD4. Your forum is very friendly, and I hope to become a part of your community when we purchase!
If I went for a Sport model, would there be any compromise on towing? We plan on towing a small boat and small caravan from time to time.

I have been researching insurance also, on comparison websites. Are there any Land Rover specialist companies I should be looking for to receive a better price or service?

Well, not been a TD4 owner for long myself but welcome to the forum. There is a fairly comprehensive list of things to be aware of when buying a FL1 (TD4 or otherwise) in addition to the normal car buying stuff. (normal service etc)

Probably the main component to be aware of us the Viscous Coupling Unit(VCU) These can fail over the very short period of time and cause catastrophic damage to the Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD) and also the rear differential. If you search on here for the VCU and how to test it whilst driving(not a definitive test per se) it should point you in the correct direction. Tyre must be of the same make and profile/type....any that have mixed brands etc will cause damage to the VCU and the other parts mentioned. Cars with bigger mileages may suffer from injection or injection harness problems that can cause 'rough' low end running issues. Faulty MAF sensor can give similar symptoms. Be aware that having a 'Full Service History means little, even from 'Main Dealers'. There are specific serviceable parts within the Inlet system and engine vacuum system that are usually missed by 'normal' mechanics. If they are not serviced then they will cause very poor running. PCV filter/Turbo outlet filter/fuel filter (low pressure side) EGR valve/vacuum lines etc MAP sensor to name but a few. Turbos can fail but this is generally a rare occurrence apparently. It is recommended only only to use higher quality diesel as well. Only fit OEM parts and not pattern parts. Fuel filters etc included. If you are handy with the spanners you will be busy but saving yourself a lot of money if you are willing to give a go! Interiors seem to fair okay, some owners change out the stereo, not done that on mine. Window regulators fail. All of mine failed within 24 hrs of each other, as did my electric retractable mirrors. Sunroofs too can fail. Repair kits are available on 'bay of 'e' for little money for both windows and sunroof. Rear door windows can leak and allow water into the 'sandwich box'(tool storage 'cubby') in the rear and if the window doesn't 'drop' on actuating the handle it can break if the door is forced open. I have missed loads of things out on here (propshaft bearing/fuel tank cradle etc) but you are in good company on this forum, there are people of here that live, eat and sleep Freelander stuff....I am currently an insomniac...the first stage of FL 1 madness. One thing to watch out for when buying is to make sure that the propshaft is fitted. If not it could point to previous issues that may have damaged the IRD and possibly the diff if you wanted to refit it...again searching on here will explain why anyone would do that....

Best of luck...Remember, if you can drive a good FL1 before you go out looking all the better and try to drive/inspect as many as you can, there is a lot of rubbish out there(second hand cars in general) and you are not obligated to buy anything at first sight..

For a TD4 you can tow up to 2 tonnes, whatever model it is so no, no compromise. Of course, it depends on when you passed your driving test what you are entitled to tow. It's not so simple if you passed your test after January 1997 as the law changed then reducing what you could legally tow unless you took a separate trailer test. I've had a few varied and heavy loads on the back of the "sport" and it's towed impeccably, once all the way from South Wales to Shetland. The North Sea part of it was a bit troublesome though, as it was slightly over the recommended wading depth.

l_h said:

Your advice is priceless, Thankyou everyone for your information, it is going to prove invaluable during my search for a F1 TD4. Your forum is very friendly, and I hope to become a part of your community when we purchase!
If I went for a Sport model, would there be any compromise on towing? We plan on towing a small boat and small caravan from time to time.

I have been researching insurance also, on comparison websites. Are there any Land Rover specialist companies I should be looking for to receive a better price or service?

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As DP said. All variants are allowed to tow 2 Tonnes (license permitting). Just be aware that the clutch takes a right old pounding when when towing. I personally always buy an auto, simply because it's better for towing and in my opinion, drives better too. The economy of the TD4 auto is reduced though, so keep that in mind.
Otherwise look for a well looked after car and keep a £500 contingency fund handy, just in case.
Good luck with the search.

I am aware of the driving licence restrictions on towing, my licence unforteuntly limits me but I will be taking my towing test shortly to overcome the restrictions.
You have all given me invaluable advice, which will prove valuable once I begin my search, Thankyou. I like the idea of a sport model, they look great too, so that will be an idea of one is available within my budget.

Do any of you have any insurance company recommendations, who to try?

l_h said:

I am aware of the driving licence restrictions on towing, my licence unforteuntly limits me but I will be taking my towing test shortly to overcome the restrictions.
You have all given me invaluable advice, which will prove valuable once I begin my search, Thankyou. I like the idea of a sport model, they look great too, so that will be an idea of one is available within my budget.

Do any of you have any insurance company recommendations, who to try?

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'Gooooo...Compare....Goooooo Compare..........'

I hate that fat tw4t!!!

Only joking, I sound like a fascist....

I had a FL1 2002 preface lift - but later S1 with smoked lights/blacker bumpers rather than grey.

Best car I ever had, never let me down.
Only car I've ever been sorry to see go (I've had some nice cars in that time) - and it was mint when I Px'd it - aged 12.
Because of that car I came back after 4 years for a FL2.
(Always had another LR in the fleet

I'd probably buy it if I saw it for sale.