Freelander clutch issues

Hi
Just seeing if anyone can help? My T-reg exdi has just gone bang.........
Was driving home normally, I had just made a turn when pop! Clutch pedal went straight
to floor and wouldnt return.....
Got home, by starting in gear and staying in same gear for @ 300 -400 yards.
Examined at home, and found the slave cylinder had popped apart due to the bracket being cracked and bent.........
So renewed said parts but still cannot engage gears??
Can anyone advise how much 'freeplay' there should be at fork-arm? Or any other advise?
Regards,
Troy

When you press the clutch pedal the operating arm on the gearbox housing slides into the bell housing and acts on the clutch bearing pushing it into the 'fingers' on the clutch pressure plate....thereby disengaging the clutch to make gear shifts......if the pedal travels to the floor....and you get a mate to watch the arm go thro the bell housing and its moving ok then I would GUESS the thrust bearing has pushed all the way thro the fingers on the pressure plate.....IRD off..... G Box off..... full new clutch AND master cylinder. Only way to be sure if its this problem is to dismantle it and examine...
Hopefully not tho, G Luck !

Many thanks, arm moves smoothly...
Over an inch, which was as making me think... as car was driving perfectly, No slip, No grinding then just bang and foot to floor!
Saw threads about cylinders...one item plug and play and bracket problems. ..
Mine was bent, sheared from metal fatigue and slave in bits.....(Had been bodged before, held in place with cable tie!)
So changed all that but seems too much travel at lever..guessed that thrust had pushed through.
Is there a link on clutch change step by step anywhere ?

when the slave bracket broke and the slave popped did any fluid come out?

Hi Kizzeh, Yes plenty of fluid everywhere! Any particular reason why you ask?
Symptom of something?
Regards, Troy

so it needs replenishing perhaps? or have you refilled and bled?

freelance said:

so it needs replenishing perhaps? or have you refilled and bled?

Click to expand...

The clutch hydraulics are sealed no filling or bleeding required.
It sounds like the release lever isn't free for all its movement. Apply lots of oil on the shaft where it enters the gearbox then work it back and forward by hand.

HI Everyone, thanks for all help so far, though I think some of you have misread......
When unit exploded, having read the historic posts, I chsnged the master/slave sealed unit and the bracket all new as mine were clearly damaged...
The arm moves about an inch before you can hear it engage anything. .. It sounds like the fingers of the pressure plate, but? The thing I'm enquiring about is,
IMO: To get more movement from "bite point" of lever, Will be at absolute max of slave capacity
Car had no previous symptoms of clutch failure;
NOISE,SLIP, GEAR SELECTION

Troyyz said:

HI Everyone, thanks for all help so far, though I think some of you have misread......
When unit exploded, having read the historic posts, I chsnged the master/slave sealed unit and the bracket all new as mine were clearly damaged...
The arm moves about an inch before you can hear it engage anything. .. It sounds like the fingers of the pressure plate, but? The thing I'm enquiring about is,
IMO: To get more movement from "bite point" of lever, Will be at absolute max of slave capacity
Car had no previous symptoms of clutch failure;
NOISE,SLIP, GEAR SELECTION

Click to expand...

Check for wear in the pedal clevis pin. Any lost motion there will cause problems.
If this is ok it is possible to elongate the holes that bolt the slave bracket to the box so you can get some extra push. If that doesn't work then it's likely the release bearing has failed.

Thanks for that idea Nodge.....
Can I do any more damage if it has pushed through pressure plate? I can move carrier arm and rod, (that goes into casing) back towards slave cylinder about 1 inch
There is no resistance or 'catching' during this.
Regards
TROY

All this is guesswork.... I reckon theres good cause to pull the IRD and gearbox off. Its the only way to get a definite diagnosis. Im in middle off dramas off my own..... complete loss off drive. Finished pulling IRD out after theorising for a few days....turns out the diff has shattered inside the IRD into loads of parts...luckily the casings sound so im fetching a recon/exchange IRD tommo from bell engineering.
Honestly...strip it after all its only time with the spanners out.