Freelander Belt Change

Hi all,

This is my first post on this forum, so please be gentle!

Yesterday, I acquired my first Land Rover - a spotless 2000 1.8 Freelander Station Wagon. 101K on the clock, runs very sweetly, with no tappet noise at all, and more importantly, no signs of HG problems (he says with fingers crossed - mind you, I did even do a 'sniff' test on it which was all clear).

I have been thinking about getting a Land Rover for some time and I must say that I am completely smitten with it. It's so good that my wife was even talking about getting rid of her Mini Cooper and buying a Freelander - high praise indeed.

The only thing that's missing is some service history and, given how good the rest of the car is, I want to start from a known point and keep right on top of it - I understand that Freelanders respond well to being cared for.

One of the first jobs that I will be doing is a cam belt change. Went straight out yesterday and purchased the kit (although, I have to return the one supplied as it has a manual tensioner - not an automatic, as my car does).

Whilst I was in the motor factors, I also picked up a water pump. Having done cam belts on several previous cars (including a Porsche 944 - what a job) conventional wisdom has always been that it's one of those, 'whilst you are in there' jobs that really is worth doing.

My question is.....am I right in thinking that this is the case with the Freelander? Part of me says, "you've got the part - just do it" and part of me says, "it's running so sweetly now, don't disturb anything you don't have to".

As I say, I am new to the car so any words of wisdom those more experieneced can offer will be gratefully recieved.

Looking forward to getting home tonight just so I can find an excuse to go for a drive!

Cheers,

Ian.

No idea what the post above by Sean is meant to be, but yes... the water pump is something that's advised to be changed at the same time as the cambelt.

Make sure you put the red OAT coolant in and if it's not currently got it, do a flush before filling with OAT.

Have you got a camshaft locking tool? You'll do the job easier with one of these.

Thanks Freebiker - decision made.

Now, this may seem like a strange question, but the water pump supplied looks a little odd.

The drive gear is beveled - see attached photo. I can't recall seeing this type of pulley before - I would have thought that it can not be good for belt alignment.

Also, the one currently on the car has (I think) a stright cut pulley.



I always seem to have problems with this particular factor, so it would not surprise me if it needs to go back.

Does this look right?

The red OAT stuff - I guess that's the same as Halfords advanced?

Sorry for all the questions, I think I'm a little too cautious for my own good some times!

Cheers,

Ian.

Haynes make no mention of a bevelled pulley, all pictures and illustrations show a standard, flat arrangement as would be expected. RAVE shows the same. You sure you got the right part there?

Darmain said:

Haynes make no mention of a bevelled pulley, all pictures and illustrations show a standard, flat arrangement as would be expected. RAVE shows the same. You sure you got the right part there?

Click to expand...

Exactly! It's going back - there is one guy at this factors and, if I get served by him, guaranteed, at least one part will go back.

Wouldn't mind if he weren't such a miserable so and so, too!!!

Thanks for the advice - instinct told me this was wrong.

Going off at a bit of a tangent here, I ordered a flywheel lock today - Laser Locking Tool

Not sure if I have to remove the starter for this, or whether it can be used through the apperture to the right of the exhaust manifold (following the removal of the cover)?

Thanks again,

Ian.

camshaft locking tool is the one you need,

Cheers Freelance.

I already have the cmashaft locking tool - bought many years ago for my old Rover 214.

Just concerened about getting the pulley bolt loosened.

Cheers again,

Ian.

Recently done the water pump on mine and can confirm that it does not have the bevelled edge. Mine was a genuine from the local LR dealer.

Flywheel locking tool is useful, but i found it just as easy to put her into 5th and get a friend to stamp the brake. The one in the link above does look like the type you remove the starter for but i'm not 100% on that.

Oh, and yes you can use that red stuff halfords do... thats OAT. Got it in mine.

Thanks Freebiker - I really appreciate your advice on this.

Looks like I may be roping a mate in to stand on the brakes on Saturday - to save disturbing the starter motor.

Thanks again,

Ian.

No worries, hope it goes well!

Shall your freeby live long, and prosper!

You're doing the right thing changing it & the water pump at the same time. You're obviously reasonably clued up & have gone in to Freelander ownership with your eyes open which is good.
One thing I'd advise is maybe change your parts supplier, I know exactly what you mean about the tosser who always moans & can't do his job right. Makes the whole thing unpleasant.
There are lots of aftermarket LR parts suppliers around, but you must at all costs avoid Britpart. They are a shambles, unpleasant & sell really poor quality crap which often fails very quickly. It's very important when buying online or mail order that you question the make of any budget offerings. If you've got a Premier Motor Factors outlet near you then you can try them in future for quickly needed stuff as they're not too bad at all. There are however many better specialist LR parts factors around if you don't mind a couple of days wait for them to ship out.

Thanks Chromiumuk. Yes, currently, I'm using a national factor - in fact, their names suggests that they are, perhaps, European, also!

There is another large national chain about 10 miles away - think they may be getting a visit soon.

Thanks for the tip on Britpart - funnily enough, I was looking at their site just today.

Having said that, my local LR dealer is just 20 miles away - and I do enjoy driving the Freelander.

Cheers again,

Ian.

It will do no harm to have the belt done, but personally I wouldn't have touched the water pump (it's fear tactics and nanny state for an easy job and easily detected)


only refill with green coolant as 2000 models should have this, OAT is a rip off

Service it (this time) then stop worrying about it just drive it, enjoy it, save your money for those things that do go wrong

only refill with green coolant as 2000 models should have this, OAT is a rip off

Service it (this time) then stop worrying about it just drive it, enjoy it, save your money for those things that do go wrong

Click to expand...

Wise words indeed.

Thanks for that Northern Irelander.

Vulcan426 said:

Exactly! It's going back - there is one guy at this factors and, if I get served by him, guaranteed, at least one part will go back.

Wouldn't mind if he weren't such a miserable so and so, too!!!

Thanks for the advice - instinct told me this was wrong.

Going off at a bit of a tangent here, I ordered a flywheel lock today - Laser Locking Tool

Not sure if I have to remove the starter for this, or whether it can be used through the apperture to the right of the exhaust manifold (following the removal of the cover)?

Thanks again,

Ian.

Click to expand...

Removing the starter won't help I'm afraid, the only way this flywheel spragging tool can be used, is to remove the gearbox!, put it into fifth, and have someone stand on the brakes whilst you undo the crank pulley nut.
Cheers
Brian.
P.S. this is the water pump you want to buy... ROVER "K" SERIES (25-45-75) WATER PUMP NEW AND GENUINE on eBay (end time 04-Jun-10 08:37:58 BST) Don't be put off by the outer casting, It will fit perfectly!.

Cheers Brian,

As it goes, I have already sourced the pump - got a SKF pump and belt kit. All in for just under £100 including VAT - didn't seem bad price wise and it looks good quality.

Tried to do the job today but, after getting the FL up on stands, undertray removed - air box removed (assuming that I was going to be removing the starter) I got beaten by......the camshaft locking tool.

I have a Draper CLT-K16, which I have had for years. Originally, this was purchased for my old Rover 214 - and worked a treat. On the FL, however, it clearly does not fit.

Spent an hour making sure the timing marls were lined up etc, but no good - wouldn't fit.

I guess this tool was designed for an older K series but seems strange.

Any ideas which cam locking tool works with the 1.8K series.

Cheers again,

Ian.

Vulcan426 said:

Cheers Brian,

As it goes, I have already sourced the pump - got a SKF pump and belt kit. All in for just under £100 including VAT - didn't seem bad price wise and it looks good quality.

Tried to do the job today but, after getting the FL up on stands, undertray removed - air box removed (assuming that I was going to be removing the starter) I got beaten by......the camshaft locking tool.

I have a Draper CLT-K16, which I have had for years. Originally, this was purchased for my old Rover 214 - and worked a treat. On the FL, however, it clearly does not fit.

Spent an hour making sure the timing marls were lined up etc, but no good - wouldn't fit.

I guess this tool was designed for an older K series but seems strange.

Any ideas which cam locking tool works with the 1.8K series.

Cheers again,

Ian.

Click to expand...

Hi Ian, as far as I'm aware, there is no difference between the camshaft pulleys on all 16v K series, with the notable exception of the VVC engines, the tool I used for mine was a LASER 2626 Laser 2626 Camshaft Locking Tool - Rover K16 TCN2626 from Stockwell Tools
Dead pricey, isn't it, look the same as yours though?, in what way can't you get it to fit?
The only difference between the earlier K's to the later ones, is the cambelt tensioner styles, manual or the later auto, the belts for the auto tensioner types are 26mm wide as opposed to 23mm for manual, and have a couple more teeth to take into account, the larger diameter of the tensioner pulley, the camshaft pulleys are identical.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Brian.
P.S. I bought this tool 10 years ago for my 1989 214 SLi !.

Hi Brian,

Yes, they look identical - which is what has thrown me.

When I try to insert it, the fit is just too tight, It's almost as if the 'lobes' on the tool are too big for those on the pulley.

Just ordered a Laser one from e-bay - wish I'd seen the Stockwell Tools link - just paid twice that. Mind you, even at that price, it's not going to break the bank.

Thanks again,

Ian.

I have the Draper tool, ordered it a few weeks ago. Fit perfectly for me. Looks identical to the laser tool.