SORTED - Freelander 1 TD4, Cut out at speed not restart

On a very long day after 400 plus miles my FL1 cut out at 70 mph, no warning coughs splutters or weird noises and refuses to start
Turns over fast no problem.
I can hear the wheel arch fuel pump
Swapped over / tapped moved relays and checked fuses
Think I found the inertia cut off switch and pressed it (does it cut off the pump or close a valve ?)

Towed it home, checked on scanner and no faults in memory
Cannot get it to fire at all
I am gonna change fuel filter when it arrives (could a filter absolutely block all fuel ?)

Anything else to check first before I start swapping out stuff ?

Thanks Paul G

Sly401 said:

On a very long day after 400 plus miles my FL1 cut out at 70 mph, no warning coughs splutters or weird noises and refuses to start
Turns over fast no problem.
I can hear the wheel arch fuel pump
Swapped over / tapped moved relays and checked fuses
Think I found the inertia cut off switch and pressed it (does it cut off the pump or close a valve ?)

Towed it home, checked on scanner and no faults in memory
Cannot get it to fire at all
I am gonna change fuel filter when it arrives (could a filter absolutely block all fuel ?)

Anything else to check first before I start swapping out stuff ?

Thanks Paul G

Click to expand...

Hi Paul.
So the FL1 Td4 is cranking ok, i presume from cold as well ? but will not fire up/start, sounds like the HPFP O-rings to me so i would check those first, cheep fix if it is those.

Stater needs removing to get to the regulator.

If it's the HPFP it's self leaking then seals are available

Maybe do a leak back test also on the injectors, but an injector being down usually would not stop it from running and doubt it would cut out as it did.

Any diagnosis codes ?

Hi Artic

Arctic2 said:

Hi Paul.
So the FL1 Td4 is cranking ok, i presume from cold as well ? but will not fire up/start, sounds like the HPFP O-rings to me so i would check those first, cheep fix if it is those.

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Stater needs removing to get to the regulator.

If it's the HPFP it's self leaking then seals are available

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Maybe do a leak back test also on the injectors, but an injector being down usually would not stop it from running and doubt it would cut out as it did.

Any diagnosis codes ?

Click to expand...

Hi, Thnks for reply,
No diagnosis codes in memory but can't check till I get it running, Good cranking speed even cold
I had half expected it to start this morning after a little fuel had found it way through a blocked filter but no

Where is best place to check if I have fuel flow (LP) up to the engine ?
I am presuming that if I find the LP in put line I can check if I have delivery to engine
Thanks Paul

Sly401 said:

Where is best place to check if I have fuel flow (LP) up to the engine ?

Click to expand...

remove the lp input hose from the hp pump .. turn on ignition
that's 1 way ..
the fuel regulator on the hp could be sticking .. and though the fault code for that shows on a 'hawkeye' scanner,
other readers might not show it .. that happened to me once .. the lr dealership couldn't figure what were wrong.
i had to use my 'hawkey' to find the fault.
as has been mentioned .. the o-rings inside the hp.pump regulator could have failed.
[ 'new' hawkeye scanners are no longer available , only used ones ]
.
i imagine a failed crank-sensor would stop an fl1-td4 in its' tracks .. as well.
.
{EDIT} ..
just remembered .. hp.fuel regulator sticking symptom were:
engine would start .. but touch the go-pedal , and engine would stop.
the temp. solution to get it not to stall, were to disconnect the fuel rail sensor.
.

You say turns over fast, is it faster than usual. I'm thinking no compression or timing chain issue. Because after a few minutes of cranking I'd expect a significant drop in cranking speed.

Hi Guys, Cranking speed is ok there is compression
I took off the LP fuel line lots of fuel being delivered By LP pump
I cracked an injector pipe plenty of fuel up at the rail

( I was surprised that turning ignition on gave me fuel flow at rail - is this correct ? )

I have swapped over / checked (clicking ) all relays and checked all fuses.

I have a higher level scanner coming later today that may show something

At minute I am leaning towards crank sensor or its wiring

Thanks for the replies much appreciated

I'm no expert but sounds like electrical
Broken wire or failed sensor

landowner said:

I'm no expert but sounds like electrical
Broken wire or failed sensor

Click to expand...

Yep I am on that track, cam or crank sensor maybe

Just dragged a 1E25 fault code out of it, Scanner I am using says undefined
But I believe it is cam sensor
Any way of testing (without engine running )?

Thanks Paul

Cleared codes and 1E25 fault eventually re-appeared, used a different scanner and cleared codes 1E25 came back (after a while)
Pulled out the sensor have 12 v and ground
signal voltage only 0.2 V
no variation in signal voltage when passing a metal object past the sensor

So took the plunge and ordered a new one from europarts, hope the quality is ok and it cures my problem
Fri morning delivery

here's hoping

Paul

regarding the cam-sensor ..
on the td4/m47 engine .. it's only used for starting a.f.a.i.k.
see : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/75-zt-td4-fault-diagnosis.203935/

Sly401 said:

On a very long day after 400 plus miles my FL1 cut out at 70 mph, no warning coughs splutters or weird noises and refuses to start

Click to expand...

so wondering what caused it to cut out in the 1st place.

another info manual [.pdf] for the td4/m47 ..
.

hd3 said:

regarding the cam-sensor ..
on the td4/m47 engine .. it's only used for starting a.f.a.i.k.
see : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/75-zt-td4-fault-diagnosis.203935/

so wondering what caused it to cut out in the 1st place.

another info manual [.pdf] for the td4/m47 ..

freelander td4 m47r manual

workshop manual rover 75 BMW47 td4 diesel 2.0

www.landyzone.co.uk

.

Click to expand...

Hi Thanks for reply, I didn't know cam sensor was only used in starting, still not getting good readings could be a case of costly elimination

paul

No joy with new cam sensor, I have been checking wiring
In the ECU compartment there is a relay with some pretty hefty wiring going to it the relay does not click when ign turned on and there is no continuity across the HT side of the relay, a little difficult to test on my own.
I am presuming this is the main relay and it should turn on with the ignition ?
Can anyone confirm?

Thanks Paul

Pleased to report all sorted


Fault was the HP Pressure regulator
When I removed it the nitrile o ring was broken, surprisingly the nylon backing washer was on pretty good condition

Replacement Fitted all running good - thanks for your help all

Paul G